fishpick's 2012 Coyote Vert Build Thread (Base GT Convertible)

[fishpick]

Fishpick


Thank you so much for getting back to me. I started to get.as you mentioned in your thread …. Pre-freak out mode. I started reading the install instructions over and over.

I’m in NJ and like NY weather is starting to break. I’m looking forward to getting this project on its

No problem. Also - yes - did do the sprocket too... got both SST in a Black Friday deal from beefcake. Figured that was the easy part!

Doing it yourself is petty friggin rewarding but having someone do it for you is a less stressful way for sure!


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[Sportin' Wood]

Hey Fishpick,
Any updates after installing your new tune? Are you still experiencing any surging?

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[fishpick]

Hey Fishpick,
Any updates after installing your new tune? Are you still experiencing any surging?
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I haven't forgotten this thread - but I did update this (sorta) on the question I posed about it thread...

Short version - until just today at lunch I was waiting for FedEx to deliver the IAT sensor here for the new tune (they again took FOREVER!).

I didn't drive the car much this weekend as we had temps up into the 80's - and without that sensor - that's a little close for me after all this work.

SO - now I have the sensor installed and wired into the MAF harness and will give the car a valid workout tonight!

I can say I took a few early morning rides with it in the cooler air and there's absolutely NO SURGE from the big 132mm monoblade at all. Smooth as stock in the first 1/4" of pedal travel... after that it builds pretty quickly into monster territory! All surging is gone.

If other tuners have issues getting the surge out of this TB - they need to look at whatever Whipple is doing - because it friggin WORKS!

 

[Sportin' Wood]

Lol "valid workout", keep the traction control on. I've had mine break loose in third a couple of times, gotta get some drag radials. Really loving this setup so far.

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[fishpick]

Here's a continuing first impression of the Whipple now that it's "all done" (mostly, I mean, honestly, are we ever "done" with these cars).

It's kinda cool having that MAF sensor signal split so the IAT reported is that post blower... the cluster upgrade I did (do it!) makes for knowing the actual IAT temps right there in the cluster very cool.

With that - I was a little surprised at how high the IAT temps got... The test drive last night (and some today too) was around 55*F ambient as reported by the external sensor on the car. After the car warmed up - the IAT's were hovering in the 90's up to 110*F after parking at the store... But here's the thing... if you step on it hard (more on that later) so you are really SUCKING air in - I think you clear out all the "hot air" under the hood and the IAT temps plummet to the lower 80's... Which is counter to what I expected BUT, thinking about it, it makes sense... The Whipple has a bypass valve in it that is closed when there's boost. So driving around low and slow - the bypass is open - the charger is NOT making boost, but it's also bypassing the IC core in the SC. So, this is just an example of looking at too much data. Temps go WAY up when there's no boost because it's breathing under hood air and not cooling it - but the second you stomp on it - the temps DROP 10-20*F VERY fast - likely faster than the IAT thermometer can measure (again counter intuitive) but it's because although the SC is making boost and heat - the intercooler core is pulling it all out super efficiently!
To validate this assumption I stuck a logging temp sensor Arduino under the hood and drove around and then matched up temps at time checks (yes - DORK!) - when you step on it, the under hood temps actually drop some too - because the SC has gulped all that air to start!
Also - after driving I checked the IC coolant at the fill point - and it was nice and cool - so there's no doubt the HE is doing it's thing really well... like keeping things 20-30 over ambient under a sudden heavy call for boost... it's just in slower driving I think the majority of the heat under the hood gets recycled into the intake. I'd assume this is a challenge when going slow for just about any supercharger setup.

For those interested - I have not gone WOT yet... mostly because this thing is a friggin beast and I'm a whimp, I guess. Couple of years ago we rented a convertible Corvette Z06 - and my wife STILL reminds me of how twitchy that thing was one time we were getting onto I-95 in FL where traction / stability enabled saved me from being a "cars and coffee" kinda video... This Mustang is a bit like that now... Like - when out driving there was a guy going 50 in a 55... (I'm actually laughing as I type this) So, like a conscientious and courteous driver, I flipped on my signal on that I was gonna pass at the dotted and gave the GO pedal a little stab as I pulled around him... The tires chirped - the exhaust roared - the dude and his family in the mini-van clearly had a conversation about my genital size... no doubt...

I have jammed on it a couple of time - and the rear gets a bit "loose" and that gets my foot off the GO pretty quickly. What I'd LOVE is a giant football field sized smooth paved area far away from everything that I could "learn" this car on!

THIS KIT IS AWESOME!

In another post here I asked some questions about my Kooks cat back exhaust and some drone this kit was making... I dunno - seems to have blown that right out... it's stopped... dunno - it's just normal now

 

[RUgoinup?]

I'm glad there are people like you that dig real deep into how/why things work. It makes up for the simple people like me who just turn it on and take all the science/design for granted.

Glad it's all working out for you.

 

[Dreams2Reality]

Nice!! Glad you are loving your kit. My 2.9l kit is being installed and tuned this week....I simply cannot wait to pick it up!

 

[fishpick]

The build marches on... I'm now in the process of looking at wheels / tires for the car and hope to get it on a dyno in the next couple of weeks (will absolutely post pics / graphs when I do).
But today was the first new full tank of gas in the car since the Whipple went live. Long ago someone told me always re-check your balancer bolt after a tank of gas AND in a Facebook group there have been a lot of folks reporting that the ARP bolt has loosened on them (but nobody ever cops to making a mistake, ever). So I figured it was time to get the torque wrench on the ARP bolt and see what I can see.
You ever try to torque a balancer to 105 ft-lbs... on an Auto transmission?
Knowing that was gonna be an issue - one was do the trick where you find some opening into the convert, stick something in there, and really hope all goes as planned. If I had a lift, I might have done that... but I hate being under a car on jackstands. So - how do you solve the "rotating part needs to be tightened without rotating? When I did the install, this was easy / used the old belt, vicegrips, a block of wood, and a midget to hold my beer. (one of those things is optional). Worked great. This time - there's a belt already on, there are hoses galore, etc, etc...
Time to build your own spanner wrench - quick trip to Tractor Supply for a $12.99 wrench... some bolts... and about 30 minutes of time.
To give you an idea of how it will work - I snapped this pic of the balancer - looking into it as if your were the radiator fan (that life would blow, huh?)

The 19mm spine socket fits nicely through the 1 11/16" box end on the donor wrench. I cut the open end off so it was just long enough to rest on the frame... and there as second dolt wended in as well... the spanner locks into the balancer and against the frame- and you are left to push on your big torque wrench until you hear the click! To release the spanner - just pull up 1/4" - and it's all done.

It maye be ugly - but I'm confident that bolt is staying put! And likely every spring as part of my "make here ready" routine - I'll just recheck for peace of mind! (nothing quite like the satisfaction of fixing a problem with a tool that you fabricated to fix the problem)

That brought me to the "you can't leave well enough alone"... so the guy who sold me this kit... provided a few bonuses (aside from missing parts) one of the goodies in the package was a nice Roush vent gauge pod and a cool Autometer Vac/Boost gauge. So - my wife left for a bit this afternoon, it's nice out, I figure - hell - this is a 15 minute install let's do this thing.
Ripping off the gauge cluster surround - old school - easy.
Sending the silly little micro nylon tube through the resonance delete grommet from the SC install - mindless.
I did waste some time learning that the light switch setup itself has no wire that produces 12V (for the gauge backlight) under all conditions of "lights on" - apparently there's a difference between "turning on the lights" and the car doing the "auto turn on"... so - I figured I'd save power for the gauge for another day when I can tap into the passenger fuse box.
So - all that was left todo was attach the little nylon tube to the back of the gauge - simple... stick the gauge into the pod - dash looks great - easy to pull out for power later...
Under the hood - figure out where I want the supplied T that will cut into the vacuum line runs to the trunk for the BAP. Looks good here - cut it.
Grab the nylon T provided in the kit... COME ON... the Whipple vacuum line is 1/8" ID... the stupid gauge T is like 3/16" ID... trust me - no matter how much lube it does not fit. AND - it's got a threaded head for the STUPID compression fitting for the STUPID nylon tube the gauge provides.
No hardware store has 1/8" ID barbed fittings that will work... no car store has a 1/8" ID barbed fitting with a stupid threaded side for the stupid compressing fitting.
I did get a 1/8" male-male fitting to "fix" the friggin line I cut so the BAP knows when to boost the pump... for now - I just have all the nylon tube for the gauge in the cabin and I blow on it to move the needle to pretend it works then I take it out of my mouth and yell "Boost this" - and point at my crotch.
I got my beer back from the midget I mentioned earlier - and this is what I'm doing tonight... and so far - it ain't looking good for finding this part... Wonder if Whipple could send me one via FedEx that could get lost...

 

[fishpick]

I have problems... not car problems... just mental ones...
I ordered the Whipple open / competition air box today (I think it will do a better job of keeping "slow speed" engine heat out of things anyhow) and scheduled a dyno time slot at a local tuner in May...
Ordered a pack of 10 T's from McMaster Carr - so if you are installing a mechanical pressure gauge on a Whipple Stage 3 and need a T with barbed 1/8" ID and a 1/8" threaded side too... I'm your guy. Those and whipple throttle body screws... I'm gonna open an odd parts emporium...

Still trying to figure out what wheel / tire combo to go with...

 

[RUgoinup?]

Where did you find this open competition air box? I guess that means it didn't come with an open air filter Like the picture shows on the S3 ad on Whipple's website!!!!?

 

[fishpick]

Where did you find this open competition air box? I guess that means it didn't come with an open air filter Like the picture shows on the S3 ad on Whipple's website!!!!?

Nope. The non-tuner kits (Stage 1,2,3) all have the enclosed air filter for 50
State emission compliance... but the "competition" airbox can be had with a nice call and a credit card.
I'll report back about the "slow drive" intake temps after I get and install... the thing is - once you put this on it's basically unrestricted air (like doing a pull without the airbox lid on) - so you have to watch the AFR closely - it's sold as a "you provide the tune" kit component... so, I'm gonna test it for ITAs without banging on the throttle - then decide if it's part of the dyno session in May for a tune revision or if it will just go in the "for sale" section.

Pics and data to follow.


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[fishpick]

I got the impression from a couple of folks who messaged me that they felt like my build and tune questions thread may have turned a bit negative...

Well - yesterday the open air box showed up for my 2012. Here it is.

This is a great reference picture of it for all you s550 owner's 2015 and up...

On the upside, they are sending me the correct one via FedEx 2 day so I can still make my scheduled dyno / tuning session on May 11th.

I decided to not use either of the remote tuners Whipple said they know people use a lot for various reasons. Instead I'm gonna use VMP - in the end it's not so much about the hardware as it is about the software - and their NA 93 octane tune I ran last summer was really REALLY impressive - especially with regards to the auto, which is probably my biggest annoyance right now. This Whipple tune stacks gears better than a professional wood cutter stacks wood (I just couldn't get a woodchuck joke to work here) - datalogs show sometimes it's in 5th by the time I hit 30... so - there's that.
It'll get there - all part of the build process.
And to the guys who told me I was getting negative - reread this thread and the other threads I linked out to... aside from my royal dicking up in requesting the wrong config in the first tune - the rest of my frustration has not been of my own making... I kinda think I have rolled with the flow pretty well!

 

[RUgoinup?]

VMP/auto is a wise choice. I appreciate your honesty and humor throughout this build. That's what these forums are supposed to be about. Sharing opinions and experiences. Not hiding them through private messaging.

 

[fishpick]

All is installed and the rain has mostly stopped here in NY as well... Hope to get out for some slower driving and see if this helps with the under hood IAT blower not gulping air cruise speed temps. Other than some gentle runs - just waiting to get on the dyno on the 11th for a remote session to fix the auto / more HP motor integration (and pull a little more out of the blower too, I'm sure).
Also out of the blue got a local lead on a dude with FFRP Touring Axlebacks - might do that too, supposed to be super deep / musical at idle and then not a earpopper at WOT... that would / should, I expect, end all the drone the blower added... (which seems to come and go btw, I think it may be air density related to be honest!)

 

[RUgoinup?]

Just wanted to let you know I got my car back this afternoon. It's idling flawlessly! Only issues at the moment are IAT's in the 138-124 range, 90 degree weather. System may have some air left in it. Probably buying the new larger Whipple HE regardless. Other issue is pretty cool...exhaust popping/backfiring during every shift. Noticed some black soot for the first time in the muffler tips so it's likely a rich tune (Whipple S3). I do have the side exhaust baffles open which contributes but never did it prior.

Power is amazing! And the tip-in power is exactly what this car needed. Was a little sluggish prior to the blower. 2nd gear is worthless, even easing into it. Rolling into 3rd is sick! The Michelin Pilot Super Sports are no match, but probably better than Pirellis.

I still have LTH, ID 1000's and a smaller pulley but I see no need for them and a custom tune anytime soon, especially with these tires. I may just try my luck with a DR, but I'm not sure how much that would help on the street, with plenty of rainy days here.

Oh, I did change the fuel pump fuse to a 25 which is what the manual calls for with the GT500. There was a spare in the passengers kick panel fuse box so I used that.

All in all I'm very happy with the kit and the installation. Yes it was a long wait. But it was so worth it!

 

[fishpick]

Just wanted to let you know I got my car back this afternoon. It's idling flawlessly!

Terrific - the red looks great on your car! It sure is a sharp kit when in color! (you need the carbon fiber intake tube) I have had no idle issues since I fixed my dickup and got the right tune for the big TB.

Only issues at the moment are IAT's in the 138-124 range, 90 degree weather. System may have some air left in it. Probably buying the new larger Whipple HE regardless. Other issue is pretty cool...exhaust popping/backfiring during every shift.

As for the high IAT's - could be some air in the system, sure. For me - the IAT's are easily 40-50 over ambient (like yours) when just cruising mostly and there's not a ton of airflow. It's because at that point the SC is in bypass and the air is NOT going through the internal IC... so you are just seeing the temps of the air under the hood. But if you give it some gas, generate boost, close the bypass - your temps plummet - because the SC IC is doing it's thing. I have seen 137F IAT's and then popped the cap on the IC filler neck and the coolant is "cool"... That's why I opted for the open air box to see if I could get more "fresh" air into the system... after a single ride with it - it MIGHT give me 5 degrees back - maybe... with one data point - I'm not calling that conclusive. I am going to be modifying my grille soon to let more air directly into the system as well (drill bits and dremel tips).

Noticed some black soot for the first time in the muffler tips so it's likely a rich tune (Whipple S3). I do have the side exhaust baffles open which contributes but never did it prior.

YES - totally agree - the tune is way rich IMHO (they are keeping it safe) - I have diesel like soot on my tips after 200-ish miles with the kit.

Power is amazing! And the tip-in power is exactly what this car needed. Was a little sluggish prior to the blower. 2nd gear is worthless, even easing into it. Rolling into 3rd is sick!

Ok - you are a manual as it's a Boss, right? I think that matters with the kit tune a TON... The guy Paul on here says exactly what you are saying too... yesterday when I took the car out for a spin, I was gently accelerating and in 4th before 30, even the stock tune wasn't that lame... the car forces a shift at 2k with the throttle anywhere other than 3/4 to WOT... so that's where I'm "losing" all the power - things never get a chance to spool up... so when you manual guys are excited about tip-ins... I'm busy slogging through the gears with a barely locked up converter... 1000% sure a real tune will help me more than words can say.

The Michelin Pilot Super Sports are no match, but probably better than Pirellis.

I do have to ask - are you finding 1st and 2nd worthless w/ traction control off and slamming it WOT - or are you finding it worthless w/ TC on and somewhere in the mid-RPM range? I'm trying to understand when all you guys say this thing throws so much power to the pavement HOW you are driving it...

I still have LTH, ID 1000's and a smaller pulley but I see no need for them and a custom tune anytime soon, especially with these tires. I may just try my luck with a DR, but I'm not sure how much that would help on the street, with plenty of rainy days here.

I suppose the upside of my current experience is my Goodyear Eagle LS2 tires that were new from the dealer when I bought her used last year seem to work just fine...

 

[RUgoinup?]

Thank you! The carbon fiber looks great in yours. Not sure if I'll add more red or do the CF.

That's makes sense in regard to high IAT's. I was surprised that the box was open at the bottom, unlike the stock box.

The rich tune doesn't bother me one bit. I'm using 1/2 can of torco with 10 gallons of 93. Not needed but it's insurance against a bad tank. I may use a half can each tankful. I'm going to put the baffles back in for now to quiet it down some.

Yes. It's a B302 M6. I've used VMP on 2 autos before. Best tuner I've used. Might take a couple of revisions but you'll be happy.

Traction control on. Didn't try 1st. Was worthless NA (3.73). 2nd was a hit at 3K.

After your tune, your tires will be worthless too. Be careful though. Autos get away from you fast.

 

[Dreams2Reality]

Power is amazing! And the tip-in power is exactly what this car needed. Was a little sluggish prior to the blower. 2nd gear is worthless, even easing into it. Rolling into 3rd is sick! The Michelin Pilot Super Sports are no match, but probably better than Pirellis.

Car and blower look great!

I wanted to add my two cents on tires....I picked up a set of Nitto NT555 G2s (305-35-20) and I've been pretty happy so far with how they are handling the power. 1st and 2nd are still tough but I think the G2s are a better street option than the nitto drag radials, which unless heated, can spin a ton and also suck in the rain.

 

[fishpick]

...1st and 2nd are still tough...

You manual or auto - whipple's tune or someone else's?

I'm gonna put a fiver you are a manual

 

[Dreams2Reality]

You manual or auto - whipple's tune or someone else's?

I'm gonna put a fiver you are a manual

Manual, and custom dyno tune