I know what the code is but I dont know what the fix is. Ive done a search on the web and that was less than helpful. Has anyone thrown this code and managed to fix the issue themselves. Im trying to avoid the dealership repair cost.
Got a CEL for code P0443
- Thread starter chrisheltra
- Start date
Is the car stock?
It's had a tune, CAI, and catless X for about 10,000 miles but just recently developed this issue.
Might just be a faulty purge valve. Just look over the purge valve, connector, wiring and purge valve lines.
Not sure if it's the same as my issue but I got the P0446 a couple months back. From what I see they are both relating to a hard fault on the EVAP purge valve so it's worth a shot. I was ready to swap the purge valve but then I did a continuity test on the pigtail cable that connects the cars harness to the canister and found a fault there. There was a tiny spot where the cable had corroded through. I cut it, slid some head shrink in and soldered the connection. Total repair cost was about 2 hours (taking my time) and a couple of bucks in shrink wrap since I was out. Haven't had it return since then.
I'm doing this from memory so let me know if you run into problems. First you need to remove the EVAP canister which is the black box under the trunk, there are 4 bolts. The canister has 3 bolts on the bottom that hold the actual canister to the holder part DON'T TOUCH THESE. The actual 4 bolts are towards the outside of the unit. I circled them in red on the first picture. From here the unit might drop enough to pull the cable but I pulled the whole unit thinking it was the valve so you can try the cable but I pulled the 3 hoses (explanation in the pic). Since I pulled the whole unit I don't know how difficult or if it's even possible to remove the cable from the valve side without taking the canister out. The top hose you just pull/wiggle. The bottom two you have you pinch the top while pulling the bottom with a flat head. Once you slide the clip out it stays out so once it's out you can ignore it. After this use a hand to hold the canister and the other to pull the hose out of place. Both of these were kind of a pain but as long as both clips are out they will wiggle out of the socket. After that you need to wiggle the canister around the hoses as they still hold it in place and it will drop. At this point I also did a continuity test on the valve touch multimeter probes to both prongs. I don't know exactly what value I got but it was non-zero. Many bad solenoids are open circuits so if you get a zero the valve might be bad. Mine was good. The cable doesn't have shielding all the way so look for corrosion in the part of the shielding mine was barely noticeable. If you have a multimeter you can to continuity testing to find out which cable is bad. Just hold one probe to one end of the cable and hold the other probe to the other end of the same cable. If you find a fault just cut the cable there, slide some heat shrink in and solder. Delete the code and see what you get.
Also if you already have the tuner you can just have it ignore the code and rip out the whole system. You might need a plug but someone on a forum did it on their 13 without problems although he did catch a ton of flack for doing it from all the environmental junkies. Also not sure how it would affect emissions. It might give an error or just say not supported. I'd try to fix it first but worst case scenario you can just remove it.
Sidenote: I did end up removing the inner canister once I had the whole part out and took the opportunity to clean the outside plastic as it had a bunch of road grime and other garbage in it.
http://imgur.com/a/Y25Al Uploaded the pics to IMGUR just in case those fail for whatever reason.
I'm doing this from memory so let me know if you run into problems. First you need to remove the EVAP canister which is the black box under the trunk, there are 4 bolts. The canister has 3 bolts on the bottom that hold the actual canister to the holder part DON'T TOUCH THESE. The actual 4 bolts are towards the outside of the unit. I circled them in red on the first picture. From here the unit might drop enough to pull the cable but I pulled the whole unit thinking it was the valve so you can try the cable but I pulled the 3 hoses (explanation in the pic). Since I pulled the whole unit I don't know how difficult or if it's even possible to remove the cable from the valve side without taking the canister out. The top hose you just pull/wiggle. The bottom two you have you pinch the top while pulling the bottom with a flat head. Once you slide the clip out it stays out so once it's out you can ignore it. After this use a hand to hold the canister and the other to pull the hose out of place. Both of these were kind of a pain but as long as both clips are out they will wiggle out of the socket. After that you need to wiggle the canister around the hoses as they still hold it in place and it will drop. At this point I also did a continuity test on the valve touch multimeter probes to both prongs. I don't know exactly what value I got but it was non-zero. Many bad solenoids are open circuits so if you get a zero the valve might be bad. Mine was good. The cable doesn't have shielding all the way so look for corrosion in the part of the shielding mine was barely noticeable. If you have a multimeter you can to continuity testing to find out which cable is bad. Just hold one probe to one end of the cable and hold the other probe to the other end of the same cable. If you find a fault just cut the cable there, slide some heat shrink in and solder. Delete the code and see what you get.
Also if you already have the tuner you can just have it ignore the code and rip out the whole system. You might need a plug but someone on a forum did it on their 13 without problems although he did catch a ton of flack for doing it from all the environmental junkies. Also not sure how it would affect emissions. It might give an error or just say not supported. I'd try to fix it first but worst case scenario you can just remove it.
Sidenote: I did end up removing the inner canister once I had the whole part out and took the opportunity to clean the outside plastic as it had a bunch of road grime and other garbage in it.
http://imgur.com/a/Y25Al Uploaded the pics to IMGUR just in case those fail for whatever reason.
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