Front Spring Install Options?

[1 bad bullitt]

I have read over the "How to" on front springs several times, and I am prepared to use the "Compresor" method to do the front, i actually bought two compressors just in case, but I am still a little iffy about the safety of it.

I discoverd on the S197 and Modular Fords forums that a few guys were using a different method on the fronts that looked easier and actually a little safer to me. They are just removing the large nut on top that holds the strut assembly together, with the top mount still bolted up in the strut tower. Then they are lowering the control arm with a floor jack to release all the compression of the spring, as the spring/strut lower you can remove the two strut/spindle bolts and remove the strut/spring. Make sense?

Anybody done it this way on the GT500? The only problem I could see is that there might not be enoguh travel to release all the tension on the factory spring, then you are in a tight spot then.

 

[09Troublemaker]

I have read over the "How to" on front springs several times, and I am prepared to use the "Compresor" method to do the front, i actually bought two compressors just in case, but I am still a little iffy about the safety of it.

I discoverd on the S197 and Modular Fords forums that a few guys were using a different method on the fronts that looked easier and actually a little safer to me. They are just removing the large nut on top that holds the strut assembly together, with the top mount still bolted up in the strut tower. Then they are lowering the control arm with a floor jack to release all the compression of the spring, as the spring/strut lower you can remove the two strut/spindle bolts and remove the strut/spring. Make sense?

Anybody done it this way on the GT500? The only problem I could see is that there might not be enoguh travel to release all the tension on the factory spring, then you are in a tight spot then.

I stopped doing my own spring install and now use the same shop that can also check the alignment, etc.

Just not worth the hassel for a few bucks, IMO

 

[Leonard 95]

Using the spring tool isn't a big deal at all, I would just use the tool. When going back together on mine, I didn't even need to use the spring compressor to get the strut plate bolted back on, of course I used eibach sportlines.

 

[6-Speed]

How would you put the new springs back on?

I suggest taking the struts & springs to a local shop and pay them to replace the springs.

 

[1 bad bullitt]

How would you put the new springs back on?

I suggest taking the struts & springs to a local shop and pay them to replace the springs.

Like Leonard is saying with the shorter springs you don't even need the compressor to reassemble the strut assembly. I am not worried about getting them back together, thats the easy parts(I am going to sportlines as well btw)

Just do a quick google search on the dangers of using the spring compressors, when it goes wrong, it really goes wrong! Guys loosing fingers, etc, they can be very dangerous.

 

[1 bad bullitt]

Here is a quick video highlighting this strategy for those of you that think this is just too far out there and has no merrit. It seems safer to me, there is really not that much of a risk untensioning the springs while they are still on the car. I checked around and found that this method will give you enough play to remove the stock springs as well. I may be the guinnia and let everyone know how it works.
New Mustang Suspension Upgrades

 

[1 bad bullitt]

I stopped doing my own spring install and now use the same shop that can also check the alignment, etc.

Just not worth the hassel for a few bucks, IMO

Well alignment is pretty much a "have to get done in a shop" But if you get it aligned right after you install the springs, they will settle and you will have to do it again, best to wait a week or so before getting the car aligned.

 

[6-Speed]

Like Leonard is saying with the shorter springs you don't even need the compressor to reassemble the strut assembly. I am not worried about getting them back together, thats the easy parts(I am going to sportlines as well btw)

Just do a quick google search on the dangers of using the spring compressors, when it goes wrong, it really goes wrong! Guys loosing fingers, etc, they can be very dangerous.

I had to compress the Ford Racing springs. Yep there is a lot of energy stored in the springs.

 

[09Troublemaker]

Well alignment is pretty much a "have to get done in a shop" But if you get it aligned right after you install the springs, they will settle and you will have to do it again, best to wait a week or so before getting the car aligned.

yep, my rule of thumb is after a few hundred miles:beer:

 

[alloy500]

They are just removing the large nut on top that holds the strut assembly together, with the top mount still bolted up in the strut tower. Then they are lowering the control arm with a floor jack to release all the compression of the spring, as the spring/strut lower you can remove the two strut/spindle bolts and remove the strut/spring. Make sense?

That was the method I used when swapping my springs, and it worked quite well.
Compress the spring using the LCA with a small jack, remove the upper nut, slowly release the pressure with the small jack. One thing of note here, all spring tension, in my case, was not released, a very small amount was still applying pressure on the 2 lower strut bolts, which required tapping out with a hammer. Overall, it was a smooth procedure, installing the new springs is easier since they are shorter.
Hope this helps and remember to use logic and respect the sleeping giant that is bound up spring tension.

 

[1 bad bullitt]

That was the method I used when swapping my springs, and it worked quite well.
Compress the spring using the LCA with a small jack, remove the upper nut, slowly release the pressure with the small jack. One thing of note here, all spring tension, in my case, was not released, a very small amount was still applying pressure on the 2 lower strut bolts, which required tapping out with a hammer. Overall, it was a smooth procedure, installing the new springs is easier since they are shorter.
Hope this helps and remember to use logic and respect the sleeping giant that is bound up spring tension.

Thanks for confirmation, I expected there might be a slight bit of tesnion still on the two strut/spindle bolts, that actually makes it even safer knowing if the jack failed or something that the spring would not just shoot out of there.
I had seen a bit of conflicting info on wheter it was or was not nescesary to remove the tie rod ends from teh spindle, what did you do?

 

[alloy500]

I found no need to remove the tie rod ends just keep the jack under the LCA after tension is removed from the spring in order to support the LCA and be ready to support the spindle and keep it upright after the lower strut bolts are removed because the ball joint will be all thats connecting the spindle to the LCA, kind of a three handed step of the job but manageable!

 

[1 bad bullitt]

I used this method to install my springs this afternoon, and I can not express how much easier it is than using a compressor. I did not even remove the upper strut mounts. I was working all by myself and it was no problem getting the strut out or back in. I highly recomend this method to anyone wanting to do the front springs.