Goals 750-800 rwhp
- Thread starter LivingEZ
- Start date
Well, I have already changed up what I am going to do, I decided just to do the 10% overdrive lower and not the 2.5 upper, I have also picked up a set of kooks headers now I am on the look out for a green catted X pipe and a set of 1050 injectors.
Stage 2 looks like a ported SC, Lower intake and cams.
Stage 2 looks like a ported SC, Lower intake and cams.
That sounds like progress. May I ask why you decided to go with a lower instead of an upper?
You sure can, though an upper would be a more cost effective way to make power, I believe making power by increasing the size of the lower is offers other advantages.
1. It is an improved balancer over stock once you start increase power
2. It decreases the chance of breaking the oil pump gears, crank sprocket and other timing components do to an increase in torsional vibration.
3. Less prone to belt slippage on the upper pulley, I am on the look out for an adjustable aux pulley just to make sure though
4. I like the idea that when at first glance other than the normal CIA upgrade it will look stock.
I am sure these points are arguable, I guess it comes down to the piece of mind of trying to build horsepower as safe as I possibly can. Kind of like headers cost effective no. Safer for the engine yes
Can you elaborate how an aftermarket balancer (10%)... vs the factory size and option, decrease breaking stuff as outlined in your 2nd talking point?
I'm genuinely curious where you got this information and/or data?
2. It decreases the chance of breaking the oil pump gears, crank sprocket and other timing components do to an increase in torsional vibration.
I also went with a lower over an upper when near stock.
I’d strongly recommend an upgraded tensioner as well as an upgraded ARP bolt or new stock (factory are single use) while you’re in there.
Good luck.
-J
I’d strongly recommend an upgraded tensioner as well as an upgraded ARP bolt or new stock (factory are single use) while you’re in there.
Good luck.
-J
An oversized SFI aftermarket balancer should in theory dampen harmonics better over OEM but I did it for the improved belt wrap and SFI for racing.
-J
Sure I can, lets start with the crankshaft is not rotating at a constant speed, it is in fact twisting and whipping (accelerating and decelerating constantly) a multitude of reasons cause this but the big ones are the compression stroke and the power stroke as these are contradicting forces (acceleration and the resistance to accelerating). As this happens it causes one part of the crankshaft to accelerate and another part to decelerate now your left with the opposite effect the part of the crankshaft resisting acceleration through the compression stroke ends and now must snap forward getting ready to accelerate from the power stroke. On another cylinder the power stroke has occurred and must provide enough energy to push the piston down with enough force to accelerate the crankshaft and then slow down and these opposing forces cause torsional vibration.
This torsional vibration is pretty violent and the components on the crankshaft are directly effected by this accelerating and decelerating of the crank like the crank gear and oil pump
The factory dampner does a great job at dampening the torsional vibration created from an engine creating 600-700 crank horses by placing a weight on the outside with and specific rubber material layered between the hub and the weight.
What about 850-900 crank horses there is a lot more twisting on the crank (torsional vibration) so how do we solve this so the crank gear oil pump, chains, ext don't break from the additional energy being created by the extra power. being the stock dampner is out of its range now we have to put on a dampner designed for more HP and TQ so that it can absorb the additional energy instead of the crank gear, oil pump, timing chains, camshaft gears, ext
Thank you great idea.
If you were planning to install an aftermarket balancer anyway, it makes perfect sense. I am looking to install a stock diameter ATI balancer on my 2008 due to age, and I don't need more boost on pump gas.
It's nice to see different approaches and the reasons. Options
Since OP is doing cams, in his second phase, wouldn't an approach be to do the following items when cams go in?
(I cut and pasted from the OPs post)
-->oil pump gears, crank sprocket and other timing components
OP is doing a dampener, to safeguard these components in their factory form it seems like?
I would just do it all at once and avoid getting hit, 2, 3, 4 different times with repeated labor and tuning charges.
I am also looking at whats sitting in my garage and what direction I want to go on my car now after seeing the OPs approach
Thank you for taking the time out and posting this.
I just, for a lack of better words, have always been scared shitless to mess with the crank on any Shelby 11-14.
Always went Upper and standard bolt ons with no belt slip issues etc.
Probably the, road most traveled by other enthusiasts, which gave me piece of mind my stock motor would be ok
Yes if I decide to open the front case to install cams those are all components that should be upgraded and replaced, if I do NSR cams I'll replace them with out taking off the front cover, however if I do a springs required cam set like JDM's I'll remove the cover and replace those components and degree the cams
And rightfully so... images of past threads about crank relearns, random misfires, broken cranks, and loosening balancers come to mind. Bottom line: it needs to be installed correctly. You know me and my confidence in my wrenching abilities, but I will NOT be installing the new aftermarket balancer on my car. Ideally, my engine builder will double key the crank and install the new balancer on my fresh engine build. I picked up a couple of parts recently to preserve my options:
ARP bolt and washer and Kinetic crank saver kit
Good deal.
I have a kinetic kit for my Coyote and would have used on my GT500 back when it was new.
Same idea on the engine builder doing the install as I had JDM double key my crank and install the ATI 15% balancer.
-J
I have a kinetic kit for my Coyote and would have used on my GT500 back when it was new.
Same idea on the engine builder doing the install as I had JDM double key my crank and install the ATI 15% balancer.
-J
Putting in a crank saver is a definite must if you're changing out the lower pulley. I would also not be afraid to install it just out of precaution. The most important part of that install is to lube up the dampner shaft with oil were the seal rides and to torque the crankshaft Bolt/Nut depending on what you have.
And press fit of the hub assembly to the crankshaft is vital to transfer harmonics to the damper assembly. Hub bores may require honing... and that is where I check out on self installation.
Subbing for progress updates
Well ladies and gentlemen here is an up date, I currently have everything with the exception of the kooks green catted H pipe. I will purchase that in the next few days. I bought a set of used kooks headers off ebay, one of the wide bands were cross threaded in and then the previous owners decided to mig weld it in (FAIL). I have a welder tig welding some stainless steel bungs in for me (the original ones look cheap to begin with anyway) I also have him welding the tubes to the flanges. I decided to clean them up with a wiz wheel with a maroon pad and I think it pulled some of the weld out that kooks put in (my fault)
I have also been considering titanium header wrap on top of the ceramic coating to keep the under hood temps down. The only reason for the ceramic coating is to protect the pipes, I do know header wrap is more effective then ceramic as far as reducing heat. on the other hand the car doesn't get driven the rain and is put up for winter. So is it worth ceramic coating the headers? 
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My garage is getting renovated and I need to be out at the end of May. I would like to get the headers and H pipe in before then. The other shop I have access to is a hour away and has a dyno I can use. Is there enough correction factered in the processor to run the car with headers and the H pipe with out a tune? I would like to install the rest of the items there as it won't take long and then remote tune on the dyno.
I have also been considering titanium header wrap on top of the ceramic coating to keep the under hood temps down. The only reason for the ceramic coating is to protect the pipes, I do know header wrap is more effective then ceramic as far as reducing heat. on the other hand the car doesn't get driven the rain and is put up for winter. So is it worth ceramic coating the headers?
.My garage is getting renovated and I need to be out at the end of May. I would like to get the headers and H pipe in before then. The other shop I have access to is a hour away and has a dyno I can use. Is there enough correction factered in the processor to run the car with headers and the H pipe with out a tune? I would like to install the rest of the items there as it won't take long and then remote tune on the dyno.
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For the benefit of full transparency in your project,
Do you regret not buying new headers or did the coin saved, if any, make it worth it?
Do you need a green X pipe for emissions testing?
I only ask, because at some point, the cats can degrade/fail rapidly depending on power levels. Metal pieces going where no car owner wants them to go
I wouldn't cut corners when it comes to tuning, or not tuning.
Do you regret not buying new headers or did the coin saved, if any, make it worth it?
Do you need a green X pipe for emissions testing?
I only ask, because at some point, the cats can degrade/fail rapidly depending on power levels. Metal pieces going where no car owner wants them to go
I wouldn't cut corners when it comes to tuning, or not tuning.
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