Considering my first GT500

[TurboV3nomVa]

I have owned a few 03-04 cobras that were built with whipples and KB blowers. It's been over ten years since I owned one. Now I am back realizing that I want another mustang. A dealership has a red 2010 GT500 with a whipple with 48k miles for 33k. Clean carfax. The walk around with closeups that the salesman sent me looks pretty much immaculate. Unfortunately the dealer has no details on the build, only what we can see under the hood. I originally wanted a '13 or '14 but they are going 50k plus right now. This car is 4 hours away from me, I'm near St Pete. What do you guys see going on under the hood? Is there any way of knowing exactly which Whipple that is? When was the last time Whipple released a blower for these cars? That would at least give me some idea of how long this car has been modified.

 

[1Kona_Venom]

Pass on the '10 and wait till you can afford a 13/14.
At a minimum, grab up an '11 or '12 w/Performance Pack
If you plan on modding at all to achieve 725rwhp, than the 13/14 is the way to go.
You will pay less on the front side for an 11/12, and on the back end you will pay $$ in mods.

From someone who has done it, the 13/14 is the better way to go.

 

[HKusp]

The 2010 is a funky year. There could be a lot of things good(and bad) going on with that car. Coming from the '03/'04 Cobras to the S197 platform is a step up in refinement for sure, bigger, better riding, a little better in the tech/creature comforts department, etc.

There '07-'10 cars can get north of 650 touching 700 RWHP REASONABLY easy, and that Whipple will support those numbers I would think. It looks like a 2.9 liter, but I could be wrong. The '13/'14 cars are the creme de la creme as far as the the better combination of refinements and power out of the gate, as Kona points out, but the 2010 can be made very stout as well. I wouldn't discount his advice, but if you really want in to the platform, you'll do it the way you see fit.

 

[TurboV3nomVa]

I totally see your point and appreciate you taking a moment to share some wisdom. I do not mind a 2010 and the iron block at all. I know that iron block is pretty reliable. I also know the 13/14 models have a lot more going for them. I have read quite a bit on them lately. If the choice was a clean stock-ish 2010 for 40-45k vs a newer one for 5-10k more (especially in grabber blue) than of course I would go newer. My thoughts were that since this car has already had work done, I would be saving money rather than dropping 55k on a clean 13/14 plus another 15 grand in work. It's not a matter of what I can afford, I run a real estate wholesaling operation so money is not a problem. It's just that I look for value when buying anything. I do not buy anything that I am going to lose much money on. I have never bought a built car without knowing most if not all that went into it, who built/tuned it and when it was done. This particular car is a bit of a mystery.

 

[HKusp]

The 10's are oddball. They have some things that are particular to that model year alone and can make it a little more challenging when sourcing parts. If money isn't an issue for you, then by all means, have at it. I would get a mechanic to go over it and if you are satisfied, take the plunge. I would call BJ at Venomous and have him tune it. He's very good with this platform.

 

[sonicx]

The value is 11/12 they can be had fairly reasonably. Will hold their value still, have wideband, better interior and tech. The value of the 13/14 is low mileage / prestige will remain high for low miles and stock kept. But as you stated, money isn’t an issue. Get a 13/14 and don’t look back.

 

[LS WUT]

My suggestion would be to follow what’s been stated above. In life you ultimately get what you pay for. I’ve learned never buy someone else’s idea of a race car. Unless it’s for documentation and such to follow up the tune, work done, and such it’s always gonna be a gamble. I’d say getting a 13/14 is always gonna be worth the money to me. Unless that car is exactly what you want then I’d buy what you want versus what’s a “good price”.

 

[LS WUT]

I’d also say that buying a “car to not lose money on” is not the best aspect. Especially not with specialty cars such as the 03/04 cobra and the GT500’s regardless of year. Unless you don’t drive it, you don’t lose money and “collect” it.

 

[2011 gtcs]

That GT500 has some nice mods under the hood, its either a Gen2/Gen3 3.4L or 4.0L whipple, it has a Fore Innovations fuel system (one of the best fuel systems to do on a GT500), open air breathers on the valve covers, so no catch cans needed. engine bay is absolutely Is immaculate, I'd guess who ever owned her took excellent care of her, do you have more pictures of it? Or the forsale ad? I'd go look the car over in person, the car might be badass and worth looking into or purchasing. Yes everyone wants a 13/14, but you can get some stupid deals on the older ones.

 

[IronTerp]

The 13/14’s are not dropping in price. They pretty much going for what they went for brand new. Not an option unless you have 55k.

I’d be weary of the Whipple. Just can’t be sure about its build or usage. Be better off getting a 2007-2012 for the price/mileage/condition/maybe mods that you’re comfortable with and then put a TVS on it.

 

[Tezz500]

I totally see your point and appreciate you taking a moment to share some wisdom. I do not mind a 2010 and the iron block at all. I know that iron block is pretty reliable. I also know the 13/14 models have a lot more going for them. I have read quite a bit on them lately. If the choice was a clean stock-ish 2010 for 40-45k vs a newer one for 5-10k more (especially in grabber blue) than of course I would go newer. My thoughts were that since this car has already had work done, I would be saving money rather than dropping 55k on a clean 13/14 plus another 15 grand in work. It's not a matter of what I can afford, I run a real estate wholesaling operation so money is not a problem. It's just that I look for value when buying anything. I do not buy anything that I am going to lose much money on. I have never bought a built car without knowing most if not all that went into it, who built/tuned it and when it was done. This particular car is a bit of a mystery.

The Iron block isn't so much the issue as is tuning I believe... there are some differences in the 2010 model year then the 07-09 and the 2011-2014.

BUT.. if your plan is the buy a car that's already done... Doesn't really matter I guess.

As for the Whipple, I'm not a Whipple guy but I THINK the Gen5 was their latest? someone confirm or squash that?

5.4 should be solidly in the 700+ range with that (if its a Gen5) easy on pump 93.

 

[1 Alibi 2]

This is an 11 with a 2.9
.

.
This is a 3.4
.


.

 

[TurboV3nomVa]

That GT500 has some nice mods under the hood, its either a Gen2/Gen3 3.4L or 4.0L whipple, it has a Fore Innovations fuel system (one of the best fuel systems to do on a GT500), open air breathers on the valve covers, so no catch cans needed. engine bay is absolutely Is immaculate, I'd guess who ever owned her took excellent care of her, do you have more pictures of it? Or the forsale ad? I'd go look the car over in person, the car might be badass and worth looking into or purchasing. Yes everyone wants a 13/14, but you can get some stupid deals on the older ones.

Thanks for all of the information. Someone else on here told me that it's a 3.4 crusher under the hood. Regardless, you can tell by the cosmetic condition of the car and the condition under the hood that someone clearly cared for the car. It's just a matter if that was the last owner or one of the other owners who did not build it and just rode it hard and kept it clean. I never said I do not buy cars solely for the purpose of not wanting to lose money. My point was that I prefer to get more value when buying a car whether it be built or not. So a car like this one would be in the high 30's or 40k plus the 15-20k in work done to it seems like a steal if everything checks out. The stripes have been deleted and the factory wheels are gone. The 2010 wheels are hideous anyways so I could care less. I know the collectable aspect of this car has diminished due to the mods, stripes delete, wheels, etc.

 

[TurboV3nomVa]

Used 2010 Ford Shelby GT500 For Sale | Miami Lakes FL | A5148454

Find the information you need to buy the perfect Honda Miami Lakes used car for your needs.

www.autonationhondamiamilakes.com

 

[HKusp]

The Iron block isn't so much the issue as is tuning I believe... there are some differences in the 2010 model year then the 07-09 and the 2011-2014.

BUT.. if your plan is the buy a car that's already done... Doesn't really matter I guess.

As for the Whipple, I'm not a Whipple guy but I THINK the Gen5 was their latest? someone confirm or squash that?

5.4 should be solidly in the 700+ range with that (if its a Gen5) easy on pump 93.

It's definitely not a Gen 5. Gen 5's have the intake in the front.

 

[1Kona_Venom]

"I bought a 2014 GT500 and wish I would have gone with the 2010."
Said no one ever

 

[Tezz500]

It's definitely not a Gen 5. Gen 5's have the intake in the front.

This is a Gen5 as well.

Whipple Ford Shelby GT500 5.4L 2007-2012 Supercharger Upgrade Kit Gen 5 3.8L Blower - TREperformance.com

Ford Mustang Whipple Supercharger sold by TREperformance, this new whipple charger system fits the Ford Mustang GT500 5.4L 2007-2012 model using the Gen 5 blower, part number WK-2525T 3.8L upgrade kit.

treperformance.com

This is a Whipple Supercharger Upgrade Kit with a Gen 5 3.8L blower setup for the 2007-2012 Ford Shelby GT500 5.4L & 5.8L which can get you 2000HP in race applications!

 

[HKusp]

This is a Gen5 as well.

Whipple Ford Shelby GT500 5.4L 2007-2012 Supercharger Upgrade Kit Gen 5 3.8L Blower - TREperformance.com

Ford Mustang Whipple Supercharger sold by TREperformance, this new whipple charger system fits the Ford Mustang GT500 5.4L 2007-2012 model using the Gen 5 blower, part number WK-2525T 3.8L upgrade kit.

treperformance.com

View attachment 1787861

This is a Whipple Supercharger Upgrade Kit with a Gen 5 3.8L blower setup for the 2007-2012 Ford Shelby GT500 5.4L & 5.8L which can get you 2000HP in race applications!

I stand corrected.Thanks for the information. That being said, I'm sticking with my assertion that it is an older generation than Gen 5. I doubt it's a Gen5 3.8 liter, as they are much more of an all-out race supercharger and aren't super streetable.

 

[LS WUT]

Used 2010 Ford Shelby GT500 For Sale | Miami Lakes FL | A5148454

Find the information you need to buy the perfect Honda Miami Lakes used car for your needs.

www.autonationhondamiamilakes.com

Ahh yes, I’ve seen this. It’s towards me. About 3 hours away. I almost looked at it when I was down there. They’re firm on price lol.

 

[HKusp]

I blew up the images the OP posted. The serial number is pretty clear. I would contact Whipple, give them that number and then, no more guessing.