Has any one went from a Gt 500 To a Boss

[ROBSNAKE]

If so what do u think. I have an 07 now. Time for a change either new 500 or Boss
Fire away and thanks

 

[GNSNAKE]

Boss

I have both give me a call
I dont type worth a shmitt



rob
770 413 6756

 

[Mikes5.0]

Ive never driven a 07 gt500 but have driven a 2010 gt500 and a new boss. The gt500's are amazing street cars.

 

[cloud9]

I have an 07 GT500 (heavily modded) and a Boss. After two track days I was matching my lap times in my Griggs GT500 with only SS brake lines, pads, rotors and brake cooling kit added to the Boss. I'm giving up 200 rwhp in the Boss to the GT500 as well. It really depends on what you want the car for. I was lucky to be able to keep both because it would be a tough choice. On the street I still prefer my GT500.....explosive hp, Shaker 1000, looks, etc. On the road course it's hands down the Boss.

 

[IA Shelby]

I think your best bet is to find someone who has a Boss and a 11/12 GT500. Comparing the boss on the track to an 07 isn't really accurate. The new aluminum block and svt pkg makes the GT500 much more capable on the track.

Clealry both cars have their advantages. If I was going to get a boss over the gt500 IT WOULD BE the Laguna Seca model despite its hot wheels color scheme.

If money were no object I would just get a Shelby GT 350 from Shelby American and have the best of both in one package.

 

[908ssp]

........If money were no object I would just get a Shelby GT 350 from Shelby American and have the best of both in one package.

If only....:shrug:

 

[BOOSTD5.4]

Now having 32 miles on the LS...... This is by far the BEST car I have ever driven, EVER!

It is so confident in the turns as compared to my 07 GT 500.....

I can only describe it as a complete car! It is an extension of your every move!

Mike, still smiling!

 

[GetBlown2k3]

I've been thinking about both, either GT500 or Boss, and due to the climate I live in, I'm going to have to stick with N/A power. EVERY track event I've gone to with a GT500, it's gone into limp mode because of IATs.

 

[cloud9]

I've been thinking about both, either GT500 or Boss, and due to the climate I live in, I'm going to have to stick with N/A power. EVERY track event I've gone to with a GT500, it's gone into limp mode because of IATs.

Yea that's why I don't buy that insideline test where they ran the GT500, Boss, GT and V6 for ONE lap. The Boss wins that test if they just run 5 laps let alone a normal 10+ in a typical track session because the GT500 would heat soak after about 3 laps.

 

[UnleashedBeast]

I've been thinking about both, either GT500 or Boss, and due to the climate I live in, I'm going to have to stick with N/A power. EVERY track event I've gone to with a GT500, it's gone into limp mode because of IATs.

Then you have never seen a GT500 with a Revan Racing radiator and heat exchanger on the track. Heat soak issues are eliminated.

With a stock radiator and HE, your argument is valid.

 

[cloud9]

Then you have never seen a GT500 with a Revan Racing radiator and heat exchanger on the track. Heat soak issues are eliminated.

With a stock radiator and HE, your argument is valid.

Well I have them. Granted I don't go into limp mode, but it certainly starts to pull timing. That said, I had to "pulley up" on track days. I have an interchangeable hub from Stiegemeier and I pull the 2.6 and put on the stock 2.9 for track days. Hp/tq drop from 640/625 to 575/545 which is still fine for the road course. You can't possibly be road racing your setup for 25 minute sessions in 90+ degree FL weather can you? With a ported stock blower, 2.6 pulley and 15% OD lower you'd go into limp mode after a few laps even with the HE and radiator. I know I do if I run the 2.6 with a stock sized lower.

 

[UnleashedBeast]

Well I have them. Granted I don't go into limp mode, but it certainly starts to pull timing. That said, I had to "pulley up" on track days. I have an interchangeable hub from Stiegemeier and I pull the 2.6 and put on the stock 2.9 for track days. Hp/tq drop from 640/625 to 575/545 which is still fine for the road course. You can't possibly be road racing your setup for 25 minute sessions in 90+ degree FL weather can you? With a ported stock blower, 2.6 pulley and 15% OD lower you'd go into limp mode after a few laps even with the HE and radiator. I know I do if I run the 2.6 with a stock sized lower.

My car isn't setup for road racing, mine is for drag racing.

Van's car is for road racing, and he also turns the power down to remain in class. He has no problem with limp mode and never pulls timing (using 98-103 octane). Technique plays a large roll in controlling heat buildup too. The KB 3.6 liquid cooled setup also helps.

Most Shelbys will begin to pull timing around 100*F IAT2 (stock tune spark retard point), but not until 140*F IAT2 temps with more aggressive tunes (like my 93 octane tune). My car may see a 2* retard at 100*F ambient weather hot lapping (over 140 IAT2), but nothing like a stock radiator and stock HE setup.

I do have a race tune for 100 octane that will not pull timing at all since the octane levels are present to prevent detonation.

I do agree with the post about supercharged cars are a pain in the ass due to heat soak and limp modes. N/A cars require much less efforts and expense to make them effective.

 

[cloud9]

My car isn't setup for road racing, mine is for drag racing.

Van's car is for road racing, and he also turns the power down to remain in class. He has no problem with limp mode and never pulls timing (using 98-103 octane). Technique plays a large roll in controlling heat buildup too. The KB 3.6 liquid cooled setup also helps.

Most Shelbys will begin to pull timing around 100*F IAT2 (stock tune spark retard point), but not until 140*F IAT2 temps with more aggressive tunes (like my 93 octane tune). My car may see a 2* retard at 100*F weather hot lapping, but nothing like a stock radiator and stock HE setup.

I do have a race tune for 100 octane that will not pull timing at all since the octane levels are present to prevent detonation.

I do agree with the post about supercharged cars are a pain in the ass due to heat soak and limp modes. N/A cars require much less efforts and expense to make them effective.

Yep the 3.6 can make more power with lower rpms, plus the liquid cooling would help.