Deciding on a Clutch

Johnferris

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Still not sure what to get. Was set on spec stage 3 but now I'm not hearing great things about it. Maybe CF now.
 

Bdubbs

u even lift bro?
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Op what's your budget? Are you still rocking the 10 spline input shaft? How about TOB sleeve?
 

Jomo1994z71

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McLeod RXT twin disk end story. It drives smooth like stock and holds 1000 hp with a super light pedal. It's the best of all worlds. I had a Spec 3+, biggest piece of garbage ever. I wouldn't wish that clutch on anyone. It's brutal, chatters like a mofo for ever, has very harsh on off characteristics and ate 4 throw out bearings before I threw it in the trash.

I'm on my 3rd Ford Racing HD TOB with my Spec 3+ With steel Fw with only 15,000 miles

It grabs hard, pedal effort is same as stock but it just seems brutal. Surprised nothing has broken yet lol

I should have done it the right way and went with the McLeod Twin Disk but at the time I was scared away at the price!
Malcolm is right!
Twin disk for me in the future but I have heard from several peeps complaining about a marble whirling sound at idle with that clutch plus need for adjustable pivot ball..more research to do
 

MalcolmV8

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I'm on my 3rd Ford Racing HD TOB with my Spec 3+ With steel Fw with only 15,000 miles

It grabs hard, pedal effort is same as stock but it just seems brutal. Surprised nothing has broken yet lol

I should have done it the right way and went with the McLeod Twin Disk but at the time I was scared away at the price!
Malcolm is right!
Twin disk for me in the future but I have heard from several peeps complaining about a marble whirling sound at idle with that clutch plus need for adjustable pivot ball..more research to do

No noise at all idling. If you lug the engine like say 40 mph in 4th and lay into the gas pedal it will make a marble gurgling sound because its not a sprung hub. You shouldn't be driving like that anyways :rolling: Shorter pivot ball turned all the way down. I have a thread on here somewhere with part numbers and details. It's easy.
 

c6zhombre

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I like the ease of use of the RXT. I can utilize the clutch pedal only, no gas at all, and engage in first gear without issue or surging. Its that friendly. In the car for over 5 yrs now and has held 714/680 for that time period. Pretty "decent" I would think lol
 

Johnferris

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I can't afford the rxt right now. And clutch and shaft and all that is stock. But I'm planning to have 550 rwhp this winter. The car has just about 50 k with the stock clutch. I just bought the car a month ago.
 

MalcolmV8

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I can't afford the rxt right now. And clutch and shaft and all that is stock. But I'm planning to have 550 rwhp this winter. The car has just about 50 k with the stock clutch. I just bought the car a month ago.

Might want to look at building the foundation of the car to support the HP before cranking up the HP. When I was at the 490 whp range I twisted not one but two stock 10 spline input shafts.
 

Bdubbs

u even lift bro?
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Might want to look at building the foundation of the car to support the HP before cranking up the HP. When I was at the 490 whp range I twisted not one but two stock 10 spline input shafts.

Solid advice, upgrading the weak links first can save headaches later on.

Aftermarket diff cover, subframe connectors, 26 input shaft, and tob sleeve are a few things to consider.
 

Franco

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I think I'm gunna go with the spec 3+ thank you all for the help.

Not a bad choice. Put mine in a few months ago. Chatter after about 200 miles is almost gone. Pedal feel is awesome. Only drawback is that it is def an on off feeling
 

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