Gt500 6r80 swap ????

0mineralgrey3

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TVS VERT

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The oil light wasn't an issue for me as it met with an accident lol .... You need a new blank abs module some get away with used some don't ......I used OE starter and sounds the same as when it had the manual
 

0mineralgrey3

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I'm currently limited to 6k rpms shift points and 16 degrees of timing. So much more left In it. It's gonna go a low 9 before it's all done.
 

TVS VERT

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What blower setup are you running .... If it's a KB check bypass ASAP as I was down a bunch of boost at my track outing and didn't discover the issue until the following day .... My 23psi was only making 17-18 psi now with the bypass fixed my 20 psi pulley makes 23psi lol
 

serickson1

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If you don't mind a manual shift auto its a super simple and inexpensive swap….I bought a used 4L80E and converter with a mod motor bell….had them both gone thru and fully built….bolted everything up and had a local shop make a 4" driveshaft…only wiring required is for the lock up converter and transbrake….the TCI Outlaw shifter fits in the factory shifter boot opening with a little trimming of the outlaw shifter cover….I didn't even have to make any tune revisions for the auto swap…car runs 8's @ almost 160…should have done the swap years ago…..you do have to do some cutting of your trans tunnel for the 4L80E… not sure how the other trannys fit in our tunnels but anything will work without a controller if you can find the proper bell housing and don't mind a manually shifted auto…..you guys that are waiting for a certain controller could do the swap now and wire in the controller later if you wanted.
 

0mineralgrey3

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there really isn't a controller necessary. You use a 5.0 computer. They reflash it for you. YOu will lose your boost readout in the dash though.
 

genesmob

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I used an HGM compushift 2 with the 4l80e. You can do anything with the compushift 2. After programming, it auto shifts perfect.
 

0mineralgrey3

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Bringing this back from the dead.

I'm having a recurring issue. I noticed the starter sounded pretty bad from day 1 of the swap. After dyno time and a few test drives the car wouldn't start. The starter would engage and spin the motor over a few times then it would make a horrible grinding noise then turn a few times repeat repeat repeat. I tried the starter from a 5.0 in the car and it started...sounded the same way and after about 20 starts same thing. It destroyed the flexplate and starter. I ordered a new sfi flexplate from circle D and one from Performance automatic. I put them on a flat surface and compared them to my stock 6 speed flywheel. The Performance automatic was an exact mach depth and thickness vs the circle D was slightly less in depth. I installed the PA flexplate and held the starter up to it's mounting point....seemed to be an exact match. Started the car up...and it was quieter than any previous configurations and I though all was good. Today i take the car out for a ride and bam......same mother EFFING problem again. I'm completely lost with this crap. I literally just left the car in the parking lot where it wouldn't start. Anyone have any ideas?
 

biminiLX

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Been watching this from a distance as we will be running a 6R in a few of our cars.
I had a similar issue in my 427W turbo car due to thrust bearing. I doubt it's that but I know you race it hard.
I'd expect if you take time and measure everything out and talk to a few of the companies involved, it should be an easy fix. At least I hope so for you.
What parts did TVS vert use?
-J
 

biminiLX

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there really isn't a controller necessary. You use a 5.0 computer. They reflash it for you. YOu will lose your boost readout in the dash though.

A manually shifted trans is a MUCH better option (or the compushift like for the GM trans).
I've seen the headache of getting the 6R to shift repeatable at the strip on coyote/6R cars with SCT tuning.
It's much more complex in factory/SCT than programming the shift points for each gear.
I love my MVB auto.
-J
 

TVS VERT

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I used stock Shelby starter and bolts and stock flex plate with a circle d converter and it sounds and stars the same as it always did ....teeth on flex plate and starter can't be meshing properly
 

0mineralgrey3

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i have no idea why they woudln't be meshing. I checked and everything seems fine. Almost like something is warping the flexplate.
 

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