forged short-block, what did you guys do?

[jeffs]

Several options

• boss internals, local machine shop balance rotating assembly
• aftermarket internals, local machine shop build / balance
• aftermarket short-block (which vendor)
• L&M seems like you should have sleeves too by the time you pay? (AKA) kinda expensive.
• modular head shop has a good looking site for parts, and short-block, but have heard horror stories
• local machinist is good, but afraid of the wait with everything apart for too long, but price-point is good, and no extra lump of Coyote short-block sitting around taking up space.

So what did you do, and would you do it again? I posted here in power adders because of CPR coming hopefully soon!

 

[ryan03svt]

What's your power goals with the car? I also have a CPR car and I'm in the same boat. Not sure how I want to approach building the motor. My mindset is build it once so I don't need to keep taking the motor out add more things (like sleeves).

 

[jeffs]

What's your power goals with the car? I also have a CPR car and I'm in the same boat. Not sure how I want to approach building the motor. My mindset is build it once so I don't need to keep taking the motor out add more things (like sleeves).

I'd like to think 800rwhp, and single digit quarter mile times would be good enough, but as of yet (43 years old) I almost know better hahaha. That RGR outfit, that's through JPCracing sounds pretty darn good, just send them my existing motor, and get back a sleeved / built motor for a reasonable price is where I'm leaning. On the other hand, I have a friend with a turbo Coyote Fox that he just simply put boss pistons, 15-17 rods, had it balanced and that thing rocks over 15psi all of the time, and flies down the track again, and again, maybe he's onto something, lol?

I'm really at a loss right now, because my Paxton's hurt, and I don't know if I want to continue racing the thing how it is, and I'm considering doing all this motor stuff this year while I wait on my CPR kit, instead of this winter after racing season ends, as I might just throw in the towel this year for racing, and just get to work

 

[rustang1]

I think I've pretty much decided to get an aluminator short block. That'll be good for 850-900 whp and that's a strong street car engine. I have a set of heads and that will make a shorter downtime.
I'll either sell my current long block or keep it for a spare and maybe build an all-out sleeved motor a little at a time if need be.

I don't know what I'll decide to do tomorrow.

 

[ryan03svt]

I always liked the idea of buying a used longblock out of a crashed mustang or f150 and have that built to keep the downtime on my car to a minimum. Then sell my used long block to make back some of the money. Car is perfectly healthy I'm just getting bored of 650 horses haha. I like the RGR stuff, L&M is also not far from me. Too many decisions to make!

 

[Reaper14]

When the time comes for me to upgrade I was thinking of a full 15+ long block so that I can keep mine. Unless I really mess it up.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G928A using the svtperformance.com mobile app

 

[jeffs]

I always liked the idea of buying a used longblock out of a crashed mustang or f150 and have that built to keep the downtime on my car to a minimum. Then sell my used long block to make back some of the money. Car is perfectly healthy I'm just getting bored of 650 horses haha. I like the RGR stuff, L&M is also not far from me. Too many decisions to make!

Something that I found out this morning looking through Tasca's parts, is that boss 302, 2015+ F150, and 15+ Mustang 5.0 Coyotes all have the same rods, or at least the same part number for the rods, the older 11-14 have a different number, and are probably shared with the 11-14 Mustang, but just something to consider if you find a 15+ F150 motor.

 

[jeffs]

I think I've pretty much decided to get an aluminator short block. That'll be good for 850-900 whp and that's a strong street car engine. I have a set of heads and that will make a shorter downtime.
I'll either sell my current long block or keep it for a spare and maybe build an all-out sleeved motor a little at a time if need be.

I don't know what I'll decide to do tomorrow.

From where have you web shopped so far?

 

[slow306stang]

L&M aluminator clone for me. I couldn't afford the extra 5k on top of an already expensive build for sleeves, better rods, pistons, ect. So far its treating me very well at 860whp.

My next engine will be sleeved for sure.

 

[jeffs]

L&M aluminator clone for me. I couldn't afford the extra 5k on top of an already expensive build for sleeves, better rods, pistons, ect. So far its treating me very well at 860whp.

My next engine will be sleeved for sure.

Are you about at the limit of your comfort level now at your hp? Pretty darn powerful imo!

 

[slow306stang]

Are you about at the limit of your comfort level now at your hp? Pretty darn powerful imo!

Yes, id say my setup would take low 800s reliably but its at the limit of the sleeves. That's not gonna stop me from trying to crack 900-950whp though. Plenty of aluminators have lived at more power than im making.

 

[tones_RS3]

On the other hand, I have a friend with a turbo Coyote Fox that he just simply put boss pistons, 15-17 rods, had it balanced and that thing rocks over 15psi all of the time, and flies down the track again, and again, maybe he's onto something, lol?

Those turbo Coyotes are no joke. lol
I was actually thinking of doing something similar. Keeping the stock block and just adding the forged internal kit, balanced and rock out 750rwhp-800rwhp. I'd be good with that. I don't go to the drag strips, just street use. Should be more than enough. lol
Great thread idea by the way!

 

[oldstv]

My 2 cents. If you are not going to the track or "racing" 800 hp is not nearly as much fun as 600 on the street. But that is just me.

 

[jeffs]

My 2 cents. If you are not going to the track or "racing" 800 hp is not nearly as much fun as 600 on the street. But that is just me.

I hear ya, trying to put down 600 on the street is quite the chore, but This car's only real street duty is back and forth to the track though, hahaha. I do agree with the street not needing / wanting much over 600, how'd you ever experience it besides with tire spin at will.

 

[jeffs]

Those turbo Coyotes are no joke. lol
I was actually thinking of doing something similar. Keeping the stock block and just adding the forged internal kit, balanced and rock out 750rwhp-800rwhp. I'd be good with that. I don't go to the drag strips, just street use. Should be more than enough. lol
Great thread idea by the way!

Thanks man, you should experience a turbo Coyote in a 3200lb fox, insanity! I rode in it with the stock converter, and stock bottom end pushing around 700wheel on C16, and it pretty much blew my mind, now it's built with the right converter, fancy boost controller, and it's just plain sick!

 

[Gruca]

So I just built mine myself (except the machine work I paid to have done). I used Manley h-beams, arp2000 bolts, new boss crank, and Manley 11:1 pistons. Everything forged.

In retrospect, had I not destroyed my OPGs, I would’ve just bought the built short block and called it a day. Building it myself was cool and all...and being able to triple check all the specs and timing and such seems like it would be a relief to know it’s correct, but it isn’t. You still second guess everything and are scared you messed up somewhere or forgot something.

I’d buy a sleeved short block, bolt up everything to it using ARP hardware, and call it a day. After buying all the parts, paying the machine shop, random shit breaking here and there, it adds up very quickly. I probably spent around $4,500 doing it myself, which includes the machine shop, the rotating assembly, and the random hardware and parts. Mine is not sleeved though.

 

[MRSUPRA]

MMR short block here.

 

[jeffs]

MMR short block here.

how do you like it, how were they to deal with? Lotsa horror stories floating the web about them, but realize how quickly bs can spread.

 

[11Sec_Lx]

I went with an Aluminator longblock, right before the switch Gen 2 Coyotes. Got in while they could be had for $7,500 and sold my stock engine with 8,000 miles on it for $4,000. All said and done I had about $4000 in my swap. This is my 4th year with it, making as little as 710 rwhp and now in the mid/upper 800's as I've added more boost from last year.

Mine is 99% street. It's turned up all the time. Sees weekend use. Gets wot every time I'm in it, but it's mostly a second gear pull.

I am currently saving for a replacement. Just to have at the ready if/when something happens. I don't plan to go further than here though, so who knows, maybe it has a long life ahead of it? I just wanna be prepared in case it does come apart.

 

[Recon]

NOS 3V Aluminator Block
Manley pistons
Manley rods
Kellogg crank
Roush P-51 shortblock, last one they had in their inventory. They haven’t sold the shortblock in several years, so I got really lucky.
Should be good for 800rwhp.


Pick your poison.