Ford Racing springs problem/question

paul w

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Hey guys -

For some reason, I can't log into my old account and was forced to create a new one today. Here's my question: I had the following mods installed on my 2013 GT500 with track pack:

Ford Racing Lowering Springs
Cortex Racing Watts Link
Cortex Racing LCA
Cortex Racing Torque Arm
Camber plates

Here's the problem. The Bilstein electronic dampeners will stay in sport mode for the most part, until i come to a complete stop. Then the signal will change back to normal but usually will revert back to sport once the car gets moving. If i start the car in normal mode, it usually takes a little bit of rough road or a hard pull for the system to go into sport mode and lock there.
Any idea why and is there a solution?

Thanks so much fellas,
Paul
 
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biminiLX

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Probably need to double check the electronics on each Bilstein, that should be the only electrical component disturbed in that installation and would cause the symptoms you're having.
Hope they didn't damage any, VERY expensive dampers.
-J
 

13 Cobra Toy

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Like biminiLX said check the wires. The shocks are set to sport mode without a power supply.
 

13 Cobra Toy

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Wouldn't be lack of power, as the shocks revert back to normal when the car is not moving.

Static... no power supply = sport mode. I think one of the wires is shorted or has a bad connection. Arm chair diagnosis...
 

MovingZen

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Mine are disconnected and the light bounces back and forth between normal and sport mode all the time.. I'd go with loose wire also.
 

Bad Company

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Hopefully it is a lose wire and not a broken wire. I have the exact combination of parts on my car and I don't have any problems with the electronic dampers while using these parts.
 

Snoopy49

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Static... no power supply = sport mode. I think one of the wires is shorted or has a bad connection. Arm chair diagnosis...

Vehicle Dynamic Suspension

The VDM is connected to the HS-CAN to communicate with the ABS module, the PCM and other systems. The VDM also monitors the solenoid circuits and sets DTCs when a concern with a circuit or a solenoid is detected. The ride control switch is hardwired to the PCM. Pressing the switch sends a signal to the PCM which then sends a message to the IPC over the HS-CAN . The IPC relays that message to the VDM and the VDM adjusts the valve solenoids as requested.

The two modes are Sport (off) and Normal (on). Normal mode is activated by applying constant voltage and varying the PWM duty cycle to get the desired current. When the current is applied, the solenoid magnet opens a sliding valve allowing fluid to flow through the "comfort" piston. This results in a more compliant (softer) suspension feel. Sport mode is activated by removing the voltage from the valve solenoid.

During an ESC event, the ABS module will send messages to the VDM over the HS-CAN requesting suspension adjustment to aid in maintaining vehicle stability. Also, the VDM will monitor vehicle speed and when a certain vehicle speed is achieved, the VDM will change to sport mode to aid in maintaining vehicle stability.
 

1FASFKR

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Probably need to double check the electronics on each Bilstein, that should be the only electrical component disturbed in that installation and would cause the symptoms you're having.
Hope they didn't damage any, VERY expensive dampers.
-J

Imo if damage occurred to a dampener, it would have to be during the installation of the camber plates and springs. There was no reason to touch the wiring or dampeners during the installation of my exact same Cortex set up.
 

biminiLX

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True you don't have to disturb the wiring during the install but I'm suggesting the wiring may have been pulled, moved, etc and the damper electronics are the only explanation to his symptoms I can come up with.
-J
 

1FASFKR

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Ya I agree there. Wiring could have been pulled, moved, pinched, not fully put back in place, etc. Can a voltage reading be taken on the end of the wiring to the dampener when normal mode is activated?
 

Tob

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Perform a wiggle test at each damper location as well as a thorough inspection of the pigtails. Look very closely at the base of each front strut. If, when performing the spring installation the installer set or dropped the strut on its end, he could have very likely severed (or nearly severed) the wiring exiting the strut bottom. You'll have to slide the protective sheathing back in order to take a closer look.


IMG_1475_zpscd1828ff.jpg


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IMG_1493_zps9ad6b9a7.jpg



In addition, check the top of the rear shocks to ensure that the factory harness is oriented correctly and seated all the way on the top of the shock. The pins are very small and difficult to see when installed on the vehicle. Someone may have made an error here as well.

IMG_1469_zps8fa42bcd.jpg


IMG_1558a_zps186b9321.jpg


IMG_2153.jpg
 

tomshep

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I concur with the others on the wires. Tob's pics above are great. Keep in mind, the strut wire is at the bottom and they could have easily compromised that connection. The rear shocks are at the TOP of the shock and I can't think of a reason they would have needed to get near that area with the parts you listed.

In other words, focus your initial efforts on the struts.

Tom
 

landsteam

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Paul W,
Other then the problem you are having with the sport normal mode, how does the new suspension feel? Your car should handle great does it?
 

MovingZen

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I think Snoopy and Tob should have their own 'Technical discussion' subforum. You guys are always quick with some high quality info. :beer:
 

paul w

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Paul W,
Other then the problem you are having with the sport normal mode, how does the new suspension feel? Your car should handle great does it?

First off, thanks everyone for the wonderful posts, especially the photos. You guys are amazing. I'm taking a look at the wires today before heading to Poconos for a 2 day HPDE event.

As for the suspension, it's amazing. The car is much more planted, easier to power out and more predictable . The best description overall; more characteristics of a point and shoot, rather than being sloppy. Yes, she's still heavy but much more controllable now on the track than stock. Body roll is still evident but it's minor in comparison to stock. This is my 2nd season on the track. Last year the car was stock except for brake lines, RBF600 and pads. Since this season has begun, I've become comfortable with her upgrades and IMHO, worth every penny if you go to the track. I eat through front tires (super sports) like crazy, mind you. I added Maximum Motersport camber plates which added about -2.5 camber. It's better than nothing but I'd like to get at least another degree. I've been chatting with Filip at Cortex about going coil-overs...
A good friend of mine is an instructor for SCDA, among others. He's been racing for over 15 years and has a Lotus Elise, which is a hornet of a car on the track (189 hp weighing about 1900 lbs and super low to the ground). We ran together at Thunderbolt a few weeks back and he was watching my car very, very carefully. He mentioned the slight body roll yet reminding me it's not a full on race car. He was overly impressed on how she handled for her size/weight and loved me powering out of an apex and catching all those M3's, 911's and Caymans. In the end, his best time was 1:38 and I was 1:41. 3 seconds is an eternity on the track but considering he's got 15 years under his belt and I have 1, I couldn't whine too much.

Again, thanks everyone and I'll keep you updated on figuring out those pesky Bilsteins.
 
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