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Ok, so I said 900rwhp, it's actually 899.22/722 at this time, but I'm only limited by the ID1000 injectors... The only thing stopping me from going to the ID1300's and hitting 1050-1100rwhp is motivation.... just for full disclosure. Car is located in Frisco, TX, just north of Dallas. Clear title in hand. Please no trades, unless you just so happen to have a 2013 Cadillac CTS-V 4 door auto….
I'm putting out a feeler/for sale on my black/black 2013 GT Premium. I bought this car at 5000mi and it was bone stock. It's now sitting at 7900mi and is far from bone stock, as you may have guessed. I've put every top of the line part on this thing I can think of and have sunk over $30k into this car above and beyond what I paid for it. It's a toy so it's not being driven on a daily basis, but I put on 50mi here and there.
There is a very extensive list of mods to this car, all have been purchased new by me. This car is tuned by Daniel at TSS in Orange, TX, and I will say that it drives "almost" stock when you're not in it, but get in it and hold on. You are welcome to come check it out in person, and test drive it with a substantial deposit. I don't really have to sell it, I'm just eyeing the next toy, so my price is pretty firm, which is $46,000. I've got WELL over $60k in this.
Hasn't been tracked since almost stock last October(has only made 3 passes and all 12.2@115), has been a leisure street car that has seen a few spirited pulls on the highway. If you want a low 9 second car, here you go. If you want 8sec, well throw some more money at it, but you’re almost there.
Engine, fuel, and power adder only have 500mi on them, and that’s probably on the high side.
Engine:
Houston Performance built short block 11:1 CR (e85)
- LA Sleeves interlocked sleeves (supports 1500+ rwhp)
- Oliver billet I-beam rods
- JE Pistons
- JE Rings
- Boss forged crank
- ARP head studs
- ARP mains
- ARP rod bolts
- line honed, finish bored and assembled
TSS billet oil pump gears
Boss valve springs
Power Adder:
Kenne Bell 3.6LC polished blower
8 rib kit
Currently at 17#, 3.75” pulley
4”, 3.5”, 3.25” pulleys included (easily 1050+ rwhp capable)
KB Mammoth 168mm throttle body
Fuel:
Return Fuel System (e85)
- CPe billet triple hat
- 2x Walbro 465lph pumps
- -8an feed, -6an return
- starlite lines
- inline filter
ID1000 injectors
VMP Boost-a-pump (still installed, can be removed now that fuel was upgraded)
Cooling:
Moroso Coolant tanks, powdercoated black (only one installed for now)
Kenne Bell heat exchanger
Driveline:
Shaftmaster 1pc aluminum driveshaft
McLeod RXT twin disc clutch w/ lightened steel flywheel
McLeod SS clutch line
ARP flywheel bolts
MGW Race Spec shifter for MT82
Suspension:
(all BMR is hammertone color)
BMR tubular a-arms
BMR a-arm support brace
BMR radiator support
BMR chassis brace
BMR front/rear sway bars
BMR adjustable panhard rod
BMR upper control mount
BMR adjustable upper control arm
BMR springs
BMR lower control arms
BMR lower control arm brackets
BMR tubular k member
Koni yellows
Brembo fronts w/ 14" rotors
Hawk Ceramic Pads
BMR driveshaft loop
Ground Control CC plates
Exhaust:
ARH 1 7/8"x3 long tube headers
ARH offroad H pipe
Mangnaflow street catback
Wheels/Tires:
Forgestar CF10 w/ carbon fiber center cap
Front: 20x9.5
265/35/20 Nitto 555
Rear: 20x11
305/35r20 555R
Others:
CDC Performance Grille
Rear catch can (mounted in front of the gas tank with two hoses to vent tubes)
NGK Iridium IX spark plugs
MGW Shift knob
Boss shifter boot
Redline hood struts
Aeroforce gauge
Autometer cobalt boost gauge
SOS A-pillar pod
Short billet antennae
Covercraft deluxe fitted 3 layer cover
Emblem pros “Punisher” faux gas cap cover
15% tint on all windows
PM for more info, email rconnallyATgmailDOTcom or text 214.5zero0.18one8
For full disclosure….
Cons:
There are a couple very light scratches, the car could use a good clay bar and wax
The bump stops can use just a tad more cutting down, and the front suspension makes a little excessive noise – I think it just needs to be adjusted a bit more
I’m sure I’m forgetting a few things, but here you go. And lastly, here are some pics - which aren't that great, I can take far more for seriously interested parties.
**DYNO VIDEO** http://vid294.photobucket.com/album...B-9126-4477-8DC0-BE9C7B3EC388_zpswhsl87ag.mp4
Ok, so I said 900rwhp, it's actually 899.22/722 at this time, but I'm only limited by the ID1000 injectors... The only thing stopping me from going to the ID1300's and hitting 1050-1100rwhp is motivation.... just for full disclosure. Car is located in Frisco, TX, just north of Dallas. Clear title in hand. Please no trades, unless you just so happen to have a 2013 Cadillac CTS-V 4 door auto….
I'm putting out a feeler/for sale on my black/black 2013 GT Premium. I bought this car at 5000mi and it was bone stock. It's now sitting at 7900mi and is far from bone stock, as you may have guessed. I've put every top of the line part on this thing I can think of and have sunk over $30k into this car above and beyond what I paid for it. It's a toy so it's not being driven on a daily basis, but I put on 50mi here and there.
There is a very extensive list of mods to this car, all have been purchased new by me. This car is tuned by Daniel at TSS in Orange, TX, and I will say that it drives "almost" stock when you're not in it, but get in it and hold on. You are welcome to come check it out in person, and test drive it with a substantial deposit. I don't really have to sell it, I'm just eyeing the next toy, so my price is pretty firm, which is $46,000. I've got WELL over $60k in this.
Hasn't been tracked since almost stock last October(has only made 3 passes and all 12.2@115), has been a leisure street car that has seen a few spirited pulls on the highway. If you want a low 9 second car, here you go. If you want 8sec, well throw some more money at it, but you’re almost there.
Engine, fuel, and power adder only have 500mi on them, and that’s probably on the high side.
Engine:
Houston Performance built short block 11:1 CR (e85)
- LA Sleeves interlocked sleeves (supports 1500+ rwhp)
- Oliver billet I-beam rods
- JE Pistons
- JE Rings
- Boss forged crank
- ARP head studs
- ARP mains
- ARP rod bolts
- line honed, finish bored and assembled
TSS billet oil pump gears
Boss valve springs
Power Adder:
Kenne Bell 3.6LC polished blower
8 rib kit
Currently at 17#, 3.75” pulley
4”, 3.5”, 3.25” pulleys included (easily 1050+ rwhp capable)
KB Mammoth 168mm throttle body
Fuel:
Return Fuel System (e85)
- CPe billet triple hat
- 2x Walbro 465lph pumps
- -8an feed, -6an return
- starlite lines
- inline filter
ID1000 injectors
VMP Boost-a-pump (still installed, can be removed now that fuel was upgraded)
Cooling:
Moroso Coolant tanks, powdercoated black (only one installed for now)
Kenne Bell heat exchanger
Driveline:
Shaftmaster 1pc aluminum driveshaft
McLeod RXT twin disc clutch w/ lightened steel flywheel
McLeod SS clutch line
ARP flywheel bolts
MGW Race Spec shifter for MT82
Suspension:
(all BMR is hammertone color)
BMR tubular a-arms
BMR a-arm support brace
BMR radiator support
BMR chassis brace
BMR front/rear sway bars
BMR adjustable panhard rod
BMR upper control mount
BMR adjustable upper control arm
BMR springs
BMR lower control arms
BMR lower control arm brackets
BMR tubular k member
Koni yellows
Brembo fronts w/ 14" rotors
Hawk Ceramic Pads
BMR driveshaft loop
Ground Control CC plates
Exhaust:
ARH 1 7/8"x3 long tube headers
ARH offroad H pipe
Mangnaflow street catback
Wheels/Tires:
Forgestar CF10 w/ carbon fiber center cap
Front: 20x9.5
265/35/20 Nitto 555
Rear: 20x11
305/35r20 555R
Others:
CDC Performance Grille
Rear catch can (mounted in front of the gas tank with two hoses to vent tubes)
NGK Iridium IX spark plugs
MGW Shift knob
Boss shifter boot
Redline hood struts
Aeroforce gauge
Autometer cobalt boost gauge
SOS A-pillar pod
Short billet antennae
Covercraft deluxe fitted 3 layer cover
Emblem pros “Punisher” faux gas cap cover
15% tint on all windows
PM for more info, email rconnallyATgmailDOTcom or text 214.5zero0.18one8
For full disclosure….
Cons:
There are a couple very light scratches, the car could use a good clay bar and wax
The bump stops can use just a tad more cutting down, and the front suspension makes a little excessive noise – I think it just needs to be adjusted a bit more
I’m sure I’m forgetting a few things, but here you go. And lastly, here are some pics - which aren't that great, I can take far more for seriously interested parties.
**DYNO VIDEO** http://vid294.photobucket.com/album...B-9126-4477-8DC0-BE9C7B3EC388_zpswhsl87ag.mp4
Last edited:
