Fore 4v 1 LE

[MG0h3]

Really doubt it’s your fuel system.

Any fuel system is just a delivery mechanism.

Did you only upgrade the fuel system resulting in the driveability problems or were there other mods done?

Who tuned it and what do they have to say?


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[Davisenvy]

Only the fuel system was done and then dyno tuned. These guys are very well known so I'm guessing it was the fuel system. The car ran great before the work was done and now, not so much. First they said vacuum leak, then bad tps, then everything is perfect. Still in the process of getting things ironed out, 6 weeks and 2 visits later.

 

[gotjack]

Only the fuel system was done and then dyno tuned. These guys are very well known so I'm guessing it was the fuel system. The car ran great before the work was done and now, not so much. First they said vacuum leak, then bad tps, then everything is perfect. Still in the process of getting things ironed out, 6 weeks and 2 visits later.

Why did you decide on the new fuel system upgrade? What was your current set up before?


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[Davisenvy]

I have a VMP TVS 2.3 ported and the shop recommended a fuel system with the dyno tune. They said around the 650hp mark defueling at WOT shifts can happen so I had them install the FORE L1 and a tune. Other than the TVS I have just the basic bolt ons, 4lb lower, CAI, Accufab TB , Kenne Bell BAP, VMP Email tune, etc. I had a GT that defueled at shifts and I HATED IT and didn't want it to happen on this car.

 

[gotjack]

I have a VMP TVS 2.3 ported and the shop recommended a fuel system with the dyno tune. They said around the 650hp mark defueling at WOT shifts can happen so I had them install the FORE L1 and a tune. Other than the TVS I have just the basic bolt ons, 4lb lower, CAI, Accufab TB , Kenne Bell BAP, VMP Email tune, etc. I had a GT that defueled at shifts and I HATED IT and didn't want it to happen on this car.

Wait you still have your benne bell bap installed with your fore system? Is that even possible? Or you have bap before ?


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[MG0h3]

Either way, the shop has failed you.

Not your fuel system.

Blame them. Clearly they don’t know what’s going on when they rattle off misc problems that mysteriously resolve themselves.

Tell them to fix it or find someone who can.


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[01yellercobra]

I'm not sure if it's the FORE L1 or the dyno tune, but I had this installed a couple months ago and I'm having a surging idle, hard cold start, and bucking at slow speeds like a big cam car. There's another member on there with the surging issue also. This is just my experience and I'm still trying to sort out the problems. As of now, I regret my decision.

It's the tune. I'm pretty sure I said the same thing to the other guy too.

So VMP installed the fuel system and tuned it? Or did another shop install the fuel system and then got an email tune from VMP?

 

[01yellercobra]

Wait you still have your benne bell bap installed with your fore system? Is that even possible? Or you have bap before ?


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I don't see why you couldn't run a BAP in a return style system. It's just a voltage booster.

That being said, it shouldn't be needed with an upgraded system.

 

[Davisenvy]

The BAP and VMP email tune is what I had going into this project and the car ran like a top. I figured a dyno tune would be better than an email tune so I had a shop a little closer to home do the dyno tune and fuel system. I want to make sure this shop can or is able to fix the problems before putting their name out there. $3,900 later has me a little disappointed .

Sorry OP for hijacking your thread.

 

[MG0h3]

Whoa. Ok the whole system is like $1500.

We’ve seen these stories before. Your shop doesn’t know what they’re doing. I don’t care how respected you think they are/were. Fact is, you paid a lot of money for what’s a fairly straight forward job. Your engine doesn’t care or know if it has a return or return less system.

They returned a car that doesn’t run right.

I’d contact one of the remote tuners on here.

04Sleeper
MalcolmV8; not on much.


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[Davisenvy]

I had my email tune updated for the Fore install and it's doing the same thing my dyno tune is doing. The EXACT same thing. I'm really leaning towards the fuel system being the culprit.

 

[MG0h3]

I had my email tune updated for the Fore install and it's doing the same thing my dyno tune is doing. The EXACT same thing. I'm really leaning towards the fuel system being the culprit.

While it is almost 100% likely that it’s something your shop did, what part of the fuel system do you think is causing this?

Electric wiring
Pumps
Hoses
Regulator

The fact that they can’t figure it out says all you need to know.


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[01yellercobra]

I'd be curious to know if the shop left the FPDM in place. When I installed my buddies system I set it up using Malcolm's thread to keep the stock priming set up. I gave him a base file and all was good. He went to his shop to get the dyno tuned and as soon as they flashed it, it started surging at idle. The tuner didn't want to deal with changing his tune, so he rewired the pumps to run full time.

 

[MG0h3]

I'd be curious to know if the shop left the FPDM in place. When I installed my buddies system I set it up using Malcolm's thread to keep the stock priming set up. I gave him a base file and all was good. He went to his shop to get the dyno tuned and as soon as they flashed it, it started surging at idle. The tuner didn't want to deal with changing his tune, so he rewired the pumps to run full time.

I’m set up the Malcolm way with the FPDM. Remote tuned by Kevin.

Been running like a top since. Must be 6yrs now


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[03' White Snake]

I had my email tune updated for the Fore install and it's doing the same thing my dyno tune is doing. The EXACT same thing. I'm really leaning towards the fuel system being the culprit.

Let's start with the basics.

When you turn the key on, do the pumps stay running? If so, what pressure are you seeing on the fuel pressure gauge? With the car running and up to temp, the fuel pressure should be 40 or just above. If you cannot get the car to run, just set the pressure at 45 to start.

Locate the fuel filter, check the direction on the outside, they are usually marked a direction. Make sure they have it installed correctly.

Follow the fuel lines under the car, especially in the back from the tank, check for kinks in the lines or if the lines are crushed. It is really hard and time consuming to raise the tank and feed the lines at the same time and not kink them. This is even more prominent if you are running PTFE lined hoses. You kink the line, it should be replaced.

Describe what the you mean the car is running like crap. Not starting, surging, won't idle, dies out, stutters if you touch the gas, not drivable at all, etc.

 

[01yellercobra]

I’m set up the Malcolm way with the FPDM. Remote tuned by Kevin.

Been running like a top since. Must be 6yrs now


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I originally had mine done that way too. I switched it up when I went stand alone. I still have it set to prime like factory though.

 

[Davisenvy]

The pumps start running as soon as the key on, but engine not running. Fuel pressure is at 40 psi with the key on and at 30 psi when the engine is running( by the gauge under the hood). I'll have to go out tomorrow and check the fuel lines and filter.

I do not see the FPDM in the back drivers side of the trunk.

When I say the car is running like crap, I mean it is hard to start when its cold. I have to feather the throttle like an old carb engine for the first 30 sec or so to keep it running. If it does stall, when I restart it tons of smoke comes out.

Second, the drivability is terrible. The throttle on/off feels like a switch. If I'm in traffic in the first 3 gears the car will buck if I try to just maintain a speed and driving through my neighborhood is impossible to keep from bucking without using the clutch at any rpm.

Third, I have idle surge. It usually doesn't start until the car is warmed up and mostly happens when I come to a stop.

Fourth, at WOT my car looks like I'm rolling coal. I know fuel is added, but it looks like a diesel truck.

Fifth, stumble at idle. Might be part of the surge problem.

The shop has had the car a second time and their second attempt at the car has lessened the above problems by maybe %25, but they are far from fixed. I feel like there is a mechanical problem (tps, vacuum leak, fuel line) that they are trying to tune around. They also unhooked my Steeda oil catch can because it was causing the car to surge. I saw it bypassed when I got home. When I hooked it back up, the surge did worsen, but when unhooked it lessens the surge, but doesn't fix it.
My car ran like a top with the BAP, and VMP tune. Something is wrong and it's making me sick.

 

[2003RedfireVert]

Case in point as to why shops never touch my car. If it’s end being the system, it’s was install error. The install on these are easy. Something isn’t adding up

 

[MG0h3]

What’s wrong is the shop you took it to. You just need to accept that and move along.

Find a new shop.

Have them fix it.

Take the bill to the old shop. If they don’t pay that bill, destroy them on every site you can.


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[03' White Snake]

The pumps start running as soon as the key on, but engine not running. Fuel pressure is at 40 psi with the key on and at 30 psi when the engine is running( by the gauge under the hood). I'll have to go out tomorrow and check the fuel lines and filter.

I do not see the FPDM in the back drivers side of the trunk.

When I say the car is running like crap, I mean it is hard to start when its cold. I have to feather the throttle like an old carb engine for the first 30 sec or so to keep it running. If it does stall, when I restart it tons of smoke comes out.

Second, the drivability is terrible. The throttle on/off feels like a switch. If I'm in traffic in the first 3 gears the car will buck if I try to just maintain a speed and driving through my neighborhood is impossible to keep from bucking without using the clutch at any rpm.

Third, I have idle surge. It usually doesn't start until the car is warmed up and mostly happens when I come to a stop.

Fourth, at WOT my car looks like I'm rolling coal. I know fuel is added, but it looks like a diesel truck.

Fifth, stumble at idle. Might be part of the surge problem.

The shop has had the car a second time and their second attempt at the car has lessened the above problems by maybe %25, but they are far from fixed. I feel like there is a mechanical problem (tps, vacuum leak, fuel line) that they are trying to tune around. They also unhooked my Steeda oil catch can because it was causing the car to surge. I saw it bypassed when I got home. When I hooked it back up, the surge did worsen, but when unhooked it lessens the surge, but doesn't fix it.
My car ran like a top with the BAP, and VMP tune. Something is wrong and it's making me sick.

30 psi is too low when running. Bump it up to 40.

Post some pictures of the engine how they ran the regulator and lines. I’d like to see the vacuum/ boost lines too. If you have a hand vacuum pump, you can plug it into the line that comes from firewall on passenger side (this isolates the engine vacuum harness, need to pinch off the vacuum line from rear lower intake too). Pull vacuum and see if it holds. If it does not then you have a vacuum leak.

Also for giggles, check the maf is plugged in and the wires are not messed up or pinched.