The dealership I use will over look the mods and warranty it... But over the winter I plan on upgrading... I like the idea of a electric locker...
First time out on drag radial... Bye bye factory posi...!!!
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The clutch is good... Car only has 14,000 kilometers on it....
well good luck. upgrade your heat exchanger though. when i had similar mods as you, my car sucked balls in 90 degree temps. are you on the stock x-pipe? if so when the ecu goes into cat protection mode it dumps a ton of fuel to cool them down.
Well that explains the black exhaust tips lol... Yeah I'm putting on a MRT Catted H-pipe once it arrives... Over the winter I will upgrade the heatexchanger... To one of Van's heatexchangers...
the tru trac is an excellent option and has served me great, i love it. the price isn't bad either, i believe i payed about 450 for mine.
I'm surprised with all the information out there that anyone would consider racing with traction control on.
Trutrac FTW!!
I wouldn't ice the blower any more. A lot of people have bent their rotors by doing that because it cools them too quickly instead of gradually.
small clarification on SVT_SRT8's comments, as it was explained to me.
Icing the blower does not affect the rotors, it affects the blower housing, it contracts the housing then the rotors may hit the housing as a result. Really has nothing to do with the speed of cooling, more to the fact the housing will of course cool first before the rotors. So its very hard to get both the rotors and housing to be equal in temp. if one could cool the entire unit (interior and exterior) equally it would not be an issue.
Icing the blower does not affect the rotors, it affects the blower housing, it contracts the housing then the rotors may hit the housing as a result. Really has nothing to do with the speed of cooling, more to the fact the housing will of course cool first before the rotors. So its very hard to get both the rotors and housing to be equal in temp. if one could cool the entire unit (interior and exterior) equally it would not be an issue.
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i seriously doubt the housing would contract that much. the ice is on the exterior and the interior of the housing is still cooking. i DD my car and have driven it subzero temps(with wind chill) that is more extreme conditions than a bag of ice. the bag of ice cool down was usually for aluminum intercoolers, as they are thin and contract easily. i've seen that happen first hand on turbo cars with top mount I/C
Talk to the dealership... Car goes in next week... Gonna put a TRUTRAC in over the winter...
the issue is the tolerances between the housing and the rotors and the cooling of only the external housing.
Vortech has warnings on some of the older units not to drive the car in lower then 32* temps.
Weather doing ice on it will damage it or not is subject to a lot of factors. IMO one should at least be aware of the dangers
the Vortech warning was due to the oil they use for the blower.
The SQ blowers had the problem in cold temps and vortech reccomends running the straight cut gear set which is much louder. I had the problem on my 2000 V10 Superduty my SQ blower got damaged from driving in winter and they had me switch to the S gear set. Oil has nothing to due with it as most of the blowers run engine oil through them. Like the other poster said it has to due with the cast housing contracting faster then the steel rotors and there may be some interferance between the two. So to be safe its not a good idea.
E-Locker. Best thing since sliced bread, until...
Done on 400 RWHP Cougar @ 3600lb race weight. I was launching pretty high - maybe 5k launch with wheels up.
How do you get 20psi on a 2.6 pulley?
Look at SC belt slipping and I agree with hreat soak comments.
Look at SC belt slipping and I agree with hreat soak comments.
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The tires were at 20 psi, not the boost.
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