Engine Builder Help

[Need 04 Wine]

Hello gentlemen

SORRY IF THIS IN WRONG SPOT BUT I NEED EXPIERENCED EYES HERE AND INTELLIGENT INPUT, COST IS A FACTOR SO IF YOUR ANWSER IS SPEND $6000 THANK YOU BUT MOVE ON TO THE NEXT THREAD.

So I've been researching for awhile now on a new longblock for my car.

I've checked out MMR, Livernois, CHP, DSS, FRPP, and everything in between. Well all of these places are reputable and I have known of them for the last 10 years, in all cases their prices are slightly out of my budget. Like any true hot rodder I want the most for the least. Unfortunatley I'm not skilled or have the tools required for a machine shop to perform the work and myself to assemble.

I have found a few local engine shops that with the price of some forged rod/pistons can get it around $3800 assembled. however that is taking into account that my heads would not need touched. Which I don't think is a problem as the motor only has 120,000KM on it, but if they did the rebuild would push well over $5500.

Im not sure what happened in recent years but motor building has gotten insane costly. But I may have found a place that can almost meet my needs.

Promar performance Engines-http://www.promarperformanceengines.com/

If you follow that link and scroll down on the page you will find a 4.6 Mod motor build list.

I have not come across this company until today so I'm wondering if anyone else has?
The products they list are high end names and should be a of high quality. But as we all know good parts are only as good as a good builder.

DOES ANYBODY KNOW OR HAVE USED PROMAR?

The one thing I cant wrap my head around is this company sell a fully rebuilt STOCK longblock for $2300, But the Forged rod, piston and spark plug thread upgrade is $4000.

MMR sells similar rod/piston upgrade kits for $900, (I would suggest that Promar would have similar cost). That's roughly $3200 my cost.(theirs will be cheaper I would assume)
Can someone explain to me why it takes an additional $800 to install these items?(roughly 8 hours labour)
Just doesn't add up to me.

And now with member stangfreak03GT killing it with a stock motor and exact same set-up as my car. Why the hell should I spend that much ($1800) on rod and pistons.

Here is all the questions in one spot:
1) Has anyone used or know Promar Performance Engines
2) Why does forged rod and pistons cost so god damn much?(roughly $1800 more in this case, $800 just to install)
3) Do I even need forged for my desired power levels(12-14psi boost)? referencing member stangfreak03GT
4) Do you know of another place that can supply quality product at reasonable price?
5) Why can Promar provide a similar equipped engine to other engine builders @ $700 less?
Well there it is gents PLEASE help me out here, I want to make sure I spend money in the right spot here I cant have this GT eating up a huge budget because its just not needed as far as I'm concerned. My future plans include a Mach and Cobra so huge power out of a GT is not needed, but I would like the safety of a forged rod/piston.

 

[rotor_powerd]

What are your goals for the car?

Wouldn't touch MMR anything with a 10 foot pole

 

[Need 04 Wine]

What are your goals for the car?

Wouldn't touch MMR anything with a 10 foot pole

A safe 400-450rwhp.
Its a cruising car, but may need to see track duty to appease me until the cobra is feasible. Also would hate to turn down a little street fun

Thx

 

[Deceptive]

400-450 is right on the edge of what a stock motor will handle. And how long before you would want one more psi?

I say use stock block and crank, find 03-04 Cobra rods, and some Manley Pistons.

 

[Need 04 Wine]

400-450 is right on the edge of what a stock motor will handle. And how long before you would want one more psi?

I say use stock block and crank, find 03-04 Cobra rods, and some Manley Pistons.

Ive also looked into this option. In most cases people want 500-800 for a used set of rod/pistons. Not worth it.

Once the car is tuned and set, it would stay at that set-up. The only thing that would change would be exhaust, which if Im not mistaken would actually help motor hold together, less backpressure.

thx for input guys everything is appreciated ....but lets try to get back to original 5 questions though.:beer:

 

[oldmodman]

Can you do some or all of the non machining work yourself?

Keep your stock block, stock crank, stock rods.

Have the block checked for alignment and deck flatness. It may get by with NO machining work at all. Hone the cylinders to the correct new piston size.

You will be buying new pistons, bearing (both rod and crank) sets and you can't go wrong with Kings. New ring set. Look at Total Seal. Steel top ring, napier second, low tension oil.

Lots of different opinions on pistons. But all the "big" brands are good.

Your heads. Might want to consider a simple valve job paying strict attention to valve movement within the guides. Stock Ford valve guides are a common source of problems. New valve stem seals.

Stick with stock gaskets where possible.

Fasteners. if you can afford it replace ALL fasteners with ARP. Spring for the 2000 series rod bolts. And don't forget main bearing and head studs.

With luck and looking for deals you should end up with a 700hp capable longblock (but no fancy custom cams) for under 2K, maybe even less. Don't forget to get a tube of ARP bolt lube or you won't get correct torque on the bolt and stud clamping.

And when you get done you will have had the satisfaction of doing most of it yourself.

 

[Need 04 Wine]

Can you do some or all of the non machining work yourself?

Keep your stock block, stock crank, stock rods.

Have the block checked for alignment and deck flatness. It may get by with NO machining work at all. Hone the cylinders to the correct new piston size.

You will be buying new pistons, bearing (both rod and crank) sets and you can't go wrong with Kings. New ring set. Look at Total Seal. Steel top ring, napier second, low tension oil.

Lots of different opinions on pistons. But all the "big" brands are good.

Your heads. Might want to consider a simple valve job paying strict attention to valve movement within the guides. Stock Ford valve guides are a common source of problems. New valve stem seals.

Stick with stock gaskets where possible.

Fasteners. if you can afford it replace ALL fasteners with ARP. Spring for the 2000 series rod bolts. And don't forget main bearing and head studs.

With luck and looking for deals you should end up with a 700hp capable longblock (but no fancy custom cams) for under 2K, maybe even less. Don't forget to get a tube of ARP bolt lube or you won't get correct torque on the bolt and stud clamping.

And when you get done you will have had the satisfaction of doing most of it yourself.

thx oldmodman

Well I would love to explore this option I unfortunately do not have the skill, knowledge or time to assemble my own longblock, I would be only be able to install and remove the motor.

But im interested that you didn't want to change the factory rods, as most people preach that this is the weakest point of the 2V motor.

Thx for response

 

[2000gt4.6]

If all you want is about 425 RWHP a factory longblock is enough. You could do a set of cams/mild head job and make that easily on 8-10 psi. My car for reference made 405~ rwhp on a mustang dyno, so a easy 425 on a dynojet, with stock heads and N/A cams.

This is assuming its a stick of course. Regardless it should be enough for low 12s/high 11s depending on tire.

My car has approximately 15k on it since the blower. I don't beat the hell out of it but when I take it out I drive it like its ment to be driven. The only failure I have had so far has been a bad coil pack and a alternator or two.

 

[Need 04 Wine]

If all you want is about 425 RWHP a factory longblock is enough. You could do a set of cams/mild head job and make that easily on 8-10 psi. My car for reference made 405~ rwhp on a mustang dyno, so a easy 425 on a dynojet, with stock heads and N/A cams.

This is assuming its a stick of course. Regardless it should be enough for low 12s/high 11s depending on tire.

My car has approximately 15k on it since the blower. I don't beat the hell out of it but when I take it out I drive it like its ment to be driven. The only failure I have had so far has been a bad coil pack and a alternator or two.

Thx for response, what type blower you running?

 

[2000gt4.6]

V2SQ from Vortech. Its been on the car for several years (don't drive it much anymore).

 

[oldmodman]

thx oldmodman

Well I would love to explore this option I unfortunately do not have the skill, knowledge or time to assemble my own longblock, I would be only be able to install and remove the motor.

But im interested that you didn't want to change the factory rods, as most people preach that this is the weakest point of the 2V motor.
Thx for response

You are correct.
My bad, I didn't pay enough attention to you initial post. And just assumed that you were starting with an 03/04 Cobra
I have Cobra on the brain. The stock 2 valve rods will not be reliable at the horsepower levels you want to achieve.
The stock Cobra rods certainly will.

 

[Need 04 Wine]

You are correct.
My bad, I didn't pay enough attention to you initial post. And just assumed that you were starting with an 03/04 Cobra
I have Cobra on the brain. The stock 2 valve rods will not be reliable at the horsepower levels you want to achieve.
The stock Cobra rods certainly will.

No worries man. I wish it was a cobra then it would be much easier.
thx again

 

[Need 04 Wine]

ttt
nobody heard of promar on hear at all?

thx in advance