Crankshaft snout broke - the whole story (entertaining read)

Steeda30

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Cliffs notes:

Crankshaft snout broke off. All the valves made contact with the pistons. It's a total rebuild (save the block, rods and heads), getting -11cc pistons this time around though, so it should make a little more power. I hope to have it back in a month or so. Injected Engineering is doing the removal/re-install and tune, and Pro-Line is doing the build.


For those who have a few hours to spare, here's a good read for ya.

Everyone's crankshaft snout twists off every once in a while right? Just routine maintenance on the ol' Mustang. Now they don't make this known in the owners manual, but they reccomend everyone snap their crankshaft snout off at least once a year to ensure proper engine operation. It's a vital first step in the engine rebuild process.

A little over 3 months ago, Brad (Lankhoss) and I were conducting late night acceleration tests at the classified test facility with his vehicle and a certain 680 RWHP black GT500. Anyways, as we were returning to base, traveling up 285 in right eschelon formation, we gained visual contact on a pair of HID's making rather rapid changes in velocity - an indication that he was most likely cocky - and needed to be neutralized, so we decided to engage.

It was an E46 M5, Brad positioned himself alongside the offending vehicle and gave him a couple of blasts, demonstrating to the M5 the explosive acceleration characteristics of the Z06. The M5 attempted to maintain position alongside the Z but failed miserably as a result of his profound power defecit. I was in trail formation watching the engagement - and it was then that I decided that I needed to give the M5 a couple of neutralization blasts as well.

I reached over to my right and grabbed the gear selection lever (leever) and smartly reposition it to gear number 3, while at the same time rapidly depressing the accelerator to bring the engine up into the proper RPM's for the engagement, it was a brilliant rev match down shift followed by explosive acceleration and terrific G forces, the onset of which rendered me temporarily G-LOC'd (G induced loss of conciousness) - by the time I regained my vision, I was in proper position to engage the M5. I reselected gear 3, glanced at the gauges to assure proper engine operation and then began a WOT pull.

At the very top of 3rd gear I was met with a brief and rather unfavorable high frequency vibration throughout the driveline, shifter and pedal - I should have let out, but I didn't. I grabbed 4th and at that time I heard and felt something that I won't soon forget. It's hard to describe, it was a combination of an extremely loud BANG, and a very violent shock felt through the shifter, seat of the pants, gas pedal and steering wheel. The check engine light illuminated - I thought at that instant my engine had suffered a catastrophic failure of components. I heard what sounded very much like jingle bells under the car for a few seconds - "pistons, that's gotta be pistons and rods" I thought. Then a loud thump and bump in the car and the sound went away, it was finally quiet.

I heroically maneuvered my striken vehicle to the side of the highway, still wondering what in the hell had just happened. I instinctively grabbed my flashlight, popped the hood and began the initial inspection in hopes that I could locate the failed component(s). However, to my surprise, the component that had failed was actually no longer attatched to the vehicle! The area that the crankshaft snout and lower pulley once resided, was now barren, void of anything resembling what should have been there. Only a sliver of the crankshaft was visible potruding from the front of the timing cover. "Well shitters" I thought, "that certainly puts a damper on the fun".

Now I was on the hunt for my runaway crankshaft snout. Backtracking down the side of the highway, an 18 wheeler blew by me and then I was suddenly met with a familiar sound, jingle bells, only this time with my flashlight pointed toward the dividing wall on the opposite side I could see what was making that sound - there it was, my lower pulley was rolling down the other side of the highway, the 18 wheeler had hit it. I run over and rescue it - about that time Brad pulls up behind my car and I hold up the crank pulley "Here it is! My crankshaft snout broke!" I hollered. He looked at it and said "Wow, damn dude, ya know it works better when that stays on your car!"

Then we called the ol' tow truck and the wait began. He arrived a little over an hour later and we began positioning the Cobra for a safe ride up onto the tow truck. Of course, it rarely ever works out, and something is bound to get torn up - in my case he pulled the right side of the front bumper off along with tearing a piece of my core support on the frame (that's why you're not supposed to tow it from there) but I guess he didn't get that memo. Finally get it up on the trailer and Brad and I follow him to Pro-Line in Woodstock, where the engine was built.

The cause of the failure? Well, I had a lower pulley setup that had a hub which bolted to the harmonic balancer - sometime last year, while on vacation at the beach (Brad was there too) I started the car up one morning and heard a rhythmic knocking sound coming from the engine. I popped the hood and saw the lower pulley wobbling a lot. I drove it to a shop, which turned out to be a POS shop stuck behind what appeared to be a small junk yard, run by some little old man with a white beard named Billy.

Billy was a good ol' boy, and assured us he'd have it taken care of in a jiffy. About 3 days later he was finished with it, turned out it was only a few loose bolts that held the hub on. Billy fixed it alright, upon further inspection when I returned to Atlanta I found out he had snapped off 2 of the 3 bolts in the balancer, way to go Billy! I could write another story about the experience Brad & I had with Billy.

Anyways, I don't know how long that thing had been wobbling without making any noise, as I rarely looked at it while the engine was running. I'm thinking that may have fatigued the crankshaft. Even after it was "fixed" it still wobbled a hair. Over time that may have fatigued it enough that it just finally gave out.


Not sure why I wrote a novel about it, I just started writing and decided I'd make it entertaining, a little creative writing, how about that, lol. Maybe I did learn something in all those communication classes in college afterall!
 

KILRSVT

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mans thats tough, has to be some bucks to rebuild that engine. I still cant believe that the
snout came out the crank. Better luck with the other engine build.
 

mysteed

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Wow, sorry to hear about your misfortunes Rick. How are you gonna go get them french fried potaters and mountain dew now?
 

antiv6

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that suck big time, ive heard great things about pro-line, hope it gets fixed fast!!
 

04gtstang

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WOW that sucks :(

Apparently Billy has never heard of a little thing called torque specs :thumbsup:

Good luck on the rebuild! Glad the rest of your engine is ok...well rods and block anyways. I would have the rods checked out though before making the call to use them.
 

IronTerp

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Excellent write up! Great read.

Your sure you don't want to throw an aluminum block in there while you ahe the chance???? And how about 9:1 compression????
 

Steeda30

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:D Thanks guys.
Excellent write up! Great read.

Your sure you don't want to throw an aluminum block in there while you ahe the chance???? And how about 9:1 compression????
Well, with the -11cc pistons I think that'll put it right around 9:1.

I think they've already machined my block, but I don't guess it's too late to change my mind. I'll call 'em and see how much $ I owe them for the machine/bore of my block, if it isn't too much it might be worth it to just put an aluminum in there. How much weight would that save?

I'm putting another lower on it - I don't think that a properly installed lower will create any problems. Mine lasted for 96k and many high RPM shifts, probably in the thousands - even after it was wobbling for at least a year. I think if they're installed properly with no visible wobble, then they'll last. Just my opinion, could be wrong. I think if it was really stressing the crank as much as some people say, we'd see a lot more of them breaking.
 
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IronTerp

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I think they've already machined my block, but I don't guess it's too late to change my mind. I'll call 'em and see how much $ I owe them for the machine/bore of my block, if it isn't too much it might be worth it to just put an aluminum in there. How much weight would that save?
Should save you about 75 lbs off the front end of the car which has a HUGE affect on performance!
 

grnenvy

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Hmm

If you removed the crank support and had a lower on there thats the reason for your problems. If I was you I would go with the strongest crank made or reinstall the support back on the new motor or this could happen again. $$$$
 

68_GT

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If you removed the crank support and had a lower on there thats the reason for your problems. If I was you I would go with the strongest crank made or reinstall the support back on the new motor or this could happen again. $$$$

the support is removed with the addition of all lower pullies and is always a potential for problems.

sounds like in his case though it was loose pulley bolts that casued that failure.
 

Qwk GT

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Sorry to hear that...

I've been planning a pulley swap soon, and originally wanted a lower as well. (figure it would help now and in the future w/my twin screw or ported eaton) So you guys think it was more of an issue with the bolts being loose or the lack of the crank support.
 

Steeda30

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75lbs off the front would certainly be nice but I just can't afford to put an aluminum block in it, that's about $1,100 extra. The ~9:1 compression will be good though, I'm just guessing that's what an -11cc dish will give me, if -17 is ~8.5ish.

My lower/crank held up to who knows how many thousands of WOT shifts - it survived for 90k. I just don't think it's worth it NOT to put a lower on the car for fear that your crank is going to snap off - it's just extremely unlikely. If it's installed properly without any visible wobble, then I really think you'll be fine.

I'm double keying the crankshaft and putting another one on there. They just don't break enough to worry me, if many people were constantly breaking their cranks with a lower (not just several, but a lot) then I may worry, but that isn't the case. I think the risk has been blown out of proportion on the forums.
 
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04gtstang

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The only known cases (your the first eaton I think) are the 3.4 whipple guys running a lower....those have been known to break. I think one guy with a 2.3 whipple had a failure....but there are a TON of peeps running around with lower pullied cobras and it really seems to be isolated incidents.
I think most of those above mentioned also had manual tentioners....ie SUPER tight belt.
 

Steeda30

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Yeah I agree that it seems to be mainly twin screw guys with a manual tensioner.

I did have a notched tensioner with a very tight belt, tightest you could fit - but I don't think that alone caused it, but I'm sure it helped it along. I don't think it would have been a problem had that lower pulley not been wobbling for who knows how long without me knowing about it, prior to it knocking around at the beach. Hub bolts could have been loose for quite a while.

So the shop says they should have the engine together around Jan. 15th - hope I'll have it back by the end of Jan.
 

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