Hello,
I'm currently awaiting the 2012 Ford Focus ST. I want to buy performance parts just like the next but I DO not want to stripe it of reliability AKA 500 hp rolling time bomb. I understand most cars from the factory run a bit rich. So here are my questions.
1. If I add an intake, exhaust to a turbo will these lean it out? Lean it to much?
2. If it does lean it to much, how to I counter that?
3. Are programmers safe? Like this Custom-Tuned Handheld Programmer | 2010 - 2011 Flex Ecoboost | Hennessey Performance
4. How does a programmer increase boost levels? The above programmer says from 11 lbs to 13.5. Is boost simply controlled by the computer Or is it a manual switch or pulley exchange?
5. Will performance parts push the engine towed detenonation? If so what all contours this?
6. If the ST does not have an intecooler, what will be the benefits of adding one? Cooler air to allow for more boost?
7. What exactly is boost pressure?
8. If I bought an ST my mods would be. Intake, programmer, intecooler, header, mid pipe, cat back. What kind of trouble will I run into?
Below is a note my friend sent me. Is he on par an turbo's suck? To get a back ground on my friend is a chevy guy. Ohv rear wheel drive only kind of guy. To him front wheel drive suck, OHC are heavy motors compared to LS motors.
"The thing about electronic tuners is they are a stand-alone 'bolt-on'. In general, they do things: advance the ignition curve, and lean the fuel map. This will add power and throttle response every time. Some have extra gadgets like check engine light clearance, or a display for vehicle sensor readings, but the ignition and fuel is about all most will change.
*
The problem is, especially with positive pressure engines at high rpm operation, is risk of detonation, spark knock, or overheating* pistons, all of which end in one spectacular result--boom. The real problem is when people make several bolt-on upgrades, such as exhaust or intake, increasing air flow. This alone naturally leans the air/fuel ratio, and the extra affect of the computer chip/tuner makes it worse. Guys actually sometimes lose track time when the combination just isn't compatible.
*
If you buy 5 parts that advertise 15 hp gains each, the end result isn't 75 hp. The best thing you can do is invest just a little more money and buy a laptop based software, like HP Tuners, and have the ability to change settings as you change the vehicle. The $300 for the plug-n-play stuff is a waste in the long-term, and may cause more problems if you just click power level three and floor it.
*
Or you could buy an old-school V8, a Holley double-pumper and Hooker headers, and call it a day."
I'm currently awaiting the 2012 Ford Focus ST. I want to buy performance parts just like the next but I DO not want to stripe it of reliability AKA 500 hp rolling time bomb. I understand most cars from the factory run a bit rich. So here are my questions.
1. If I add an intake, exhaust to a turbo will these lean it out? Lean it to much?
2. If it does lean it to much, how to I counter that?
3. Are programmers safe? Like this Custom-Tuned Handheld Programmer | 2010 - 2011 Flex Ecoboost | Hennessey Performance
4. How does a programmer increase boost levels? The above programmer says from 11 lbs to 13.5. Is boost simply controlled by the computer Or is it a manual switch or pulley exchange?
5. Will performance parts push the engine towed detenonation? If so what all contours this?
6. If the ST does not have an intecooler, what will be the benefits of adding one? Cooler air to allow for more boost?
7. What exactly is boost pressure?
8. If I bought an ST my mods would be. Intake, programmer, intecooler, header, mid pipe, cat back. What kind of trouble will I run into?
Below is a note my friend sent me. Is he on par an turbo's suck? To get a back ground on my friend is a chevy guy. Ohv rear wheel drive only kind of guy. To him front wheel drive suck, OHC are heavy motors compared to LS motors.
"The thing about electronic tuners is they are a stand-alone 'bolt-on'. In general, they do things: advance the ignition curve, and lean the fuel map. This will add power and throttle response every time. Some have extra gadgets like check engine light clearance, or a display for vehicle sensor readings, but the ignition and fuel is about all most will change.
*
The problem is, especially with positive pressure engines at high rpm operation, is risk of detonation, spark knock, or overheating* pistons, all of which end in one spectacular result--boom. The real problem is when people make several bolt-on upgrades, such as exhaust or intake, increasing air flow. This alone naturally leans the air/fuel ratio, and the extra affect of the computer chip/tuner makes it worse. Guys actually sometimes lose track time when the combination just isn't compatible.
*
If you buy 5 parts that advertise 15 hp gains each, the end result isn't 75 hp. The best thing you can do is invest just a little more money and buy a laptop based software, like HP Tuners, and have the ability to change settings as you change the vehicle. The $300 for the plug-n-play stuff is a waste in the long-term, and may cause more problems if you just click power level three and floor it.
*
Or you could buy an old-school V8, a Holley double-pumper and Hooker headers, and call it a day."
