Final Checklist for Clutch Job

[99Venom]

Well I fried my clutch at the drag strip last week, and I'm planning to do the job this Saturday. Just looking for some feedback on the prices and parts I'm getting. Wanna make sure I'm not forgetting anything on the parts list, or paying too much. From what I gathered on a post search, the stock 03 Cobra clutch seems like the best clutch for slightly modded N/A cars.

03 Cobra Clutch Kit = $219 (Tousley Ford) +Throwout Bearing, Pilot Bearing.
Fidanza 8-bolt Aluminum Flywheel = $349 (American Muscle)


Should I get a new cable and clutch fork while I'm at it?

Thanks in advance!

Dan

 

[006]

Here:

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...734-throw-out-bearing-destruction-photos.html

I recommend a Timken TOB (part # 614014) and to replace your header to H pipe gasket (Part # XR3Z-9450-AA and requires only one on the passenger side)

I also recommend a pivot ball stud

 

[hi_po_heads]

if you dont have an adjustable cable and quadrant already, this would be the perfect time to upgrade.

 

[Wynn]

I did mine in the spring, and I didn't replace my clutch fork or ball stud. Guess what? My clutch fork won't stay on the ball stud squarely, and it's making my TOB hit the pressure plate unevenly, causing a notchy pedal feel. I'm tearing mine down this weekend to fix $50 worth of parts. I wish I would have just replaced this stuff the first time.

BTW I bought a new fork and pivot stud through Summit for $65 to my door, with 2 day air shipping.

If it were me, I'd get about 3 or 4 swivels to use, because you'll definitely need at least 2 and you might break one.

 

[kcpgt2002]

I'd recommend cleaning out the inside of the bell housing with brake cleaner while you got it out. Less shit to contaminate the tob and pivot ball the better. I suggest using the "secret sauce" trans fluid mixture. I think its like 3/4 a bottle of lucas and 2.6 quarts of auto trans fluid

 

[olgreydog7]

don't get an adjustable clutch cable. +1 on getting the clutch fork. Also, D&D has the best deal on the Fidanza fw, $309 shipped.

 

[99Venom]

Thanks for the info guys, but now I'm thinking I might have jumped the gun a little bit. Now I'm thinking this whole time maybe the cable was the culprit and not the clutch. I went out to start it the other day and I noticed the pedal now had almost no tension at all, and the car would not go into any gear. At the track I could get it into all forward gears (reverse too with a lot of effort) with the clutch squealing a little, but it was enough to hobble it back home.

My question is, was the cable stretched and near the breaking point, and that's what caused the hard shifting? Common problem? At the same time though I'm not sure this didn't cause damage to the clutch. Obviously it would be a lot cheaper replacing only the cable. I'll plan on getting underneath it to take a look and inspect the cable.

Dan

 

[006]

Stick your foot under the clutch pedal and raise it up. You should hear some clicks and the pedal adjuster should readjust the tension.

I think it's time you get a firewall adjuster and a clutch quadrant

 

[99Venom]

Stick your foot under the clutch pedal and raise it up. You should hear some clicks and the pedal adjuster should readjust the tension.

I think it's time you get a firewall adjuster and a clutch quadrant

Already tried adjusting it, the pedal is not doing anything so I'm going to inspect the cable first chance I get.

 

[99Venom]

I think I found the problem.....
http://img519.imageshack.us/img519/5774/1018413.jpg

 

[olgreydog7]

Yea, that isn't supposed to happen