What i have found is the ambient temps have more do do with how the cool the car runs more then anything else. You cannot compare 80* ambient temps to running close to 100* ambient temps.
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sn95Cobrakai, is the track you run is it a slower or faster track? What is the average speed?
Sirl and sn95Cobrakai, take a flashlight and shine it thru your radiator from the engine side to the front of the vehicle. If it is partially clogged you will be able to see it. My observation is that it's really bad where the grill opening and bumper opening are located. It's really clean where they is no direct airflow.
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I run several tracks;
Autobahn: 3rd and 4th gear track for me
Blackhawk Farms: 3rd primarily and 4th a bit
MKE MILE road coarse: 3rd primarily, little 2nd, some 4th
Road America: 3rd, 4th, 5th gear
I run quick at all of these, as fast as many of my friends with much more HP cars
So I don't get why I have heating problems and they don't. It isn't nearly as bad when I'm around the main traffic on track, but temps still climb when in open air.
I will check the Radiator thing as mentioned, but it's a year old so I doubt it has any issues.
I just flushed my coolant and it was clean, no gunk
Is a low temp thermostat that helpful? Is my coolant/H2o mix the issue?
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sn95Cobrakai, is the track you run is it a slower or faster track? What is the average speed?
Sirl and sn95Cobrakai, take a flashlight and shine it thru your radiator from the engine side to the front of the vehicle. If it is partially clogged you will be able to see it. My observation is that it's really bad where the grill opening and bumper opening are located. It's really clean where they is no direct airflow.
QUOTE]
I run several tracks;
Autobahn: 3rd and 4th gear track for me
Blackhawk Farms: 3rd primarily and 4th a bit
MKE MILE road coarse: 3rd primarily, little 2nd, some 4th
Road America: 3rd, 4th, 5th gear
I run quick at all of these, as fast as many of my friends with much more HP cars
So I don't get why I have heating problems and they don't. It isn't nearly as bad when I'm around the main traffic on track, but temps still climb when in open air.
I will check the Radiator thing as mentioned, but it's a year old so I doubt it has any issues.
I just flushed my coolant and it was clean, no gunk
Is a low temp thermostat that helpful? Is my coolant/H2o mix the issue?
Are you still running the a/c condenser? I doubt it's your radiator being only a year old but it could be your a/c condenser. I mix 30/70 anti freeze/water. A lower thermostat will not help since you are running around 220*. It would help on the street and cruising on the freeway. Does the car run cooler in the colder months? Do you happen to know what your a/f ratio is?
N/ANGEL had said in a previous post something to the effect that why can't her car go any faster on the autoban. She didn't want to push her car any higher rpms, she didn't want to hurt her car. Therefor it wasn't wot just maintaining the speed which wouldn't hardly be into boost.
Once the driver is up to speed they are making less boost because the driver is just maintaining the speed not still at wot. With 3.55's and a blower it's capable of speeds alot higher then 150mph.
Are you still running the a/c condenser? I doubt it's your radiator being only a year old but it could be your a/c condenser. I mix 30/70 anti freeze/water. A lower thermostat will not help since you are running around 220*. It would help on the street and cruising on the freeway. Does the car run cooler in the colder months? Do you happen to know what your a/f ratio is?
Not sure what my A/F ratio is, but I do know my long term fuel trim in lean. I had my boss run some tests cause I started having some idling issues lately which I couldn't attribute to a vacuum leak.
I think we settled on me needing a tune. Could my A/F ratio being lean really make my motor run that hot?
Temps are a key factor for sure... I'm in S. Florida... We have 8 months of 90 degree weather.
I'm heading back to Homestead end of November. It will be a little cooler, but I will be able to tell.. Also planning on having the condenser out by then...
If it doesnt run cooler then... its time for a heat extracting hole in the hood.
Not sure what my A/F ratio is, but I do know my long term fuel trim in lean. I had my boss run some tests cause I started having some idling issues lately which I couldn't attribute to a vacuum leak.
I think we settled on me needing a tune. Could my A/F ratio being lean really make my motor run that hot?
Yes it could make it run warmer then usual. Extreme heat will melt you plugs first then a piston.
Make sure you let us know in this thread so it could help others with the same problem.
Yes it could make it run warmer then usual. Extreme heat will melt you plugs first then a piston.
Yea, I replaced My plugs, they looked fine actually. I am hoping the thermostat will help lower temps, at least on the street. I am also hoping the tune will fix the rest of the problem. I know I could always put a huge air dam on and cut the hood vents into the hood, But since my friends don't have these issues I know it is possible to bring the temps down without doing going to that extreme.
Make sure you let us know in this thread so it could help others with the same problem.
Yea, I replaced My plugs, they looked fine actually. I am hoping the thermostat will help lower temps, at least on the street. I am also hoping the tune will fix the rest of the problem. I know I could always put a huge air dam on and cut the hood vents into the hood, But since my friends don't have these issues I know it is possible to bring the temps down without doing going to that extreme.
So is your friends car and yours the same? Is he slower then you on the track? So what do you think the difference is between the car's and driver's?
Two friends I am comparing to is a 600rwhp centrifugal supercharged 4.6 car. It does have a lot more straight away speed, but on the small tracks we run close...ish. He had A/C up until this year but I am comparing to before he removed the system. Runs 190 maybe sees 210* at track.
The other car which I run head to head with is a 5.0 BOSS swapped 01 GT, it's N/A, 415rwhp, but has an oil cooler and no A/C. Runs 180-190* at track
The 5.0 swap uses an aftermarket oil cooler so I can see why he runs cooler, and the 600hp 4.6 has just a lower thermostat than mine and the cylinder head cooling mod. So there isn't that much of a difference
I run with a lot of mustangs that are even closer to my setup and they rarely see temps like mine.
I am at 200* on the street, and 220-230* in traffic.
At the track I am at 220* pretty much all the time, even in open air. 240* in traffic before I make my way through the pack or pull off to cool the car/wait open air.
I just feel like something is wrong with my current setup and I want to address the issue before I move forward with the cooling system (ie; oil cooler, air dam, electric h20 pump, etc.) My goals are to run 180-190* on the street and 200* at the track which I have seen and think is possible with a close to stock setup.
Figured I'd just continue this thread rather than make another.
Couple questions regarding "Oil Cooling",
I'm looking at a kit from Canton, about 300 bucks.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ctr-22-729
Is there any reason to do a oil filter relocation as well??
Other than easier filter change, and taller filter, any other benefits?
Also, I see some "sandwich" plates have threaded holes for oil pressure, temp. gauges. If the plate doesnt have those holes, where would you plug in for pressure or temp?
OR,
Am I better just piecing a kit together? buy a sandwich plate, small radiator, AN fittings, and hoses?
Any tips would be great.
Thanks,