Detailed car, not completely happy with results

[black5.0]

I detailed my black '11 5.0 a few weekends ago and after washing it a week afterward I wasn't completely happy with the results for how much time I spent on it.

I detailed it using these steps:
1. Clayed using Mother's clay bar and spray, wiped off with supplied microfiber towel
2. Used Meguiars M105 with LCC Orange pad and Griot's Garage random orbital on speed 5
3. Followed with Meguiars M205 with LCC White pad on speed 4 or 5
4. Followed with Meguiars professional yellow wax with LCC black pad on speed 2
5. Finished with Blackfire wet diamond with LCC black pad on speed 2

After I was done I noticed very few of the circular scratches, or "swirls" but a few deeper scratches here and there, I had to really look to find them.

After washing the car the circular scratches on the hood are a little more noticable, and I'm having a hard time getting the black trim pieces completely black in some parts. I used 3M blue tape on the trim pieces while buffing/waxing, but it left some residue behind, and some areas I guess I got a little crazy with the random orbital because there is wax on the trim pieces too.

Should I have used a different product? different pad? I read quite a few posts on here and other sites before I started, and these products/pad combinations seemed to be the most common for what I was trying to fix. Granted, to anyone just walking by and looking at the car, they probably can not notice what I'm seeing, but I'm kind of a perfectionist when it comes to my cars and I'd like the paint to look smooth as glass with no swirls and minimal scratches. I understand that some of the scratches and rock chips I have on a black car will not go away.

I'll post some pictures when I can, car is a little dusty right now, car has been in the garage since it decided to rain for a week straight here.

 

[luke1333]

I detailed my black '11 5.0 a few weekends ago and after washing it a week afterward I wasn't completely happy with the results for how much time I spent on it.

I detailed it using these steps:
1. Clayed using Mother's clay bar and spray, wiped off with supplied microfiber towel
2. Used Meguiars M105 with LCC Orange pad and Griot's Garage random orbital on speed 5
3. Followed with Meguiars M205 with LCC White pad on speed 4 or 5
4. Followed with Meguiars professional yellow wax with LCC black pad on speed 2
5. Finished with Blackfire wet diamond with LCC black pad on speed 2

After I was done I noticed very few of the circular scratches, or "swirls" but a few deeper scratches here and there, I had to really look to find them.

After washing the car the circular scratches on the hood are a little more noticable, and I'm having a hard time getting the black trim pieces completely black in some parts. I used 3M blue tape on the trim pieces while buffing/waxing, but it left some residue behind, and some areas I guess I got a little crazy with the random orbital because there is wax on the trim pieces too.

Should I have used a different product? different pad? I read quite a few posts on here and other sites before I started, and these products/pad combinations seemed to be the most common for what I was trying to fix. Granted, to anyone just walking by and looking at the car, they probably can not notice what I'm seeing, but I'm kind of a perfectionist when it comes to my cars and I'd like the paint to look smooth as glass with no swirls and minimal scratches. I understand that some of the scratches and rock chips I have on a black car will not go away.

I'll post some pictures when I can, car is a little dusty right now, car has been in the garage since it decided to rain for a week straight here.

What soap are you using?

Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2

 

[Tispho]

Please look up the Kevin Brown Method. Sounds to me like you are not using 205 and LC white long enough to remove the scratches caused by 105 and Orange.

You really won't be a perfectionist till you learn to use a Rotary and diminishing abrasives Like Menzerna po85rd or po85u to jewel the paint. You can also jewel with an d/a, but I find in the right hands. Rotary will always finish nicer.

If you do not know how to use rotary. You will get worst results than if you were just to use a D/A.

If you got polish on your hard plastic. You need to purchase GR-40 trim cleaner, it is an extremely basic (on pH scale) chemical that will remove wax and compounds from hard plastic.

 

[John@Lethal]

You've got the right combo and pads. Your technique could be off and as mentioned, look up the KB method and make sure your process is on par with that. Another trick of the trade is to take a permanent marker, and make a line on the back of the backing pad. This way you can see if the pad is still spinning and you're not applying too much pressure.

Give it another shot with a clean, or fresh set of pads. If you want to give the hydrotech pads a shot, which are generally easy to use, give me a shout. We've got them in stock here:

DA Polisher Buffing Pads and Accessories

More than likely, you had debris in the pads, or on the surface of the paint.


Also, which is unrelated to the swirls, you applied wax first, and then the sealant. It's actually the other way around. Apply the sealant, let it cure, and then apply the wax.

 

[flamed03vert]

The marker trick John mentioned works. You should be maintianing constant pressure on the pad but not so much that is doesn't spin. The little sharpie check mark allows you to do that. Also it sounds like you got in a rush. If you got the trim with it taped you got too close to the trim. The product got under it of the trim has some protectant on it where the tape didn't stick. You should inspect as you go, which is why you missed the RIDS you left behind and now in the right light you can see them. Lighting is you friend. And one last thing, why put down BFWD over carnuba? Seems like a bonding problem waiting to happen there. I always do sealant first, allow to cure and then top with carnuba.

 

[myblackgt]

what everyone else said.. crank it up to speed 6 too.

 

[42RCODE]

Always put sealant on before wax and let the sealant cure 12-18 hours before topping with wax.

 

[soccerman002]

Was going to chime in but anything I would have said was already covered.

For someone just starting out, black paint is a double-edged sword - one one hand, there isn't a color out there that is going to show imperfections more, so if you can get good results on black paint, you're ahead of the curve IMO. On the other hand, don't let black paint frustrate you to where you're beating yourself up about it - picking the right products and pad combos takes time, no one in here learned overnight.

Post up some pics when you can.

 

[Screamin Cobra]

Always put sealant on before wax and let the sealant cure 12-18 hours before topping with wax.

+1 :coolman:

 

[black5.0]

What soap are you using?

I'm using Meguiars gold class shampoo and conditioner

You've got the right combo and pads. Your technique could be off and as mentioned, look up the KB method and make sure your process is on par with that. Another trick of the trade is to take a permanent marker, and make a line on the back of the backing pad. This way you can see if the pad is still spinning and you're not applying too much pressure.

Give it another shot with a clean, or fresh set of pads. If you want to give the hydrotech pads a shot, which are generally easy to use, give me a shout. We've got them in stock here:

DA Polisher Buffing Pads and Accessories

More than likely, you had debris in the pads, or on the surface of the paint.


Also, which is unrelated to the swirls, you applied wax first, and then the sealant. It's actually the other way around. Apply the sealant, let it cure, and then apply the wax.

I'll try the marker technique.

I thought I read somewhere that the sealant goes over the wax, I guess I had that backward. When I get some free time on a weekend, probably when the school semester is over I'll have a go at it again. Should I remove the waxes I put on the paint before trying again with some sort of method? Or just start over again as is?

I'll post some pictures this weekend after I wash it, it's dusty right now.

Thanks for the replies

 

[shad2009]

tape off one section and work that section till it's perfect to you, then do that same process on the rest of the car

 

[luke1333]

I'm using Meguiars gold class shampoo and conditioner

that might strip off wax and let scratches come back. but i dont know. anybody know?

 

[black5.0]

that might strip off wax and let scratches come back. but i dont know. anybody know?

If so I'm open to using something else, I have something in the garage, I'll go see what it is in a bit.

 

[encasedmetal]

just use a good dish detergent soap- it'll take all substances off the paint for a fresh start.

 

[Bruha]

Though my experience, pad size can make a difference. Larger pads don't build enough heat. I also have a black car. I finally went with a 4" pad and was very deliberate with my speed. Use the buffer on speed 6. I think doing smaller areas would help too. The Meg. 105 is great, but I think it starts to dry up to quick. Do a smaller area, with a 4" pad and get at least 6 alternating passes. Should do the trick for you. Might just be moving to fast with a pad that is too big. Not enough heat.

 

[John@Lethal]

Though my experience, pad size can make a difference. Larger pads don't build enough heat. I also have a black car. I finally went with a 4" pad and was very deliberate with my speed. Use the buffer on speed 6. I think doing smaller areas would help too. The Meg. 105 is great, but I think it starts to dry up to quick. Do a smaller area, with a 4" pad and get at least 6 alternating passes. Should do the trick for you. Might just be moving to fast with a pad that is too big. Not enough heat.

It's not the pad that doesn't build heat, but the machine not being able to spin the larger pads fast enough to create the friction needed. Not sure if that's what you mean, but just clarifying.

5.5 inch pads seem to be the sweet spot for most compounds when using a machine like the porter cable. Only time you should consider a larger pad is when you're spreading waxes or sealants and don't need to break down abrasives.

 

[Bruha]

You explained it better. That's what I was trying to explain.I think the smaller pads are easier on the cobra too. Seems like the bigger pads are a plain to get around everywhere.

It's not the pad that doesn't build heat, but the machine not being able to spin the larger pads fast enough to create the friction needed. Not sure if that's what you mean, but just clarifying.

5.5 inch pads seem to be the sweet spot for most compounds when using a machine like the porter cable. Only time you should consider a larger pad is when you're spreading waxes or sealants and don't need to break down abrasives.