August 6/ my 2011 with a Roush blower is going to PBH to have the motor yanked and delivered to MPR. Tim Eichhorn is going to sleeve the stock block, add billet rods, Diamond pistons, etc.. I’m refusing my crank. Heads are getting a basic refresh.
Research using an engine builder to change the rotating assembly and reuse your stock block and crank. You can get a better piston than Mahle.I think I've pretty much decided to get an aluminator short block. That'll be good for 850-900 whp and that's a strong street car engine. I have a set of heads and that will make a shorter downtime.
I'll either sell my current long block or keep it for a spare and maybe build an all-out sleeved motor a little at a time if need be.
I don't know what I'll decide to do tomorrow.
Glad it worked out for you man!!Just did the first start up on my 2013 with Gen 2 short block last night. Stock bottom end was hurt, and I wanted a motor to hold 800 or reasonably safely and this was the easiest way to do it.
Gen 2 shortblock from Tasca was ~2300 (with core charge, need like core for deduction) so I still have my short block. Bought gasket kit and everything from him and just had my heads examined by local machine shop. I did OPG and sprocket while everything was out too.
I hesitated for a while because I thought the swap was difficult with the timing and everything but it really was so simple. Can't beat the bang for the buck on that set up. Stock block is still probably worth a couple bucks too.
g on it. It's on the 6 rib, 72mm pulley. Snapped a belt when the tuner let out, so I'm waiting on a billet tensioner to show up.
Thanks. Regarding the K-member, the NVH isn't bad at all. You only really notice it when accelerating from a stop. I used to have a GTI with motor and trans mounts and the NVH from that was way worse. Cant comment about rod end control arms as everything on my car is poly at the moment. May eventually switch to BMR's poly/rod end LCA's depending how long my whiteline LCA's hold up.Your car is going to rip big time. How bad is the NVH with your k-member. I’ll also be getting my car back soon. It will have a UPR k memeber and a new upper control arm with a rod end bushing. Hoping the nvh isn’t too much. It’s a street car that it will likely never see the track.
I was wondering the same. Keep seeing people ask same question on fb & most replies say they are no longer available.Are the 15-17 short blocks even still available?
The new bottom end sounds awesome. Good luck with it.I'm on round 2 for the short block build. I still haven't found the reason for the first failure but I should know in the next few weeks. The engine is tapping/knocking pretty loud and has a lot of aluminum in the oil filters. It runs fine with good oil pressure, passes a compression test, and tap/knock doesn't go away when unplugging coil packs one cylinder at a time. I parked the car back in the first week of September and have slowly been building the next engine.
L&M block is sleeved, reinforced, and head stud conversion
12:1 Compression Diamond Pistons
Manley I-Beam Rods
Boss Crank double keyway
Ported Heads with Pac Springs, bronze guides, Manley retainers and Ferrea valves
Exhaust Cams to match the L&M intake cams
You can't beat the price of the Gen 2 for that level of horsepowerMy stock block from my 11 decided to call it quits last week, I ordered Gen 2 SB for $1800. Was a no brainer at that price point.
Not looking to be over 800hp.
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Where did you get it for that price? Thought these were no longer for sale, or something along those linesMy stock block from my 11 decided to call it quits last week, I ordered Gen 2 SB for $1800. Was a no brainer at that price point.
Not looking to be over 800hp.
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