So I was rotating my tires on my driveway, already let the rear down, was slowly lowering the front and because this shit ****ing driveway is so rough the jack decided not to roll and the jack head slipped off the K-frame and onto the front of the sump. I'm pissed to say the least. Does anyone remember if the pickup is towards the front or back of the sump? The back is fine, the front "dropdown section" is now almost level with the front of the regular section tho :/. I'm going to see if I can get a body shop to use one of those weld-on stud pullers to pull it back out as there's no ****ing way i'm dropping my K-frame to pull the pan for this.
Dented my oil pan
- Thread starter Fopar
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My son bought a 96 Cobra (same pan) with a similar dent that we were not aware of. The car was bone stock, driven by an elderly man as a work vehicle. Obviously someone jacked it up by the pan and the guy drove it....like an old man, so never did any engine damage.
We towed it home after buying it, took it out for spirited drive and spun a bearing. Nearly $3k in engine work later.... :/
I would not run the car until you replace the pan, you may starve the engine of oil.
Well ya that ones a bit worse than mine but I do intend to get it pulled out, and I won't be driving it until then or very hard
No reputable shop is going to weld something onto an oil pan while it's still on the car. That's a fire just waiting to happen. And you definitely shouldn't be driving it at all. Just have a shop fix it properly. Why risk damaging your engine or burning your car down?
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It's an oil pan not a gas tank, its been done. Ever heard of a weld stud gun? You're not putting alot of heat in there. And because removing the entire K-frame for this shit isn't happening, and I trust no shops to do this so **** it
Your arrogance (sorry your reply to him sounds very arrogant) may get the better of you. I'm positive he's heard of a stud gun and is also very aware that things can happen especially with thin metal. No reputable shop would do that while on the car for a reason and I would encourage you to not do it either.
Take the time and do it right or your asking for trouble.
P.S. - Oil is VERY flammable as well.
P.S.S. - Be sure to jack further forward on the K-member. That will prevent that from happening as the bump in the K-member will serve as a stop.
Take the time and do it right or your asking for trouble.
P.S. - Oil is VERY flammable as well.
P.S.S. - Be sure to jack further forward on the K-member. That will prevent that from happening as the bump in the K-member will serve as a stop.
I swear your car is cursed man.
That's the big reason to do it right. You have no idea what was done to the pickup. It's really not that big of a deal to drop the k-member enough to swap oil pans. I'd consider this time to upgrade the pan if I were in your shoes.
That was my reason for recommending NOT to do that. Oil is very flammable. Oil vapor is extremely flammable. An oil pan is, what, 1/16" thick, if that? Welding with it on the car is just asking for trouble.
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Get and engine support bar at Harbor Frieght. You can drop the k in a couple hours.
Bingo.
As said above go to Harbor Freight and get an engine support bar. Here's what you need.
http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html
It's fixed, pulled it back out with a slide hammer and some welding. For reference oil isn't super flammable and you need oxygen for one. We left the oil in the pan for this reason as a thin layer is worse than a full pan. That said my buddy had the mig voltage set too high and literally the first tack blew a hole in the pan... out all the oil went with no flame.
Drained the pan blew it out with air, set the mig real low and proceded to weld 3 different pieces on in 3 spots, pulled it out with a slide hammer, buddy welded the hole back up with a tig, carefully ground all the pieces off sanded it and re-painted the aarea. The only side-effect was the tig damaged my radio and now it's fuzzy (oh well it was a shitty jensen unit).
I disconnected my ECU tho so no issues there. So for reference you can weld on a pan in the car it's not the end of the world, and I saved a bunch of time and hassle by not having to pull the ****ing K-frame. We did have a garden hose and extinguisher close for obvious safety reasons.
P.S I have a engine support frame, the very first thing I did when I bought the car was drop the oil pan (old motor spun a rod bearing). I dropped the K to pull the old engine, dropped it again to put the new one in. I'm ****ing done pulling the K, I don't have enough space, time or even equipment (half my tools are stored at my dads house).
Drained the pan blew it out with air, set the mig real low and proceded to weld 3 different pieces on in 3 spots, pulled it out with a slide hammer, buddy welded the hole back up with a tig, carefully ground all the pieces off sanded it and re-painted the aarea. The only side-effect was the tig damaged my radio and now it's fuzzy (oh well it was a shitty jensen unit).
I disconnected my ECU tho so no issues there. So for reference you can weld on a pan in the car it's not the end of the world, and I saved a bunch of time and hassle by not having to pull the ****ing K-frame. We did have a garden hose and extinguisher close for obvious safety reasons.
P.S I have a engine support frame, the very first thing I did when I bought the car was drop the oil pan (old motor spun a rod bearing). I dropped the K to pull the old engine, dropped it again to put the new one in. I'm ****ing done pulling the K, I don't have enough space, time or even equipment (half my tools are stored at my dads house).
More like I'm cursed...
I jacked in the correct spot, the ****ing jack didn't roll because of this shitty rough driveway, so when it swung down (and forward) it pushed off the back of the K... won't be making that mistake again. I've been playing with cars for 15+ years and I've always jacked in the same spot on K-frames of cars, never had it slip off the back once (I've had them slip foward a little if they didn't grab the back edge)
Since you're not in a rustbelt state, and I am assuming this isn't a daily driver, your repair is fine. The spots where you spot welded will rust out prematurely, but that is like 20 years from now. I would have changed the oil pan, but I have a hoist and the tools and the time.
You got lucky. Unused oil is more difficult to ignite. Oil that's been tainted with gasoline is flammable. Oil vapor is highly flammable. I'd be interested to know how much time you really saved after you include cleaning up the oil spill, patching the hole, grinding off the welds, and painting it. Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the K-member attached by only 4 bolts; 8 if you include the A-arm bolts?
Okay, so you got the dent pulled out, great. But.....you still don't know if the pickup was/is damaged. Sorry, you should have followed the advice the majority gave you, and dropped the K-member to replace/upgrade the oil pan. That would have been your best option. You've worked on cars for 15+ years, and quite honestly I'm surprised you're apparently not the least bit concerned about the condition of the oil pickup.
Oil isn't that flammable. Putting red hot steel in oil is a way of hardening the steel and the oil doesn't explode in a ball of fire. Often times theres just smoke and no fire at all especially if its a large amount of oil. The fire usually starts when a heated item breaks the surface because theres more oxygen, and only a thin layer of oil.
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