**GEN-3 Killer Chiller GB**
- Thread starter J.Kincaid
- Start date
- Status
Auto Zone thats where i got mine at.
Last edited:
I would think that it would be cooler with the HE since this would take out some of the heat before it hits the KC.
Can you explain why it will get close to freezing temps by removing the HE?
Can you explain why it will get close to freezing temps by removing the HE?
running the killer chiller gets the coolant down anywhere from 35-60 degrees .. the heat exchanger is no longer "removing heat" with this type of setup .. it actually is "adding heat" back to the coolant by allowing warm air to pass across the h/e with cold coolant inside the tubes
in a normal setup the heat exchanger removes some heat from the coolant ... but in the case of the killer chiller ... its doing the opposite, its warming the coolant back up more than if you were to just bypass it
Last edited:
What I don't understand is if you mount it.. So that the fluid hits the KC after it hits the heat exchanger.. How would the HE be adding heat to the system? Once the KC exchanger super cools the fluid, and it runs through the intercooler, would it not be heated close to or above ambient?
Nevermind I think I may have answered my own question.. Without the HE, coolant temps are below ambient after the IC, so then the run through the KC below ambient, and are cooled further, etc etc.. Where as the HE would try bring the temps up to ambient before hitting the KC exchanger in the loop.
exactly .. and to answer your question .. the cold temps ppl are reading in their reservior is AFTER the intercooler .. so still being cold, the fluid then goes from the reservior to the pump to the h/e then to the kc again
temps are still cool after the intercooler... therefore going into the h/e would only warm them back up some ... so ppl bypass it to keep the fluid cold as possible .. i bypassed my h/e for days that are 90-100 when i know i will be running the ac always.. now as for days that are 60-75 (or cooler) i will keep the valve open and use the full system, h/e included
that way if i switch off the a/c i still have cooling with the h/e without having to get out and turn the valve ... and if i AM running ac on those cooler days, well its not a big difference between ambient and the kc fluid temps to really make an impact on temps being brought up by using the h/e
Last edited:
The answer i have been looking for. I was thinking it goes from I/C->>H/E->>reservoir->>I/C. Definately getting one and getting rid of my 200shot* methanol kit.
I want to go with a big tank, but not sure whether to move the battery or the tank to the truck.
Is there good directions/how-to on how to bypass the HE with pictures some where and a parts list?
yes there are a couple pages with directions and i posted several pics on one thread
http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...-chiller-users-h-e-bypass-how-switchable.html
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/terminator-talk-229/861521-killer-chiller-install-help.html
Last edited:
For the coolant/water mix you say 70/30 but here in Wisconsin it freezes here and we need to set our coolant to minus -34 (usually a 50/50 mix) so would the 70/30 be safe not to freeze in the Wisconsin winter months?
Last edited:
Once you install the kit and bypass your heat exchanger, what about when you don't have the KC on? Like do you always run with this on, or only when racing? Do you have to always have the AC on? Not familiar with these kits..
I believe the KC is on whenever the system/ A/C compressor is running. So, obviously in the summer months, when you need the A/C on, you'll need the KC running as well to keep IAT's down. In the winter, you can run on defrost/mix and have warm air in the cab and have the KC running too.
Last edited:
if you bypass your heat exchanger you will need to have the a/c on full time .. if not then you will have coolant circulating but no heat exchanger or kc to cool it down, so it would be a useless cooling system...
if you plan to bypass the heat exchanger then you need to plan to have the a/c on, if you decide to not run the a/c and just want to cruise (say at night) then you will have to get down on a knee outside the car and turn a valve, it's as simple as that.. that will open the coolant to flow to the heat exchanger for normal cooling
Last edited:
Is this deal still possible? Am I too new?
Just got my first Termi a little over a month ago and only recently came across this place. Great site, by the way.
Just got my first Termi a little over a month ago and only recently came across this place. Great site, by the way.
Yes we still have a couple of kits left.
- Joe
Have it checked, or for about 5 bucks you can pick up a coolant checker at your local auto parts store.
We still have a couple of kits left. Just e-mail me your shipping info, and PH#
[email protected]
Thanks,
Joe
Yeah I have a tester already but I was just wondering if the 70/30 was safe to -34. I will have to check and mix up a batch.
the kit is good BUT does not come with detailed pics
it is not a easy install for those DIYers takes some time esp w/o pics
nevertheless still worth it IMHO.
it is not a easy install for those DIYers takes some time esp w/o pics
nevertheless still worth it IMHO.
The kit looks easy as heck to do from reading the instructions. I looked over my parts and it will be a breeze.
If it looks like a hard install you may want an expert to do it for you cause this is one of the easiest kits I have seen.
If it looks like a hard install you may want an expert to do it for you cause this is one of the easiest kits I have seen.
it isnt difficult but time consuming
Last edited:
- Status
Users who are viewing this thread
