Electrical question

[Speedylifsavr]

Did you check to see if you can shut that breaker off ?? It looks like that breaker handle strap can prevent the breaker from tripping or shutting off.

Yes....i turned off the hot water heater . And then turned off both breakers , plugged in the welder , turned it on then flipped the breaker back on so I could be near the panel should any issues arise......but all was well . The metal straps allow for both breakers to be turned off at once , they dont prevent it from tripping .

Uh I am speechless about your panel...lol

The house was built in 73 so it could use some revamping . It passed 2 inspections in the last 5 years.....never had any issues .

 

[BLWN DSG]

You need a 35amp 2 pole breaker. Any less you may throw the nreaker. If the breaker doesn't trip you may melt the wires...or start a fire.

29A at peak power . I'm welding 1/8" weld steel to reinforce the frame of the golf cart I'm building . I've been welding all morning on a lower setting (which is all thats required) with no issues .

Thanks to all who responded!!

The house was built in 73 so it could use some revamping . It passed 2 inspections in the last 5 years.....never had any issues .

I think you are lucky that it is running with the 30 amp breaker. Code calls for a 40 amp to feed it. 29A * 125% = 36A, you round up. I would install a 40A/2P breaker and feed it that way...the electrical system in your house is not something you want to half ass. It passed inspection because it has been grandfathered in. It meets the standards of 1973 but willing to bet no where near meeting standards of current NEC. Situation you are flirting with right now is burning up the wires and causing a fire hazard in your home. You are lucking if the contractor who built the house installed the right size wire for a 30A service, now you are running a machine that requries a 40A service...you are now drawing more current on that wire than it can handle...that means heat and breakdown of insulation of the wire. Breakdown of insulation can cause arcing which will cause fire and/or short circuit. A bad short circuit can cause the to blow if not properly coordinated, back in 1973 I doubt it was for residential. A arch flash is something that is extremely dangerous!!! An arc flash is hot enough to vaporize metal within fractions of a fraction of a second!!! It is your call but I would definetly NOT BE DOING THAT IN MY HOUSE. Hell I would never even do that in someone elses house who I can't stand! Ultimately your call though.

Uh I am speechless about your panel...lol

I thought the same thing till I saw where he said it was built in '73.

 

[Speedylifsavr]

I think you are lucky that it is running with the 30 amp breaker. Code calls for a 40 amp to feed it. 29A * 125% = 36A, you round up. I would install a 40A/2P breaker and feed it that way...the electrical system in your house is not something you want to half ass. It passed inspection because it has been grandfathered in. It meets the standards of 1973 but willing to bet no where near meeting standards of current NEC. Situation you are flirting with right now is burning up the wires and causing a fire hazard in your home. You are lucking if the contractor who built the house installed the right size wire for a 30A service, now you are running a machine that requries a 40A service...you are now drawing more current on that wire than it can handle...that means heat and breakdown of insulation of the wire. Breakdown of insulation can cause arcing which will cause fire and/or short circuit. A bad short circuit can cause the to blow if not properly coordinated, back in 1973 I doubt it was for residential. A arch flash is something that is extremely dangerous!!! An arc flash is hot enough to vaporize metal within fractions of a fraction of a second!!! It is your call but I would definetly NOT BE DOING THAT IN MY HOUSE. Hell I would never even do that in someone elses house who I can't stand! Ultimately your call though.



I thought the same thing till I saw where he said it was built in '73.

Hey man ....I appreciate the response . It would never be my intention to cause a fire in my house . I guess I didnt really realize the magnitude or potential for disaster until you laid it out there . I'm going to get an electrician over here and have him give everything a once over .

And no more welding....:bash:

 

[FL-Orange]

I think you are lucky that it is running with the 30 amp breaker. Code calls for a 40 amp to feed it. 29A * 125% = 36A, you round up. I would install a 40A/2P breaker and feed it that way...the electrical system in your house is not something you want to half ass. It passed inspection because it has been grandfathered in. It meets the standards of 1973 but willing to bet no where near meeting standards of current NEC. Situation you are flirting with right now is burning up the wires and causing a fire hazard in your home. You are lucking if the contractor who built the house installed the right size wire for a 30A service, now you are running a machine that requries a 40A service...you are now drawing more current on that wire than it can handle...that means heat and breakdown of insulation of the wire. Breakdown of insulation can cause arcing which will cause fire and/or short circuit. A bad short circuit can cause the to blow if not properly coordinated, back in 1973 I doubt it was for residential. A arch flash is something that is extremely dangerous!!! An arc flash is hot enough to vaporize metal within fractions of a fraction of a second!!! It is your call but I would definetly NOT BE DOING THAT IN MY HOUSE. Hell I would never even do that in someone elses house who I can't stand! Ultimately your call though.

Wouldn't the 125% only be appropriate for a continuos load like lighting or A/C equipment? I thought he listed the MOP at 35A.

Edit: Just looked, yes 125% is only applicable to continuous load (NEC 210.19). A continuous load is defined as "A load where the maximum current is expected to continue for 3 hours or more.)

 

[spruce]

Hey man ....I appreciate the response . It would never be my intention to cause a fire in my house . I guess I didnt really realize the magnitude or potential for disaster until you laid it out there . I'm going to get an electrician over here and have him give everything a once over .

And no more welding....:bash:

Dont let google electrician scare you, what you have will work, its not ideal, but it will work and be safe enough to use. That 30 amp breaker will keep you protected from doing any damage to anything.
And YES I'm a licensed Journeyman inside wireman (19 years) and I'm in the process of getting my state contractors License.

Use the welder, stop worrying.

 

[FL-Orange]

Dont let google electrician scare you, what you have will work, its not ideal, but it will work and be safe enough to use. That 30 amp breaker will keep you protected from doing any damage to anything.
And YES I'm a licensed Journeyman inside wireman (19 years) and I'm in the process of getting my state contractors License.

Use the welder, stop worrying.

I'm an engineering designer and i've seen the results first hand of overloaded and unprotected circuits. Just because something may work doesn't mean it wouldn't cause damage. Wires could suffer damage that could lead to problems down the road when the dryer is hooked back up. Funny, the master electricians I know always play on the safe side.

 

[BLWN DSG]

Wouldn't the 125% only be appropriate for a continuos load like lighting or A/C equipment? I thought he listed the MOP at 35A.

Edit: Just looked, yes 125% is only applicable to continuous load (NEC 210.19). A continuous load is defined as "A load where the maximum current is expected to continue for 3 hours or more.)

Did not see where it called for 35A MOP.

Dont let google electrician scare you, what you have will work, its not ideal, but it will work and be safe enough to use. That 30 amp breaker will keep you protected from doing any damage to anything.
And YES I'm a licensed Journeyman inside wireman (19 years) and I'm in the process of getting my state contractors License.

Use the welder, stop worrying.

Not an electrician....electrical engineer working in the power and industrial/ manufacturing sector. Responsible for designing multiple multi-million dollar systems. Did the electrical engineering for Kia Manufacturing plant in West Point, GA; Schott Photovoltic Plant in Albequrque, NM; Holcim Cement in St. Genevieve, MO which is the world's largest single kiln cement line. You are assuming that the 30A breaker is working correctly. From looking at the small picture of his panel and knowing the age of the system...I personally would not fully trust it or was installed correctly. The trip mechanism inside breakers can wear out over time and the contacts can become worn down which will cause the arc due to lack of full contact.

I'm an engineering designer and i've seen the results first hand of overloaded and unprotected circuits.

Most of the education I have seen is from old circuits and old worn out devices.