Ok, I'm thinking about pulling the trigger...
Any group buys or discounts going on? :burnout:
Any group buys or discounts going on? :burnout:
Halucinating about a Roush TVS for my daily driver
- Thread starter TTA89
- Start date
Maybe a dumb question but are there any problems with a Roush when driving long distances, like a 500+ mile road trip doing 75-80mph in 100 degree temps? I'm trying to decide between getting a 12 or 13 Shelby (depending on prices and money situations) and supercharging my 5.0. It's hard for me to spend that much on a Shelby when I can run as fast or faster with only the Roush SC, although I've always wanted a Shelby. Hmmm, decisions decisions.
i drove my 03 cobra from SC to TX then back to SC then to MD. Im sure itll be fine.
Any times on the Edelbrock kit. I still find it hard to believe you can buy a base model Mustang GT bolt on a factory quality supercharger in the Roush, uses a lot of Ford parts if I'm not mistaken and run 10s, that's crazy.
No problem whatsoever driving those distances. That's why there are boost bypass valves.
FRPP gets their parts for the ford whipped from roush. Roush designed, prototypes and build them. One reason the whipple is more expensive. But yes, nearly everything in the roush kit has ford part numbers and stickers on them
I'm still trying to figure the "700 hp" claim. That's about 600 RWHP, and that's much more than most have talked about getting. So, can we assume the 700 is generated by the injectors, CAI, and custom 100 octane tune?
I drove mine from here to Chicago and back with my wife and 2 kids on the car in the middle of summer, about 1500 miles total. Never gave it a second thought. The Roush kit is as OEM as you can get (FRPP as well). Only issue on that trip was resisting the urge to hit a dragstrip, didnt want to push it with the family along
Cant really compare it to a GT500 though, the GT500 has 550hp and warranty and is pretty well loaded up.
Hey
My car is making the pwr claims u talk about. Justin tuned my car and I'm still running the Roush closed air box which I like. I'm not running full length headers or anything fancy. I'm actually running the supplied injectors with and awesome tune. The TVS is the best all around setup out there......
My car is making the pwr claims u talk about. Justin tuned my car and I'm still running the Roush closed air box which I like. I'm not running full length headers or anything fancy. I'm actually running the supplied injectors with and awesome tune. The TVS is the best all around setup out there......
I've been researching this as I plan on ordering a 2013 base GT with Track Pack soon and I want to do one round of mods and be done with it while also retaining good driveability and such.
It seems the Roush kit by itself (90mm pulley, 7.5 psi), with the Roush delivered tune, on an otherwise bone stock car, is good for around 460 rwhp.
Just adding a VMP email tune, with no other changes, takes that to around 510 rwhp, which is pretty freaking amazing.
The next step would be an 82mm pulley to increase boost by about 2 psi over the stock 90mm pulley (to 9.5 psi). The pulley plus a dyno tune from someone like JDM takes you to around 530-540 rwhp. This is probably the highest level that you could say is damn near 100% safe and is probably where I would stop.
VMP makes a 79mm pulley which will give you an extra 0.5 psi boost (to 10 psi) and maybe 10 hp. This is as far as they recommend anyone goes with the 47 lb injectors supplied with the Roush kit and the stock fuel pump. If you go with this pulley they recommend either limiting the revs to 7100 or using octane booster or race gas.
After this point you need bigger fuel injectors and a BAP-type device to increase fuel pump output.
75mm pulley = +0.5 psi (10.5)
72mm pulley = +1 psi (11.5)
69mm pulley = +0.5 psi (12)
Justin from VMP notes that several full weight cars have gone low 10's with the stock airbox and exhaust and the 72mm pulley and two cars have gone high 9's with the 69mm pulley again stock airbox and exhaust.
From here, the recommendation is to go with an open element CAI, which will by itself increase boost by 3-4 psi (15-16) by eliminating the inlet restriction. Long tube headers and either an OR or catted midpipe would be next. The VMP car has gone 9.79 @ 140 with just those mods. Some people also do a bigger throttle body at this point, but I've seen tests in 5.0 magazine and MM&FF and they have had mixed results - maybe 5-10 peak hp gains with some loss of low end torque, it appears the stock throttle body is fine at these power levels (600-625 rwhp with the 69mm pulley, CAI, and headers/exhaust). I wouldn't push the stock short block much past that though.
It seems the Roush kit by itself (90mm pulley, 7.5 psi), with the Roush delivered tune, on an otherwise bone stock car, is good for around 460 rwhp.
Just adding a VMP email tune, with no other changes, takes that to around 510 rwhp, which is pretty freaking amazing.
The next step would be an 82mm pulley to increase boost by about 2 psi over the stock 90mm pulley (to 9.5 psi). The pulley plus a dyno tune from someone like JDM takes you to around 530-540 rwhp. This is probably the highest level that you could say is damn near 100% safe and is probably where I would stop.
VMP makes a 79mm pulley which will give you an extra 0.5 psi boost (to 10 psi) and maybe 10 hp. This is as far as they recommend anyone goes with the 47 lb injectors supplied with the Roush kit and the stock fuel pump. If you go with this pulley they recommend either limiting the revs to 7100 or using octane booster or race gas.
After this point you need bigger fuel injectors and a BAP-type device to increase fuel pump output.
75mm pulley = +0.5 psi (10.5)
72mm pulley = +1 psi (11.5)
69mm pulley = +0.5 psi (12)
Justin from VMP notes that several full weight cars have gone low 10's with the stock airbox and exhaust and the 72mm pulley and two cars have gone high 9's with the 69mm pulley again stock airbox and exhaust.
From here, the recommendation is to go with an open element CAI, which will by itself increase boost by 3-4 psi (15-16) by eliminating the inlet restriction. Long tube headers and either an OR or catted midpipe would be next. The VMP car has gone 9.79 @ 140 with just those mods. Some people also do a bigger throttle body at this point, but I've seen tests in 5.0 magazine and MM&FF and they have had mixed results - maybe 5-10 peak hp gains with some loss of low end torque, it appears the stock throttle body is fine at these power levels (600-625 rwhp with the 69mm pulley, CAI, and headers/exhaust). I wouldn't push the stock short block much past that though.
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Great info thank you!
If you drove something other than a 97hp Miata you wouldn't have to ask that question.
oke:;-)
oke:;-)If you're not planning on using the car for anything besides driving it on the street, what is the point of this mod for you Mike?
If you drove something other than a 97hp Miata you wouldn't have to ask that question.
96hp
RTD - Awesome write-up...thanks for all that detail.
And just one follow-up question, are there a bunch of stock long block cars running around with some decent miles on them at the 625rwhp level that are considered to be safe and reliable? I recognize this is more of a question about the Coyote durability than it is about the VMP or Evo kits.
In any event this is a hell of a package / tune. :beer:
And just one follow-up question, are there a bunch of stock long block cars running around with some decent miles on them at the 625rwhp level that are considered to be safe and reliable? I recognize this is more of a question about the Coyote durability than it is about the VMP or Evo kits.
In any event this is a hell of a package / tune. :beer:
Not enough miles to know for most, plus when someone blows their car up they tend not to talk about it. Add 200hp and you cant expect 100K durability if you beat it up. I pull my plugs and look every few thousand miles, plus do a quick compression test. I also look at how blowby it has with the PCV disconnected, thats where you start seeing some piston/ring issues. So far so good on mine..
But you know that some people can tear anything up, even stock, but it appears the stock engines are holding up fairly well under boost. The knock sensors on these are very aggressive and with the closed loop wideband feedback at WOT so the engine control helps keep them alive as well - as long as you dont get greedy and run out of fuel pumps or injector of course.
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