We'll see Big Daddy! LOL Remember you are teaching me everything I know.
Dyno numbers
- Thread starter vols fan
- Start date
We'll see Big Daddy! LOL Remember you are teaching me everything I know.
It is an exact swap nothing needed at all, you will even reuse your stock valve cover gaskets.
Come get some boy! I'll send you back home with a "just pumped the neighbors cat" look on your face:banana:
We'll see whats up in a few months :rockon:
are your numbers rwhp????
Yes.
oh then thats pretty good i want to do cams this upcoming july or june
i want to push 400rwhp atleast thats my goal without any power adder
i want to push 400rwhp atleast thats my goal without any power adder
"Try to snatch the pebble from my hand, grasshopper"
What about avaitor cams... Would those be just as good?
I'm not sure about those cams. Troy do you have any idea if those will provide any gains?
Aviator cams are the same as stock Mach 1 cams, see below;
Mach 1, 03/04 Cobra, Aviator, Marauder, Navigator
Intake: 184 deg @ .050/.397" lift Exhaust: 196 deg @ .050/.397" lift
114 LCs
96-98 Cobra
intake PN#s
F6ZE-6A270-AB crosses to F6ZZ-6250-AA
F6ZE-6A271-AB crosses to F6ZZ-6250-BA
Intake: 204 deg @.050/ .397 lift
Exhaust: 196 deg @.050/.397 lift
114/114 LCs
99/01 Cobra
Intake: 200 deg @.050/.397 lift
Exhaust: 196 deg @.050/.397 lift
114 LCs
FR500 (M-6550-T46)
intake: 212 deg @.050 /.472 lift
exhaust: 208 deg @.050 /.472 lift
109 LCs
GT Cams: (actual as tested numbers, not Ford specs)
Intake: 189 @ .050"/.424 lift
Exhaust: 190 @ .050"/.448" lift
The centerline is up for debate as this set tested at 122/118 but I think Ford states the LCs as 114/114
Cobra R specs:
Intake: .515'' lift 212 deg dur @.050
Exhaust: .468'' lift 212 deg dur @.050
Mach 1, 03/04 Cobra, Aviator, Marauder, Navigator
Intake: 184 deg @ .050/.397" lift Exhaust: 196 deg @ .050/.397" lift
114 LCs
96-98 Cobra
intake PN#s
F6ZE-6A270-AB crosses to F6ZZ-6250-AA
F6ZE-6A271-AB crosses to F6ZZ-6250-BA
Intake: 204 deg @.050/ .397 lift
Exhaust: 196 deg @.050/.397 lift
114/114 LCs
99/01 Cobra
Intake: 200 deg @.050/.397 lift
Exhaust: 196 deg @.050/.397 lift
114 LCs
FR500 (M-6550-T46)
intake: 212 deg @.050 /.472 lift
exhaust: 208 deg @.050 /.472 lift
109 LCs
GT Cams: (actual as tested numbers, not Ford specs)
Intake: 189 @ .050"/.424 lift
Exhaust: 190 @ .050"/.448" lift
The centerline is up for debate as this set tested at 122/118 but I think Ford states the LCs as 114/114
Cobra R specs:
Intake: .515'' lift 212 deg dur @.050
Exhaust: .468'' lift 212 deg dur @.050
So if he could find some 99/01 Cobra cams that would still be a huge step in the right direction?
Yes sir!
98 cobra cams
Do you just put them in or is there like a degreeing procedure you have to do?? to install them?? im halfway mechanically inclined i changed my own clutch and tranny is it that hard or easier?? any special tools?? and why is this such a secret you dont see many people do this why not??? Just a few questions for you guys
Do you just put them in or is there like a degreeing procedure you have to do?? to install them?? im halfway mechanically inclined i changed my own clutch and tranny is it that hard or easier?? any special tools?? and why is this such a secret you dont see many people do this why not??? Just a few questions for you guys
Me and PCPRO both just put them in our cars straight up, no degreeing. They are not super hard to put in just time consuming. The drivers side valve cover takes some doing to get off because of the hydraboost being in the way. You just have to be careful about keeping the chains and spockets in line with one another. I would suggest you have someone there to help you that has some experience with mods motors just for added support. I guess most people don't do it because they either don't know about the gains or don't want to pay the price for having them changed, it would be expensive to have done at a shop.
Does the engine need to be dropped for the valve covers to come out? Can the hydroboost be taken out?
It dosen't need to come out. It just needs to be takrn loose and slide as far to the right as possible. Then you may have to loosen the k-member and pull the motor to the left.
Lol I see why its rarely done now. All that for 10-15rwhp. Hmm.
Good luck. I hope you have a fat wallet. at you'll 'most likely' need a stroker.
Yes they should be degreed in order for them to be 'properly' timed.
Last I heard pcpro was going to have the degreed later. Maybe he changed his mind.
If they are not degreed they won't be properly timed. Maybe that's for some people, but if you're willing to go through all of that for a tad of HP, you should get the max. you can and have them degreed. YOu could be off a few HP from not doing it.
Yep...and a drop in TQ in the lower PB if no other mods are done.
Hey if you like working on your car and trying to learn new things then go ahead and doit. If you don't have the ability or the cash to pay someone then leave it alone. I'm not trying to be a d**k but thats what it boils down to. No I haven't degree my cams but do I think I wasted my time, NO. Out of all my mods that one was the best "seat of the pants" feel. I'm sure that there are a few more hp's in degreeing them but that is for guys who really know what they are doing, I ain't that good. I didn't say the k-member had to come out it just MAY need to be loosened, it has 6 bolts. I think for the time and money it was a good mod and I'm pretty sure PCPRO will agree.
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