Hey, not getting help in the other thread...I'm wondering what are the best cooling mods to do on the 03/04 cobras. Thanks!
StoplightWarrior said:The heat exchanger is on my list. How do I mess with the coolant reservoir. Is there an aftermarket unit?
Reducing the temp of the incoming air is NOT a cooling mod. Sure it will help reduce the chance of detonation and yes it will make more power and making more power means making MORE heat, not less.StoplightWarrior said:Hey, not getting help in the other thread...I'm wondering what are the best cooling mods to do on the 03/04 cobras. Thanks!
ShelbyGuy said:where did you eventually locate the oil cooler and oil filter mount?
got pics of it all plumbed? would you buy any fittings differently, eg., 90 deg instead of straight.....?
im not as far as you yet
that said, a fluidyne radiator and gordsford exchanger keep my car from going into limp home mode on the road course so far (with a 2.93 and temps below 80f) but engine temps still hit 250f...
Shadowgray03 said:Havent quite got to the plumbing yet, hope to do it this weekend. I will be taking pics of where everything ended up.
Your car can go into limp more for a couple reason. One is intake temps get too high and the other is coolant temps get too high. Engine coolant temps also greatly effect the AIT temps. On road courses, from what I hear its not too hard to saturate the stock intercooler system which causes IAT's to remain high and the EEC to pull timing.
Seeing as a typical mix of 70/30 (antifreeze/water) has a boiling point of approx 235F, I would be scared to death to be hitting 250F, your just asking for trouble in my book.
I guess it largely depends on where your checking your temps at. If your seeing 250F at the stock sender location you can have hot spots in your head much hotter. These hot spots create a vapor barrier and significantly reduce the transfer of heat from head surface into coolant. The vapor can also caause cavitation and such further reducing coolant flow. Your obviously happy with your setup and more power to ya. I Personally feel the $1500 in cooling mods is a small price to pay to protect my new stroker and heads and with the mods I sure as heck dont expect to see anywhere near 250f..ShelbyGuy said:why would you be scared of 250f? its only a few degrees out of the intended operating range anyway.....ford thinks 240f is high side of normal. they only care that it lasts 36,000miles anyway...and im well past that.
coolcobra said:I just completed the following cooling mods: Evans lower block inlet, 185 upper located thermostat, Fluidyne radiator, Evans hight volume water pump, remote oil cooler and filter. Royal Purple's application engineer suggest s to use 20% antifreeze, drinking water, not distilled water, and 2 bottles of the Purple Ice. They claim great results.
I plan to road race my car next week at California Speedway in Fontana. At Willow springs before the mods, I could easily hit coolant temps of 235--not good.
50 BMG said:Your opinions needed:
I am going to be running a JLT CAI, ported eaton/plenum-t/b, 2.93/6lb lower with full 3" stainelss works exhaust.
As far as engine cooling this is what I have purchased so far:
LDC cooling mod
LFP radiator when it comes out in about a week (use fluidyne as a direct substitute for now)
Canton windage tray (for whatever thats worth considering cooling)
Whatever help the headers will provide...
I think I am going to buy the following on Monday:
Evans water pump (I do not want to buy the oil relocator kit. I'd love to run the Evans T-stat kit but it seems to require the oil relocator kit, at least as it was drawn over at :http://www.modularfords.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28635 )
Do you cooling experts think this will be enough? And I live in Phoenix :nonono:
Ya I'm mostly concerned about the torque it's gonna have ;-) Already got a great deal on used (less than 300 miles on them) KB up and low control arms/coil overs/struts/ure-bushings/GKN half shafts/billetflow diff cover.LTHL VNM said:that's a pretty bold pulley combo
i would also call up mark at LFP and get the heat exchanger and reservior
racebronco2 said:the remote thermostat does not require to run their inlet .... you will need to remove the stock thermostat and put in a "t" fitting .... 1 1/2" in and out and two 3/4 lines at the "t", one is for the thermstat and the other is for your reservoir tank ..