Ford states 6.5 quarts. If you fill it with 7 you've got half a quart that you can safely lose through normal consumption. When I put my car on teh race track I put an extra quart of oil in it.
Has your 32v blown up?
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Everything I've ever seen says 6 quarts?
warpd said:
+1...NEVER seen 6.5 before...
you guys who are spinning rod bearings- are you meticulous about oil level and oil changes? are you using the right oil? Synthetic or conventional? I'm trying to collect as much info as possible before taking the plunge on a new(new to me) Cobra.
I was driving down the interstate at about 85-90. Had the radio blastin! Pulled off the exit and turned the radio down stilling at the light. When the light turned green and I started to let off the clutch I heard a knocking noise. After getting it apart I found I had a spun bearing.
still on original motor but only have a little over 17,000 miles on it
run 6.5 or more.
A few Q's about maintenance...I'm always checking my oil level and think the overfill is a good idea, but at what point above 6 quarts are you going to see oil burning out the tailpipe? Isn't too much oil pressure due to overfilling an issue to be concerned about? I'd think 7 quarts on a regular basis would be a problem, no?
I typically "dry start" my motor (gas pedal on the floor) for a few seconds to pump up oil pressure before actually starting it. Seems to eliminate the initial 1/2 second of valve clatter I get on start up when the engine's cold. Figured this would help in the long run. Is this not a good thing to do?
I typically "dry start" my motor (gas pedal on the floor) for a few seconds to pump up oil pressure before actually starting it. Seems to eliminate the initial 1/2 second of valve clatter I get on start up when the engine's cold. Figured this would help in the long run. Is this not a good thing to do?
CobraRed01 said:
I don't know "how much oil is too much" but I run mine with at least 6.5. I really feel low oil level got to my original motor. I made sure Ford changed the oil everytime so they couldn't blame me for not putting enough in. I mentioned on multiple occasions to them that the oil level looked low after they changed it but they said it was fine.
What you do with your pedal before the car starts does not do anything. The oil pump runs off the sepentine belt so it doesn't start until the motor starts turning.
by holding the pedal to the floor and turning the key the car wont start. It will however turn over, turning the belt, and priming the oil pump before it actually fires up.djtech said:
Seven with a filter won't hurt anything. Like CobraGuy99 said, 7 qts of GC 0-30 with a filter, replace filter at 5k to 6k miles and by 10k to 12k time for another 7 qts of the green stuff! Overfilling is not an issue with these motors...but I wouldn't dump 9 or 10 in! Check it often - they do eat oil. And if you're a fanatic about it, do a search for Oil Separator and then you can see exactly how much is being sucked back into the intake.
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VenomousSVT said:
Gotcha (didn't think about the turn key part)... interesting idea. I'm not sure if this will help/hurt.
I have never done it, however I probably should with forged internals and cold starts being sooo noisydjtech said:
The only time I've ever primed an oil pump is after extended period without starting a motor, or right after a finished build.
As logn as you let the engine come up to operating temperature after it hasn't run in a couple days you should be fine.
Piston slap on a forged motor contrary to popular belief is normal. Just give the engine a chance to bring itself up to temp and you're good to go.
The 455 in my bird slaps like crazy when it's cold. Give it a minute or two and it dissapears.
As logn as you let the engine come up to operating temperature after it hasn't run in a couple days you should be fine.
Piston slap on a forged motor contrary to popular belief is normal. Just give the engine a chance to bring itself up to temp and you're good to go.
The 455 in my bird slaps like crazy when it's cold. Give it a minute or two and it dissapears.
Thanks for the response and tips. Just did a search on "oil seperator" per your rec. I will look into it further. Seems quite a lively debate around the concept. If oil drainage back to the sump is a major issue, would something like the "Accusump" oil accumulator help, or is that just for a major oil pressure loss? Might be worth the investment for a car that sees regular track use.
If you all are in a speculative mood...do you think there a difference between Teksid blocks and WAP blocks when it comes to spun bearings and oil/lube problems?
When one purchases a rebuilt forged block from somebody like VT Engines (I assume there all WAP blocks by now) have they addressed these lower bearing lube problems on the Mod motor...or is this strictly a head drainage issue?
If you all are in a speculative mood...do you think there a difference between Teksid blocks and WAP blocks when it comes to spun bearings and oil/lube problems?
When one purchases a rebuilt forged block from somebody like VT Engines (I assume there all WAP blocks by now) have they addressed these lower bearing lube problems on the Mod motor...or is this strictly a head drainage issue?
not correct.djtech said:
the oil pump is driven on the flats of the crank just before the first main bearing.
you will see about 10 psi of pressure doing it that way, but with a good synthetic oil, I don't see a benefit.
CobraRed01 said:
the accusump is a good idea, but really only deals with pressure loss. However, if your oil level is low, and you take a high g turn, the accusump can help to stabilize pressure.
the wap block moved the return holes a bit further from the crank, but all things considered it should not matter.
the oiling system isn't really the problem. The stock aluminum backed bearings really don't like a lack of oil. They get hot and spin pretty easily. a quality aftermarket bearing from Federal Mogul helps that problem, but of course you will need to keep the level correct.
Puching out the return holes in the heads is a good idea, as long as you don't get crazy (the exhaust ports are right there.)
cobra2798 said:
Lol. 31k miles on mine, 1st motor. I had my tranny rebuilt, however. :beer:
My 97 is N/A and is on original motor. It has about 65k miles. It looks like most of the blown motors are on the 99 and 01. I do not see very many postings for the 96-98.
I am about ready to put a K/B on it but plan to keep the boost at 8 psi. Not any higher. I think that changing pulleys and getting the boost above 10 on stock components could be the reason for most of the problems.
And I agree with the remarks about making sure the oil is not even a little low.
I am about ready to put a K/B on it but plan to keep the boost at 8 psi. Not any higher. I think that changing pulleys and getting the boost above 10 on stock components could be the reason for most of the problems.
And I agree with the remarks about making sure the oil is not even a little low.
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