Ford GT Block

Ryushin

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Maybe by the time I need to build my engine, probably in about 18 months or so, the FR Boss 5.0 block will be released in Aluminum.

The SSC has 5 levels and I have to race each level in order to go to the next level. I may find that the 2nd to last level, the Super Sport division (180+ with 180 mph to be the average target speed) to be all my adrenal glands can handle. Who knows.

But yea, the safety equipment might be a pain in the later classes. I don't need a roll cage until the SS division. Though I do need a roll bar for the 2nd and 3rd division.

So I think this is doable. Just need to do more research.
 

Jimmysidecarr

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Maybe by the time I need to build my engine, probably in about 18 months or so, the FR Boss 5.0 block will be released in Aluminum.

The SSC has 5 levels and I have to race each level in order to go to the next level. I may find that the 2nd to last level, the Super Sport division (180+ with 180 mph to be the average target speed) to be all my adrenal glands can handle. Who knows.

But yea, the safety equipment might be a pain in the later classes. I don't need a roll cage until the SS division. Though I do need a roll bar for the 2nd and 3rd division.

So I think this is doable. Just need to do more research.


A well built twin screw(new screw design 2.3 Whipple or a 3.4 or one of the KB offerings) 4.6 engine with 2618 racing pistons at a more reasonable piston to wall clearance in a Teksid or even a stock terminator block should be more than up to the task.

Fully ducted cooling(including fully ducted hood IE: tiger racing) and a LARGE air to oil oil cooler will be key however.
Fuel delivery over kill and a near 10 to one A/F ratio will go a long way in keeping piston temps manageable.
Race gas will be needed for competition high boost usage and then you can pulley down for street gas.

Evans waterless coolant would be a good idea also.(you can leave that in:rockon:)
 

Jimmysidecarr

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there's been an aluminum big-bore block available for several years now. M-6010-T50.


That's a nice piece, the FR500 bare block.
It seems all the max effort applications I see it being used in are N/A though.

Unique head gaskets from FRPP and a head stud kit may give better clamping results than the Darton sleeve block guys have been experiencing.

Certainly a viable option.:rockon::beer:
 

Ryushin

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Okay, I want to resurrect this thread. I read about all the failures of the aluminator, mostly due to them not put the crank in right and other things lead me to believe that it's not the engine for me. Maybe the block is as strong as a teksid, maybe it's not.

The Ford GT motor seems like a true racing motor. Oil squirters, two injectors per cylinder, etc. I've seen some gigantic horsepower numbers with this engine and I've never heard of a failure. Ford now makes a wet sump version of the engine:
http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=10443

Considering I'm looking at running 180 mph plus for 90 miles or 30 minutes if you want to look at it that way, having an engine that can handle the abuse, keep cool, is paramount for me. I'm also going to take the brick that is our car to Bonneville. I want to crack cleanly into 210+ or better. With the extra displacement, cooling of aluminum, and turbo's, I feel I can get there. I feel, by the time I'm done, and 25-30K later, I should be there.

Shelbyguy mentioned that there is problems with the accessories not facing the right direction. I wonder if the wetsump version of the block fixes those problems or not. I'm not sure. Does anyone have any experience in this new block, or should I start talking with the engine builders at this point?
 

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