Denali

CCS_56_EX

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
May 22, 2011
Messages
224
Location
North Kansas City, MO
Thought I’d share a few pictures from my Denali expedition. I set a goal 3 years ago to climb Denali, and finally made it happen.

Denali seen from Talkeetna, ~60 miles away

xl5XTTe.jpg


Loading up on the air taxi

NNMwrIy.jpg


Flying over massive glaciers

gfmWdNC.jpg


Setup at Denali base camp, with Foraker in the background

YFQaQKa.jpg


Looking down the Kahiltna glacier while digging a cache at 10k ft

yumx8Iw.jpg


The morning sun poking around the mountain at camp III

RMcxpg9.jpg


Climbers descending past camp III, after a successful summit

Yt4I3rm.jpg


Looking up to the fixed lines from camp IV

8bEELE5.jpg


View of Foraker from camp IV

tEHqUZA.jpg


A wind blown camp V

ZmqUcxp.jpg


The autobahn on the right, from camp V

xH1NmxI.jpg


Ascending the autobahn in cold like I’ve never experienced

X7dJqB2.jpg

The final summit ridge

0srVAay.jpg


Plaque on the summit

9oYdQ2t.jpg


View from the summit

lugSTgy.jpg


Looking down on climbers ascending the summit ridge

m0bAUIK.jpg


Descending the spine of the west buttress

9r2ihVE.jpg


Nearing base camp on the Kahiltna around 2am. This was about as dark as it got. Foraker on the right

8ZyNqKx.jpg
 

oldmachguy

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Oct 26, 2006
Messages
556
Location
Dallas
Thank you for posting these amazing pics!

If you don't mind, how old are you, how long have you been mountaineering, how did you get in shape / train for this expedition, and what group was this?

Again, simply amazing stuff.
 

CCS_56_EX

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
May 22, 2011
Messages
224
Location
North Kansas City, MO
Thank you for posting these amazing pics!

If you don't mind, how old are you, how long have you been mountaineering, how did you get in shape / train for this expedition, and what group was this?

Again, simply amazing stuff.

I’m 37 and have been mountaineering 3 years. I went with Alpine Ascents out of Seattle. Being fit is a lifestyle for me, so I didn’t do anything special to prepare for Denali, other than minimize risks as much as possible to show up to the climb healthy. This was an extremely physically demanding climb though, especially the final 3 days - the single carry move to 17, summit day, and a 15 hour death march from 17 to base camp.
 

CobraBob

Authorized Vendor
Established Member
Premium Member
Single Barrel Sirs
Joined
Nov 17, 2002
Messages
105,572
Location
Cheshire, CT
Congratulations on achieving your goal. What an awesome experience; one you'll never forget. How cold were the temperatures? How much of the climb was climbing rocks and how much was trekking through snow (albeit steep ascents). I know nothing about climbing like this. Again, congratulations!
 

CCS_56_EX

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
May 22, 2011
Messages
224
Location
North Kansas City, MO
Gorgeous shots! What wes the weather like?

We had relatively good weather all the way to 14k ft, and didn’t have to take any weather days. We heard of a few cases of frostbite on the face from other teams going around windy corner. Once we were established at 14k, the weather took a turn for the worse. A low pressure system moved in and dumped several feet of snow each day with temps usually below 0 at night. The system held us at 14k for 9 nights. Several teams felt pressure to move up to 17k, and all came back with frostbite. Temps at 17k during this time were around -25F with 50-70mph winds. It was really hard to watch them descend back to 14k, because they were obviously in trouble. When the storm moved on, the high temperature of our summit day was in the 20s. I summited with a light puffy and medium soft shell gloves, which is relatively warm for Denali.
 

CCS_56_EX

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
May 22, 2011
Messages
224
Location
North Kansas City, MO
Congratulations on achieving your goal. What an awesome experience; one you'll never forget. How cold were the temperatures? How much of the climb was climbing rocks and how much was trekking through snow (albeit steep ascents). I know nothing about climbing like this. Again, congratulations!

98% of the West buttress route is snow/ice, with crevasse danger all the way up. There are some rocks on the spine of the west buttress between 16-17k. I primarily used snow shoes until around 11k, then switched to crampons for the rest of the way.
 

Z06

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2006
Messages
2,055
Location
Belize
Damn! Glad I got to see these through pictures as I dont have the balls to do so. I'd freeze my butt off! Thanks for posting.
 

Helomech74

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2007
Messages
2,470
Location
Tennessee
Very cool. I've always wanted to climb Denali, just never had the time off to make it happen. The last trek I went on was when I was working in Pakistan and we climbed Noshaq West on the Pakistan side. We didn't make the summit due to weather (we made it 6280m, about 900m shy of the summit). They stopped expeditions into the Hindu Kush for quite sometime, but I believe they opened again. I've always wanted to go back there. The people of that region are amazing.
 

Users who are viewing this thread



Top