Factory LCA needed

[Canson]

The axle weights are reinstalled, I could only torque driver side bolt since it was 15mm socket. Passenger side seems to be much bigger bolt I hadn't the right so let for it.

I have only squeak at the moment, and some driveline noise and louder gear whine now.

No clunks for me

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[Canson]

Guys, has anybody experienced vibration at highway with BMR LCA and relocation brackets?

My car shakes alot after 140km/h in the seats and the rear view mirror rattles like crazy. Alot of vibration and rattles.


Shop installed new strut mount both sides, BMR LCA and relocation brackets, alignment and did service.

Car was perfect before this and didn't had any issues with vibration.

It could be that some weight from wheels fall off.
When I come back home next week I will take car for tire balance and see if that was the issue.

If it doesn't help then I either go back to new factory LCA or remove the relocation brackets and see if only with BMR LCA the vibration goes or not.

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[Canson]

Update: Today I let the shop balance all 4 tires but it didn't help with the vibration at highway over 140km/h

I will either remove the bracket and only use the bmr lca and see if it fixes my issue.

Or I will remove the bracket and lca and buy the Ford racing lca instead

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[Steve@TF]

i have Bobs LCAs and BMR relo brackets. no noise at all. been running all this for a long time. on street and road course. i did chuck those anti damper block things on the axle.

 

[sonicx]

i did chuck those anti damper block things on the axle.

it’s interesting that I’ve heard some guys say they never had those on from the factory To begin with. Really only helps NHV when i factory trim as was designed by the engineers to. It haven’t had experience nor read that keeping them has approved positive or negative affects. Upon install of BMRs LCA & reco i kept my mine. And as an experiment, took them off. Maybe a slight increase or maybe it’s all head games. Either way they’ve stayed off and it’s saved what like 5lbs ish total?

 

[Steve@TF]

it’s interesting that I’ve heard some guys say they never had those on from the factory To begin with. Really only helps NHV when i factory trim as was designed by the engineers to. It haven’t had experience nor read that keeping them has approved positive or negative affects. Upon install of BMRs LCA & reco i kept my mine. And as an experiment, took them off. Maybe a slight increase or maybe it’s all head games. Either way they’ve stayed off and it’s saved what like 5lbs ish total?

those things are heavy. have to be at 5-10lbs each. i still have them sitting in the junk pile in my backyard. ill weigh them later lol. i added enough weight down there will all the extra stuff i added. the bmr watts link alone weighs as much as the iron block lol.

 

[sonicx]

those things are heavy. have to be at 5-10lbs each. i still have them sitting in the junk pile in my backyard. ill weigh them later lol. i added enough weight down there will all the extra stuff i added. the bmr watts link alone weighs as much as the iron block lol.

It’s been awhile since I’ve seen mine.. long gone. I knew they weight a little but wasn’t sure. Honestly good shop door Jams

 

[Canson]

I removed LCA and brackets and installed my factory LCA back again. No vibration that I can feel on highway. I also installed the axle weights back again.


Do you guys know if it's possible to adjust pinion angle with LCA and UCA?

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[sonicx]

I removed LCA and brackets and installed my factory LCA back again. No vibration that I can feel on highway. I also installed the axle weights back again.


Do you guys know if it's possible to adjust pinion angle with LCA and UCA?

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is the pin angle off? Have you measured? I guess it’s possible as geometry can change caused by lowering the can. Are you noticing inproper weight transfer to the rear axle during heavy straight line acceleration? The UCA is what works pin degree angle, but you’d need an adjustable one.

 

[Canson]

is the pin angle off? Have you measured? I guess it’s possible as geometry can change caused by lowering the can. Are you noticing inproper weight transfer to the rear axle during heavy straight line acceleration? The UCA is what works pin degree angle, but you’d need an adjustable one.

I actually don't know what the angle is right now and don't know how to check or adjust.


I am getting rattle in Passenger door area near glovebox at speeds over 140km/h.

And I don't know if the rattle comes because of driveline vibration or if something is just lose somewhere in the area. It's really annoying rattle.


Because I don't remember that I had this noise before installing the parts. I could be wrong.


I drove up to 200km/h and it feels good , can't tell if I feel any vibration really . Only rattle passenger area

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[sonicx]

@Canson if you’re having a shop doing all this. Then that’s whom should be checking and or you directing this feedback to for them
to diagnose. if you don’t / can’t whatever if there a good shop, they should be willing to help. If they can’t or won’t, time to find a better shop. Because it sounds like your chasing “loosely” define that noises are extremely hard to say ooo it’s this or that without being hands on. If your tackling yourself. I’d start under the car front to see if somethings loose or damaged and work back.

I actually don't know what the angle is right now and don't know how to check or adjust.


I am getting rattle in Passenger door area near glovebox at speeds over 140km/h.

And I don't know if the rattle comes because of driveline vibration or if something is just lose somewhere in the area. It's really annoying rattle.


Because I don't remember that I had this noise before installing the parts. I could be wrong.


I drove up to 200km/h and it feels good , can't tell if I feel any vibration really . Only rattle passenger area

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sweden sounds awesome love to drove 90-124 mph lol.

Each u-joint opperating angle needs to be between 1 and 3 degrees with 1.5-2.5 being preferred. The trick in setting up driveline angles is matching the front operating angle to the rear.

If you end up with a 1.5 operating angle on the front joint and 2.5 on the rear, you will be having a vibration at highway speeds.

best advice i could give you if you’re doing yourself is YouTube.

 

[Canson]

sweden sounds awesome love to drove 90-124 mph lol.

Each u-joint opperating angle needs to be between 1 and 3 degrees with 1.5-2.5 being preferred. The trick in setting up driveline angles is matching the front operating angle to the rear.

If you end up with a 1.5 operating angle on the front joint and 2.5 on the rear, you will be having a vibration at highway speeds.

best advice i could give you if you’re doing yourself is YouTube.

Speed limit is like 120km/h here

And is that only possible to do with adjustable uca?

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[sonicx]

Speed limit is like 120km/h here

And is that only possible to do with adjustable uca?

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I just updated my last post above when you dropped this message. To answer this yes but you might not need it. Hence checking the pin angle first.