4.10's will still let you wind 4th out to 125 or so. Higher than that isn't smart on the street anyways. I'm in between 4.30's and 4.56's.
:lol: try doing a roll run in 456s and see what happens
4.10's will still let you wind 4th out to 125 or so. Higher than that isn't smart on the street anyways. I'm in between 4.30's and 4.56's.
:lol: try doing a roll run in 456s and see what happens
little update..... ( not much )
i have started trying to find something wrong... checked oil, checked plugs, cleaned filter, reset ecu, changed coil packs. nothing so far....
i have noticed that my firewall adjuster seems to loosen up... doesnt quite hold the position i want.... could this effect the acceleration that much? i figured if anything it would effect normal driving. honestly, my clutch engages up toooo high and doesnt feel quite right.... in what direction would i turn the adjuster to make it engage and disengage closer to the floor?
i have searched on this and nothing quite explains proper adjustement. just the need for proper adjustment....
na svt,
lol i guess that is the only way to do maintenance..... maybe i should have proof read my post. after reading that, i realize its an odd statement :shrug:
:lol: try doing a roll run in 456s and see what happens
I don't really roll race. If I do it's from a slow roll.
i enjoy all kinds of racing..... unfortunately, roll racing is most of what goes on here... and i dont do it much... but i can feel my car is not 100%. even when i race, i really dont think i exceed 115... that by no means is ok either...
i should be doing a compression test tomorrow at some point....
question, can i have coil packs that are not working properly but no apparent symptoms? acceleration feels smooth at w.o.t. but, decel has a weird sputter and gas mileage is completly shot!!! i just put half a tank of gas in the other day and only got roughly 65 city miles.... normal driving ( 2 w.o.t. runs from 2nd through 3rd)
Counter clock wise should lower the clutch engagement. The further out you turn the adjuster the closer to the floor it will be. ( I'm almost positive)
i want this fixed!!!
:lol:**** all that bolt-on nonsense. Call Hellion and order a single turbo kit.
The 3.55s are killing him, he's gonna need gears regardless of the tye of racing he does (roll racing is for sissys). I agree with the statement above, there's no need to go over 125 on the roads.
You make me laugh:lol: Steeper gears allow the engine to get into the rpm range where the engine makes power, but there's a fine line between keeping the engine in the powerband too long and not long enough.you might know engines but you dont know gears.. gears only help cars from a dig with suspension set up to transfer weight.. for a roll on a stock cammed car stock gears are best..
You make me laugh:lol: Steeper gears allow the engine to get into the rpm range where the engine makes power, but there's a fine line between keeping the engine in the powerband too long and not long enough.
A general statement like "for a roll on a stock cammed car stock gears are best" would not be factual as there are many factors which determine the best gear for a race that begins with a roll;
1) mph at the start of the race
2) rpm at the start of the race
3) the engine's hp and tq curves
4) weight of the car
5) tire diameter
6) transmission gear ratios
and so on...
Racing from a 40mph roll to 100 may have a totally different gear requirement.
Your data provides a real world example and is soem good data (despite the fact that it was gotten on a public road), but it doesn't suit all or even 90% of the Mach's and Cobra's.