decision on engine block

[budman5023]

Hello all. I have been building my road course car and so far has been great. It started out in life as a bone stock 2004 gt. In two years I have added a mildly modified irs, big brake kit, cobra r springs struts and shocks, sway bars and camber caster plates, full interior gut, ac delete, battery relocation,t56 magnum and a kennel bell 2.1 at 7lbs of boost. On a mustang dyno I put down 390 to the wheels.
My question is I plan on making 450 to 480rwhp and I need a decision on a block to build. The heads are going to be worked on as well as some aggressive cams. Teksid, 5.0 iron, 5.3? If there is other options I am open. I was planning on low boost and high compression but don't know how much. Thanks guys

 

[badcobra]

Aluminum block for sure. Be much easier to get the balance of the car right when you can drop 80lbs+ off the front of the car. Teksid, wap, or aluminator.

 

[oldmodman]

Agreed.
Weight over the front wheels will be far more important over the long run than an extra 100 hp, especially the way out engines heat soak and pull hp anyway.
Go with a Teksid block. It is still easy to find never rebuilt, stock bore blocks for a very low price.
There is a member here that always has several in stock. He pulls them himself and checks them out for suitability. Expensive to ship though.
You can generally find them locally in nearly every junk yard out there.

 

[budman5023]

What about stroking a teksid?

 

[DHG1078]

definitely go with the teksid block. Cheap, easy to find, plenty strong, lightweight. You just have to piece together a few things from different cars, and drill a hole in it to get it all to work. If you are serious about it being a road race car, I don't know that I would have the supercharger on it.

 

[2001sleeper]

all depends on how serious you are about racing and with the KB I would assume that you are just racing for fun very few times a year. Definitely not class specific or serious.

With that said, pull your current motor, install better rods, pistons, heads, and turn up the boost a little. Cheapest route and will get you the power you want.

 

[budman5023]

The car will see time trials. On the hottest days I see 130 degrees intake temps on 100 degree days on 7# in louisiana. It will be a serious racer. I don't want to put to much boost because of higher intake heat levels. I am hoping to see 350 rwhp with n/a then 5 pounds of boost might put me in the 450 rwhp range. Or what about a modified n/a coyote motor. Can I get 500+ engine horsepower range?

 

[2013GT'ed]

It's expensive, but I ran across a 2002 gt with the trick flo top end kit on it. Hauled ass with no boost. With a higher compression build on a good 2v block, could make great power with no heat soak?

 

[budman5023]

I thought about the tfs top end kit and it is still an option but with the class I want to run, I need at least 500 engine hp. I am going to be running with some cars that weigh less than me so I can have more power. I know a fully built n/a 4.6 2 valve won't be enough but with a little boost I think it can be done reliably. So thanks guys for all the help. Looks like I will be going with a teksid block and will think about stroking it. If yall have any more advice I am open to all ideas.

 

[Torch10th]

all depends on how serious you are about racing and with the KB I would assume that you are just racing for fun very few times a year. Definitely not class specific or serious.

With that said, pull your current motor, install better rods, pistons, heads, and turn up the boost a little. Cheapest route and will get you the power you want.

This.

It sounds like you are somewhat serious about racing this car. If you intend on doing anything competitive (including time trails) you need to build the car for the class you intend to run. Right now with your modifications you would have to run in AIX within NASA even though you'd be thoroughly outgunned.

Unless your plan is to just to HPDE this vehicle (which is fine, don't get me wrong), then you'd want to pick a class you feel you can be competitive in and build for the class. In reality that may mean going back to a fairly stockish 2v motor if you're serious.

If you don't plan on competitively campaigning this car, the sky is the limit. If it was me, I'd have a big bore teskid with enough compression and cam to warrant wrapping the motor to 8000 rpm. For heat management and front end weight I'd take the blower off, sell it and use those funds to build a normally aspirated mod motor.

Make a goal, make a budget, tripple the budget and get going!

 

[Need 04 Wine]

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine...pgrade-for-2-valve-46-l-ford-modular-engines/
The trick flow comparison..unless I missed it that is on a stock motor with some good mileage. Now I would think with a fresh update and a proper piston to bump the compression a little you should be right at 500 hp all motor. Which would be hella fun.

An aluminum block would be ideal however machining costs will go up for them and a 2 valve one never existed so sourcing parts would be needed to complete swap. I think if you are going to end up with racecar weight savings could be found elsewhere, k-member, a-arms, rims, brakes, hood, battery relocate etc...

good luck
I wish we had track racing up here you guys are to lucky

 

[04azuremach]

Iron LQ9 :shrug:

 

[budman5023]

Thanks guys, a lot to consider. Money is not an issue but nastalga is. I know I could choose a better platform but there is something special about the sn95 and mod motors to me. My original plan was to build a car to compete with the cobra r but since the new Shelby gt350 came out, plans have changed towards the radical.
I know the thread got a little more detailed than just an engine block but I am glad it did. Keep in mind the track record(last year)is set by a fully built porche in the 1:42 range (2.75 mile course)and currently I am (depending on conditions)2:05 with traffic but the car has a lot more in her. I have little down force(cobra r rear spoiler), stock k member, running 275 nitto 555s, and I still have most of the original rubber in the suspension not to metion weight, so I am hopefull. If I am wrong, the journey has been a blast and this thing is a really cool and expensive toy.
Keep it coming guys. Sounds like a lot of good advise and knowledge.

 

[MFE]

This.

It sounds like you are somewhat serious about racing this car. If you intend on doing anything competitive (including time trails) you need to build the car for the class you intend to run. Right now with your modifications you would have to run in AIX within NASA even though you'd be thoroughly outgunned.

Unless your plan is to just to HPDE this vehicle (which is fine, don't get me wrong), then you'd want to pick a class you feel you can be competitive in and build for the class. In reality that may mean going back to a fairly stockish 2v motor if you're serious.

If you don't plan on competitively campaigning this car, the sky is the limit. If it was me, I'd have a big bore teskid with enough compression and cam to warrant wrapping the motor to 8000 rpm. For heat management and front end weight I'd take the blower off, sell it and use those funds to build a normally aspirated mod motor.

Make a goal, make a budget, tripple the budget and get going!

He said he wants to run NASA Time Trials which has a different class structure. He'd probably be in TTA or TTU with that setup and facing some serious competition. Best to read up on the rule book, OP, and WORK IT. Don't put anything on the car that costs you "points" unless it'll really shave time. Put the most tire width you can under it without costing you too many points. Push comes to shove you can appeal for a Dyno Re-Class where they'll have you chassis dyno the car and weigh it. Your classing will depend on the resulting power-to-weight ratio.

 

[budman5023]

OK guys, I think I might change my mind depending on what yall think. I have an opportunity to pick up a very low mile 2014 coyote out of a mustang for 3k to swap in my 04 gt. Is it possible to get 450 rwhp with just bolt ons and race gas? What is the weight difference between a stock coyote and a 4.6 teksid 2 valve with an intercooled kenne bell 2.1, fanned heat exchanger, and 3 gallon supercharger coolant tank?

 

[BJCobra99]

If I were you I would pick up that coyote motor and drop it in. That's a killer deal for 3k! Most f150 motors go for that much. 450HP you will need some mods, but remember you will lose weight compared to the iron block 2v. Throw in some 3.73's and you have a wicked, high revving track car.

 

[BJCobra99]

Here's a fun vid of a new edge GT coyote and IRS swap @ the track. Looks like a blast! http://youtu.be/SOIuAnahIBk

 

[SonicDTR]

NA Coyote all the way.

I see them in F150s at the junkyard for 1500$ pretty often.