Headers worth it ??? Bolt on

[boduke0220]

Damn the exact situation I'm in

Cobra jet intake setup

Or

Longtubes and aluminum driveshaft.

Leaning towards the longtubes so my engine bay would look stock and I won't have to worry about shifting issues as much

 

[momogt]

i thought about going with shorty headers so i could keep my jba h-pipe with hi-flow cats welded in. im like more power over a curve not just peak. but i can sell my mid pipe and save some cash

 

[momogt]

Damn the exact situation I'm in

Cobra jet intake setup

Or

Longtubes and aluminum driveshaft.

Leaning towards the longtubes so my engine bay would look stock and I won't have to worry about shifting issues as much

im going longtubes maybe a tb and cai. but if longtubes give a 20-30rwhp peak. just think of the overall power curve gains thats got me sold also what type of tuning would i need a dyno tune or email tune i deal with vmp and c&l performance

 

[boduke0220]

im going longtubes maybe a tb and cai. but if longtubes give a 20-30rwhp peak. just think of the overall power curve gains thats got me sold also what type of tuning would i need a dyno tune or email tune i deal with vmp and c&l performance

Aed is the only guy that will touch my cars computer lol

 

[momogt]

my vmp and c&l tunes are great love the shifting on both

 

[Ultrakla$$ic]

im going longtubes maybe a tb and cai. but if longtubes give a 20-30rwhp peak. just think of the overall power curve gains thats got me sold also what type of tuning would i need a dyno tune or email tune i deal with vmp and c&l performance

TB =

......TOTAL waste of revenue.

 

[boduke0220]

TB =

......TOTAL waste of revenue.

I'm not arguing but I have been read a lot of na threads here lately and someone mentioned the main difference (slight plenum volume is a small diff. Imo) between the boss and cj is the Tb opening. What if you could port the boss and port match the Tb opening to a bigger tb. Or get it close. Just thinking out loud as this is far from on topic

 

[kcsvt94l]

Sorry someone pissed in your post toasties this morning... maybe you should go back to bed and wake up on the other side...
2012 BOSS 302 INTAKE CAM SET M-6550-M50BINT
2012 BOSS 302 EXHAUST CAM SET M-6550-M50BEXH

And I think the as you called JW Wacky Pack setup is a great setup for a NA coyote engine...
so lets go over this on more time...
I say stick with the stock intake, go large 1 7/8 headers , 85mm tb, go 100+mm CAI, go CJ Boss cams w/boss heads if N/A is the thing you want to do.

To add if you want to take a stock coyote block way beyond its red line of 7k and twist it to 7500 or 8k thats total up to you... but to stay stock with the factory short block... I would say stay with the stock intake as well... not unless you plan on when you do race for the next shift to start well above 5500 and extend way beyond 7000... then you get into stock coyote block questions...


Adding the CJ intake and SCJ TB is a whole other animal when done to a boss with the factory boss heads... I know I have one sitting in my garage.

No, it just gets old when people run up to the forum and have explosive diarrhea of the mouth when you joined the site all of two months ago. All the sudden you want to try to push some "Package" that most enthusiasts who've been around realize you're ill informed. However, the OP is looking for accurate information on what he should do for mods. We have new owners coming to this forum everyday and your information is inaccurate and bad. It just makes it harder for people to search for things because they have to sift through BS like this.

So you link part numbers for Boss cams (Which you arrogantly said you'd charge people) Then go on to reference CJ Boss cams. they're two different sets of cams. I guess you aren't understanding that.

Please stop posting in accurate information. Your mod list is a piss poor setup if you're wanting to maximize N/A. It's no secret that you can wind the Coyote to 7800+ w/o issue. Several guys with 20k+ Miles that have done that since day one. I personally have 11k on my car and it got a Boss 302 intake and a tune with less than 100 miles on it. My car isn't a daily and when it gets driven it's ran hard. There are no questions about a stock coyote block on a N/A Car. The overall consensus is the Pistons & Rods are on borrowed time at the 650rwhp or higher power levels, a N/A Stock block car is never going to make that kind of power.

The fact that you're advocating Boss 302 cams but not the Boss 302 intake when, both of them only net gains at 5000 RPM and higher, is hilarious. To Advocate one instead of the other just shows and confirms your lack of knowledge of the platform.

Advocating specifically a 100MM CAI yet a 85MM TB, perhaps I should give you the benefit of the doubt here as most CAI's for are cars happen to be 100+MM However, speaking in terms of general car knowledge, how does any thing over an 85MM CAI Benefit you when you're TB is only 85MM?? You do realize that the TB sits between the intake manifold and the air intake correct? To use an analogy here, What good is a 44 OZ beverage if you're forced to drink it through a coffee stir ? It's completely overkill would you not agree ?


As for the specifics on the throttle body, along the same lines as the cams for what you're going to spend. You're going to see a MUCH more substantial gain by going to a SCJ Monoblade.

That's great that you have a CJ Manifold Boss in your garage, what's really impressive is that it has factory boss heads! That's a pretty hardcore mod!
No, seriously who cares? In terms of N/A a Coyote can do everything a Roadrunner can as far as Power handling, Longevity, & Consistency. Where the boss motor is awesome is the fact that it has forged rods and pistons. Again, that really doesn't make any difference unless you're putting down 650+ which is going to take a power adder(Turbo, S/C, Nitrous) & even then a factory boss motor has blown up at the 870 mark, while it's impressive! It's not like you're running around in an aluminator, MMR, L&M built short block.

As to the power your Boss makes with those awesome Boss cams and Boss heads! I beckon you to run a lowly coyote with a CJ Mani SCJ Monoblade Stage 3 comp cam setup, because he's going to freight train you.

Good Day

 

[kcsvt94l]

I'm not arguing but I have been read a lot of na threads here lately and someone mentioned the main difference (slight plenum volume is a small diff. Imo) between the boss and cj is the Tb opening. What if you could port the boss and port match the Tb opening to a bigger tb. Or get it close. Just thinking out loud as this is far from on topic

You would destroy a boss IM to try to mold the circular TB opening to mate the Oval SCJ TB. You'd be better off to do it right and just buy the CJ manifold which is better in every way.

 

[boduke0220]

You would destroy a boss IM to try to mold the circular TB opening to mate the Oval SCJ TB. You'd be better off to do it right and just buy the CJ manifold which is better in every way.

Not saying that lol I'm saying port match it to a bigger circular tb. Or open it up as much as possible.

 

[JohnRichard]

OK Throttle Body… Boss intake
Boss Factory size 80mm
5.0 engine @ 7300rpms
The Throttle Body size in mm equals the square root of ((11978.8 x engine size in liters x RPM) divided by 67547)) = 80.0428 millimeters (3.1513 inches) is the best size for a street going car. It will provide the best power throughout the rpm range.

80.0428 * 1.15 = 92.04922 millimeters (3.623995 inches) is better for racing. 92.04922 is 15% bigger than the street going version and will provide more horsepower at higher rpm ranges. The drawback is it may cause poor idle and/or make it necessary to increase the idle rpm to make the engine idle smoothly. That, along with less power at lower rpms, is the reason most people do not drive cars with racing engines on the street.

Does that explain the TB size? Why not go with a 90mm TB on a NA Coyote? the whole paragraph above is your answer…


OK Throttle Body… GT intake
GT Factory size 80mm
5.0 engine @ 6500 RPMs
The Throttle Body size in mm equals the square root of ((11978.8 x 5 x 6500) divided by 67547))= 75.5296
75.5296 millimeters (2.9736 inches) is the best size for a street going car. It will provide the best power throughout the rpm range.
75.5296 * 1.15 = 86.85904 millimeters (3.41964 inches) is better for racing. 86.85904 is 15% bigger than the street going version and will provide more horsepower at higher rpm ranges. The drawback is it may cause poor idle and/or make it necessary to increase the idle rpm to make the engine idle smoothly. That, along with less power at lower rpms, is the reason most people do not drive cars with racing engines on the street.




I know this has nothing to do with headers being worth it or not...
Read This then you decide if headers are worth it or not...

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/header_basics/

 

[Serpent]

OP, I saw your mod list. For the price of LTH I would first get an aluminum DS. Its basically half the price (of a top brand LTH).
20lbs less rotating mass with an improved engine response and less stress to move the rear wheels too. Whats not to like?!

 

[stang8psi]

OK Throttle Body… Boss intake
Boss Factory size 80mm
5.0 engine @ 7300rpms
The Throttle Body size in mm equals the square root of ((11978.8 x engine size in liters x RPM) divided by 67547)) = 80.0428 millimeters (3.1513 inches) is the best size for a street going car. It will provide the best power throughout the rpm range.

80.0428 * 1.15 = 92.04922 millimeters (3.623995 inches) is better for racing. 92.04922 is 15% bigger than the street going version and will provide more horsepower at higher rpm ranges. The drawback is it may cause poor idle and/or make it necessary to increase the idle rpm to make the engine idle smoothly. That, along with less power at lower rpms, is the reason most people do not drive cars with racing engines on the street.

Does that explain the TB size? Why not go with a 90mm TB on a NA Coyote? the whole paragraph above is your answer…


OK Throttle Body… GT intake
GT Factory size 80mm
5.0 engine @ 6500 RPMs
The Throttle Body size in mm equals the square root of ((11978.8 x 5 x 6500) divided by 67547))= 75.5296
75.5296 millimeters (2.9736 inches) is the best size for a street going car. It will provide the best power throughout the rpm range.
75.5296 * 1.15 = 86.85904 millimeters (3.41964 inches) is better for racing. 86.85904 is 15% bigger than the street going version and will provide more horsepower at higher rpm ranges. The drawback is it may cause poor idle and/or make it necessary to increase the idle rpm to make the engine idle smoothly. That, along with less power at lower rpms, is the reason most people do not drive cars with racing engines on the street.




I know this has nothing to do with headers being worth it or not...
Read This then you decide if headers are worth it or not...

Header Basics - How Headers Contribute to Horsepower - Car Craft Magazine

wtf???

op are headers worth it?? well imop and tons others yes! Sound, mid range power, peak power, and it picked up MPH at the track... find someone who can help and who has a lift.. there are tons of write-ups on the internet to help.. CJ pony parts has a good video.. and 3-5 hours doing the work yourself and learning a bit in the process is all worth it to me..

I first started with Pypes on my car and have also tried the BBK, well I still have the BBK because they fit better and perform the same on my car and I saved money after selling the pypes setup..

 

[momogt]

FWIW.......

After installing a set of Kooks shorties & JPC over the axle pipes I picked up 14 peak hp & 19 ft lbs of tq.
Great midrange results too.

No doubt long tubes would be even better but I'm pleased.

Dan

what were your mid range numbers