Dynatech LT's

[Yellow Horse]

I finished my install, after finishing I ordered a set of obstruction wrenches basically shaped like a C. If these allow you to access to the 2 lower middle bolts on the drivers side then I wouldn't waste my time dropping the K-member. Those two bolts require about 3hrs of dicking around to tighten and are the only real problem on the entire install. If the wrench doesn't work then I would go the K-member route and remove the motor mount on drivers side. The only problem is after a few heating and cooling cycles you want to recheck the bolts again. If you can wait till march 28th I will give you a heads up on the wrench deal, and this way you will know the best route to go.

I'm willing to do more work for less aggravation. Also, I know of too many that have cross threaded bolts/studs because they are hard to get to. I know when I dropped the first KM on an SN-95 Cobra is was like Moses parting the Red Sea. I had the stock logs off in 15 minutes. Even with the KM there are a few that are hard where the tube bends right over the head of the bolt. I looked over the KM a little. It does not cover up the bottom of the engine like the cheap ass punched out sheet metal one on the SN-95's but there's a lot more to it the way it bolts to the chassis and the suspension. It looks like it may be tougher lining it back up unless the holes are so tight it bolts back into position.

Does anyone know if you can lift the front of the car lifting in the middle of the KM and the rear under the punkin?

 

[Bulldogger]

I'm willing to do more work for less aggravation. Also, I know of too many that have cross threaded bolts/studs because they are hard to get to. I know when I dropped the first KM on an SN-95 Cobra is was like Moses parting the Red Sea. I had the stock logs off in 15 minutes. Even with the KM there are a few that are hard where the tube bends right over the head of the bolt. I looked over the KM a little. It does not cover up the bottom of the engine like the cheap ass punched out sheet metal one on the SN-95's but there's a lot more to it the way it bolts to the chassis and the suspension. It looks like it may be tougher lining it back up unless the holes are so tight it bolts back into position.

Does anyone know if you can lift the front of the car lifting in the middle of the KM and the rear under the punkin?

Cross threading bolts won't be an issue. When the factory exhaust comes out you will place the four bottom bolts in by hand to hold the gasket in place. The bottm of the header is C cut so the header drops onto the for bolts, they aren't holes like the top. I don't really think dropping the K-member is going to make that much of a difference. It is just the header tube bend in relation to the bolt head that creates the problem.

 

[Yellow Horse]

Cross threading bolts won't be an issue. When the factory exhaust comes out you will place the four bottom bolts in by hand to hold the gasket in place. The bottm of the header is C cut so the header drops onto the for bolts, they aren't holes like the top. I don't really think dropping the K-member is going to make that much of a difference. It is just the header tube bend in relation to the bolt head that creates the problem.

I know better to argue with someone who has done something.

Do you think lifting the engine with a jack and maybe rolling it over will help?