First time with boost, check my setup please

milktasd2

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First time I have ever done boost. Current mods are in signature and this is what I have got and working on getting:
Parts to buy
Treadstone intercoole 1245
10% overdrive crank pulley
Ba5000
Tial Q 50mm
80lbs deka injectors ev1
Accufab throttlebody oval
Aem wideband
Imrc delete
Donathen bumper support
Nasvt intake
Leaning toward Glenn's sleeper fuel system

Parts bought
Vortech t trim v2 with 3" pulley
Vortech bracket
Vortech mounting kit
Vortech oil drain kit
Vortech oil feed kit
Vortech coolant pipes
Boost gauge
Air fuel gauge
Fuel pressure gauge
Anderson power pipe
Cxracing 3" intercooler piping
Ford 8 rib pulley setup
Upr fuel rails
Hanlon t45

Anybody have any recommendations? I plan on having the motor built, custom cams, and hopefully some worked heads. 95% of the time will be on pump gas and on the street. Don't have a desired boost or hp level other than over 600 rwhp would be nice.
 

cbrown9064

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Looks good. Don't bother with cams, you will have plenty of HP with 14-18psi. If you haven't used the Power Pipe yet, see if you can return. You can do as good with some piping and couplers. You should be fine into the mid 500s with a 255lph pump and stock rails. Glenn's and UPR rails not really needed on what you are looking to do.

How are you going to tune? Consider those parts also... I don't "get" when you say you have an air fuel gauge and still need a AEM wideband? If your "air fuel gauge is not a digital wideband, don't bother with it.

Will need a Vortech cast discharge pipe to throttle body if you still want to use strut tower brace.
 

milktasd2

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Friend gave the power pipe cheap, ordered speed hit gauges while they were on sale and won't use the gauge that comes with the wide band kit, have a local shop for tuning, and I haven't had the engine brace in years lol.
 

milktasd2

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As for cams, not gonna lie, I like chop and would like to go ahead since the motor would be getting built and I have seen lots of people I know pick up a good amount of mid range power with cams.
 

cbrown9064

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As for cams, not gonna lie, I like chop and would like to go ahead since the motor would be getting built and I have seen lots of people I know pick up a good amount of mid range power with cams.

Doesn't make much difference with forced induction. Cams are gonna set you back over $1k.
 

Brutal Metal

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Why? Intercooler is only 3"

I have 3" from the head unit into the intercooler then a 3"to 3.5" coupler coming out of it up to the TB, more range for the slotted MAF and the Vortech elbow that connects to the TB is 3.5" too.

112.jpg
 

yfz162

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If your goal is 550-600 rwhp now you may as well get the fuel system and rails done now. I am sure you will want more power at some point. In my experience the 80lb injectors will not work well with the stock fuel rails. I ran 60's on 18lbs of boost and ran into lean spots @ wot while tuning when I had the stock fuel rails, aeromotive fpr, 255 in tank, and a Trex inline. Leave the heads alone, porting is expensive and you will not pick up much on the B heads at the boost level you are looking at. Blower cams will not get you the kind of idle you are looking for either. You need a lot of lift for the really choppy idle and blower cams usually run more duration with less lift from what I have seen.
 

Blown_By_You

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If your goal is 550-600 rwhp now you may as well get the fuel system and rails done now. I am sure you will want more power at some point. In my experience the 80lb injectors will not work well with the stock fuel rails. I ran 60's on 18lbs of boost and ran into lean spots @ wot while tuning when I had the stock fuel rails, aeromotive fpr, 255 in tank, and a Trex inline. Leave the heads alone, porting is expensive and you will not pick up much on the B heads at the boost level you are looking at. Blower cams will not get you the kind of idle you are looking for either. You need a lot of lift for the really choppy idle and blower cams usually run more duration with less lift from what I have seen.

80's work lovely with stock rails.

And you have the cam thing backwards.. Lots of lift.. Low duration..
 

milktasd2

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Don't think I can do much more boost than what I have planned. 3" pulley with 10% over and shifting at 7k will put me at overspinning the blower by 6000.
 

97snakebite

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Looks good. Don't bother with cams, you will have plenty of HP with 14-18psi. If you haven't used the Power Pipe yet, see if you can return. You can do as good with some piping and couplers. You should be fine into the mid 500s with a 255lph pump and stock rails. Glenn's and UPR rails not really needed on what you are looking to do.

How are you going to tune? Consider those parts also... I don't "get" when you say you have an air fuel gauge and still need a AEM wideband? If your "air fuel gauge is not a digital wideband, don't bother with it.

Will need a Vortech cast discharge pipe to throttle body if you still want to use strut tower brace.

incorrect about the fuel pump... you will need a bigger system since u want to be in the 600 range
 

yfz162

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80's work lovely with stock rails.

And you have the cam thing backwards.. Lots of lift.. Low duration..


Sorry, didn't proof read before I posted. Got in a hurry cuz post xmas shopping yesterday lol. Anyway, I wanted to post more lift and more exhaust duration on a blower cam set-up. Either way, you typically do not get the lope out of blower cams when compared to a NA cam because of the LSA differences....


60's did not work well for me on stock rails so I shared my findings. Nice to hear you are having better luck using the stock stuff.....
 

98 N/A 4V

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Sorry, didn't proof read before I posted. Got in a hurry cuz post xmas shopping yesterday lol. Anyway, I wanted to post more lift and more exhaust duration on a blower cam set-up. Either way, you typically do not get the lope out of blower cams when compared to a NA cam because of the LSA differences....


60's did not work well for me on stock rails so I shared my findings. Nice to hear you are having better luck using the stock stuff.....

Not necessarily true. Anything in the 22X range will give it a noticeable lopy idle. With 4 valves per cylinder you don't need a lot of lift compared to duration.

Here is my car with comp's blower cams (106460). Biggest off the shelf cams they make. Nice lopey idle. Specs are 238/240 .475/.450 lift.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=64LlKmCgDjk

But stock rails max out at around 600-610. But his return line will also be a bottleneck at that point cause that 255 won't feed enough fuel so you'll need a bigger pump.

-Mark
 
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Nightmare302

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No idea what's going on here. Lift should almost never exceed .475 as you will have clearance issues. Duration and LSA is what gives a cam it's "chop". If you want to spend 1500-2k for a sound then go for it. Otherwise, 98 Cobra cams will make the power you want easily without any tuning issues. Cams can help throughout the RPM range, however you are not going for a max performance combo so don't kid yourself with "power increases" when really you just want to sound cool, and that's fine.
 

98 N/A 4V

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With a small V2 he is going to have to spin it pretty high to hit 600. The cams should help the efficiency and yield more hp per boost. Can he hit 600 with stock cams. Yes but it would be over spinning the blower.

-Mark
 

Nightmare302

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With a small V2 he is going to have to spin it pretty high to hit 600. The cams should help the efficiency and yield more hp per boost. Can he hit 600 with stock cams. Yes but it would be over spinning the blower.

-Mark
He's running a T-trim not an S-trim. It will spin just fine to make 600 with any cam he wants in there. He might gain 10rwhp through the band starting around 3-4krpm and make 30rwhp on the big end for an investment of nearly 2k.
 

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