Fall 2017 GT500 supercharged voodoo, 10 speed auto and....

gimmie11s

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all camo'd up, but looks like a portly ass pig IMO. might be heavier than a Hellcat. lol
 

jtfx6552

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My wish list:
750 hp minimum,
Under 4000 lbs, preferebly under 3900
Non remote shifter manual transmission
Real clutch with no clutch protection
Under 75K msrp
Make as many as people want
No production limiting features, even if they would be cool (CF wheels, etc)
 

Fourcam380

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That's a lot to ask brother lol.

How about some CCM brakes? I think Ford and Hyundai are the only oems to still not use them.

Kidding aside I'd take them over CF wheels as I can get those in the aftermarket. Need an oem fitment of CCM brakes to make them cost effective.
 

GT Premi

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Carbon ceramic brakes are also available on the aftermarket. The cost isn't much different than getting them as an OEM part. It's MUCH cheaper to get carbon fiber wheels from OEM. The cost of the R package is so good compared to what you'd pay aftermarket for the wheels alone, much less the rear wing, that it should be considered grand theft.
 

jtfx6552

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That's a lot to ask brother lol.

Which part do you think is unreasonable? I haven't spent much time outside the "Cobra" forums, so I'm not up to speed with what a twin turbo coyote puts down at 14 psi boost. My rational, if a trinity could pass Ford's durability testing at 14 psi, a coyote can, and with the lower parasitic loss of the turbo vs the PD blower, and better flowing heads and other coyote advantages, 750 seems reasonable.

I'm allowing 200 lbs for the turbos and coolers and heavier transmission and 1/2 shafts (granted 100 extra is probably not enough.)

They really need to figure out the clutch and shifter for all these cars...
 

Clemson

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My wish list:
750 hp minimum,
Under 4000 lbs, preferebly under 3900
Non remote shifter manual transmission
Real clutch with no clutch protection
Under 75K msrp
Make as many as people want
No production limiting features, even if they would be cool (CF wheels, etc)

Perfectly reasonable list honestly. Id imagine a manual and auto as choices - 100% agree with the non-remote BS though. As for power, Id be surprised though if it has "only" 750 hp. They will make 1 less than "as many as people want." lol
 

Fourcam380

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Carbon ceramic brakes are also available on the aftermarket. The cost isn't much different than getting them as an OEM part. It's MUCH cheaper to get carbon fiber wheels from OEM. The cost of the R package is so good compared to what you'd pay aftermarket for the wheels alone, much less the rear wing, that it should be considered grand theft.

I can get CCMs for any euro car I've had for significantly less than CF wheels only because there are oem apps that pre exist. Definitely possible that someone's pioneered their own stang swap using another oems fitment but I haven't seen it as of yet.

I'd also rather have CCM brakes than CF wheels as non CCM rotors and pads are toast after one OT event.

R package sure, I agree, was comparing ala carte.
 

Fourcam380

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Which part do you think is unreasonable? I haven't spent much time outside the "Cobra" forums, so I'm not up to speed with what a twin turbo coyote puts down at 14 psi boost. My rational, if a trinity could pass Ford's durability testing at 14 psi, a coyote can, and with the lower parasitic loss of the turbo vs the PD blower, and better flowing heads and other coyote advantages, 750 seems reasonable.

I'm allowing 200 lbs for the turbos and coolers and heavier transmission and 1/2 shafts (granted 100 extra is probably not enough.)

They really need to figure out the clutch and shifter for all these cars...
Nothing in particular other than the non limitation of options, I guess I've learned to tame my expectations in lieu of constant disappointment. Didn't mean to piss in your cheerios, sorry

Coyote heads are no contest to any previous design, but head flow/velocity is much less of an issue with FI. NA heads dictate how much HP can be made, FI it's the size of the blower, turbo or turbos.
 

GT Premi

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I'd also rather have CCM brakes than CF wheels as non CCM rotors and pads are toast after one OT event.

...

Some two-piece rotors with aluminum hubs [and proper pads] can remedy that for a whole lot cheaper. Carbon fiber wheels make a much bigger overall performance difference than carbon ceramic rotors. I'm speaking from some experience. I swapped out the heavy stock rotors on my GT500 for some lightweight "race" rotors. Aside from the weight savings, the overall performance increase was negligible. It stops a little better, but I think that has more to do with the SS braided brake lines than the rotors themselves. Their main function is to dissipate heat faster, which preserves the rotors and pads. When I put some lightweight wheels on it, that made a huge difference.
 

jtfx6552

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Nothing in particular other than the non limitation of options, I guess I've learned to tame my expectations in lieu of constant disappointment. Didn't mean to piss in your cheerios, sorry

Coyote heads are no contest to any previous design, but head flow/velocity is much less of an issue with FI. NA heads dictate how much HP can be made, FI it's the size of the blower, turbo or turbos.


I'm not upset at your post, just curious.

I somewhat agree about head flow, but the lower the pressure drop on the downstream side, the less pressure for a given flow, less heat and lower chance of detonation. In other words, 14 psi would be more flow on a coyote vs the old school modular (ignoring displacement differences for a moment).
 

jtfx6552

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Some two-piece rotors with aluminum hubs [and proper pads] can remedy that for a whole lot cheaper. Carbon fiber wheels make a much bigger overall performance difference than carbon ceramic rotors. I'm speaking from some experience. I swapped out the heavy stock rotors on my GT500 for some lightweight "race" rotors. Aside from the weight savings, the overall performance increase was negligible. It stops a little better, but I think that has more to do with the SS braided brake lines than the rotors themselves. Their main function is to dissipate heat faster, which preserves the rotors and pads. When I put some lightweight wheels on it, that made a huge difference.

Has anyone dug into why the ZL1 1LE has such low stopping distances? They aren't carbon ceramic are they? Plus I don't believe they have the cool separate hat and rotor by pin design either?
 

GT Premi

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The ZL1 1LE has larger rear rotors, I believe, and probably different brake proportioning.
 

GTSpartan

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They aren't carbon ceramic are they? Plus I don't believe they have the cool separate hat and rotor by pin design either?

That hat/pin design provides no advantage over the more conventional hat/clip setup found in virtually all other 2-piece brakes. It's actually a little heavier.
 

Fourcam380

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Some two-piece rotors with aluminum hubs [and proper pads] can remedy that for a whole lot cheaper. Carbon fiber wheels make a much bigger overall performance difference than carbon ceramic rotors. I'm speaking from some experience. I swapped out the heavy stock rotors on my GT500 for some lightweight "race" rotors. Aside from the weight savings, the overall performance increase was negligible. It stops a little better, but I think that has more to do with the SS braided brake lines than the rotors themselves. Their main function is to dissipate heat faster, which preserves the rotors and pads. When I put some lightweight wheels on it, that made a huge difference.

Compound rotors are better than one piece but not nearly as good as CCM. Going CCM over compound on my SLS was a 12rw gain same dyno. Also they don't wear at all on track or street compared to anything ferrous.

Yes wheels have a greater polar moment of inertia than brakes but again the pros outweigh the cons imho.
 

Fourcam380

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Has anyone dug into why the ZL1 1LE has such low stopping distances? They aren't carbon ceramic are they? Plus I don't believe they have the cool separate hat and rotor by pin design either?

The limiting factor here is the tires and it has some wide sticky meats.
 

Fourcam380

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I'm not upset at your post, just curious.

I somewhat agree about head flow, but the lower the pressure drop on the downstream side, the less pressure for a given flow, less heat and lower chance of detonation. In other words, 14 psi would be more flow on a coyote vs the old school modular (ignoring displacement differences for a moment).

Yes head for head correct but FI doesn't care about port angles, valve size etc as much as NA unless it's an all out race app. Also as you pointed out different displacements as well as intake manifolds, exhaust, cams, etc. I think we're on the same page.

That said I really hope the GT500 has port and DI.
 

C0bra99

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Alot of people who track swap out the CCM for steelies since the advantage of them don't align to the cost. Remember CCM only deal with heat better and not so much with stopping(yes I know less heat less fade). They don't belong on a street/track car. People that want them and brag about them should be buying a Ferrari, since you belong in that crowd.

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Fourcam380

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Alot of people who track swap out the CCM for steelies since the advantage of them don't align to the cost. Remember CCM only deal with heat better and not so much with stopping(yes I know less heat less fade). They don't belong on a street/track car. People that want them and brag about them should be buying a Ferrari, since you belong in that crowd.

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I guess that's why Camaros and vettes run them.

Again I like that I don't need to change my brakes every weekend. I don't notice much if any difference in stopping distances. That's about tires more than anything.

Yep, everyone should just run heavy ass steel brakes.
 

GT Premi

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Again I like that I don't need to change my brakes every weekend. I don't notice much if any difference in stopping distances. That's about tires more than anything.

...

I'm not arguing against CCB, but if you were having to change your rotors every weekend, then you should probably evaluate your driving style. Braking on track is not like braking on the street where most people ride the brakes down to a stop. On track, you wait until the last possible moment, stand on the brakes for about 2 or 3 seconds, tops (and that's coming from a long straight), make your turn and back on the gas.

Also, are you sure your rotors weren't just covered in pad residue and not warped? I have learned that a lot of guys that track their cars think they have warped rotors when, in fact, it's just pad residue. I've done a lot of research on the brakes subject. I've also learned that steel/iron rotors aren't anywhere near as easily warped as people think.

Again, I'm not arguing with you or trying to give you a hard time. I'm a fan of CCBs, if for no reason other than the weight savings.
 

AustinSN

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I'd also rather have CCM brakes than CF wheels as non CCM rotors and pads are toast after one OT event.

A good steel rotor will last nearly as long as a CCM rotor on track.

Alot of people who track swap out the CCM for steelies since the advantage of them don't align to the cost. Remember CCM only deal with heat better and not so much with stopping(yes I know less heat less fade). They don't belong on a street/track car. People that want them and brag about them should be buying a Ferrari, since you belong in that crowd.

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This. My buddy is serious about picking up a 2015 Z28 as they are so inexpensive but the first order of business before you take it on track is to sell the CCM setup to someone who thinks they are worth it. Or someone who accidentally knicked one while pulling a wheel.

Also, CCM brakes only deal with heat better until like 900 degrees. If you overheat the rotors, I hope you have $3k laying around.

I guess that's why Camaros and vettes run them.

Again I like that I don't need to change my brakes every weekend. I don't notice much if any difference in stopping distances. That's about tires more than anything.

Yep, everyone should just run heavy ass steel brakes.

Guys are getting 8-15 days out of a 2 piece RB rotor. Even with stock rotors on my car I can get 6 days out of them. They are usually warped at that point and I replace them because it's annoying and they are only $40.

It beats the hell out of buying a $2,500-$6,000 set of rotors every 15 track days.

The benefit to carbon ceramic rotors is street duty life and weight, which comes at an enormous price.
 

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