HELLION Twin Turbo kit install thread...

StevenStarke

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Current car: 2011 GT 6spd, with 3.73's (will prob swap to 3.31's), 2013 gt500 front end, eibach sportlines. GT500 Axle backs (but will be swapping these for muffler deletes most likely) SCT off the shelf flash.
Being installed: Hellion Twin kit with Ball Bearing 6262's. Vortech Non adjustable BAP. Pypes X pipe. AEM TruBoost Gauge/Controller (dual settings) mounted in a roush pod.
Changes to kit: I powdercoated the compressor housings a candy purple color. This is to match the Tial Wastegates and bov's I'm using, as well as the hats on the ID1000cc injectors. I also had all of the intercooler piping powder coated a high gloss graphite that will somewhat match my car. I'm going to be using D.O.T. approved 6mm air brake hose and quick release fittings for all vacuum lines. I'll also be removing the resonators in the stock OTA pipes and expanding the neck down porting of the X pipe to a full 3". I wrapped the downpipes with DEI titanium heat wrap and sprayed the headers with DEI silver HIGH temp paint, (4 coats). Didn't cure it though, so I'm not sure how this will hold up. Getting the driver side header scratched a decent amount of the paint off of the header, so I'm not sure this was even worth it.

I'll get back to this with more pictures soon, but I decided to really test my abilities with this one. I didn't want to pay any local shops to install it, so I decided to install it myself. In my driveway. Yup, no Garage, no air tools, no lift. Just a jack, jackstands, and hand tools. I've made 3 trips to lowes for more tools so far. I don't really have much time to work on the car, so it's basically 1-3 hours here and there when I can.

I'm about 8 hours in. As of right now when posting this, the driver side hellion header is on, and snug, but not tight yet. The passenger side stock header has 1/2 the bolts lose. I decided to remove all of the studs and replace with SS bolts even though hellion says you CAN use some of your stock studs. Unfortunately, I have the rarer size of header bolts (M10x1.5x30mm) so the ones they sent me don't fit, but that's not their fault. They're willing to replace them, but I decided to just get them local.




*Edit on 9/1/2013

It's on 4.5 psi right now, creeping up to 5.5 psi with the base tune. It needs to be touched up but still feels pretty good once it gets into boost. I have a few other things to button up such as recharging the AC, putting some more under tray screws in, etc. Oh and the pass side turbo is def on it's way out (I bought them barely used). So I borrowed a 3rd 6262 BB to put on while I got it rebuilt, but that one was in worse shape, so now I'm just going to have that one rebuilt and then swap it with my pass side one when it comes in.

I also swapped the 2013 heads on. And swapped my nurburgrings for 19x9.5 SVE drifts with 305/35/19 MT's on the back.

2nd/3rd gear pull on 5 psi
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rwq3EI9FZAw

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5.0GT

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A lot of people wanting to see TT builds and number and I'm one of them. Sounds like a great build.

In for pics and track numbers!
 

TurbOKerb

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I have the same issue with the header studs. The bolts they send are only for header clearance. Once I had all the studs removed I found out that my heads have the same early build coarse threads that you have. I simply reinstalled the original header studs and had John atHellion send the coarse thread bolts free of charge and only used four of them on cylinders 4 & 8 where clearance is required for the down pipes. Of coarse doing everything on jackstands makes it a much more difficult install but it is manageable. I would almost say you may be a lil north of your expected numbers on your high boost setting with this setup. 12.5 psi on an otherwise stock boss with a fuel system has made over 860 at the wheels
 

CSG

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I'm a little ahead of you. I hang the turbos tonight and I have the intercooler all mounted. My header bolts were also the "other" ones. I re-used all but the bottom two original studs. Those have to have bolts or they will hit the downpipes.
 

D.T.R

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Nice guys, keep the updates coming. My install will be starting soon... except that I will be swapping motors too. I wonder if I can bolt the manifolds to the aluminator and then drop it in? would it clear the strut towers and what not?
 

Torchy

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Good luck with the install. Did it in my garage with jack stands. No biggie. Hardest part is just making everything align up. Studs will always be better than bolts. I used all my factory studs.
 

StevenStarke

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The factory studs on my car had some rust and grime. So I wasn't feeling reusing them. I thought about getting SS studs but they only had bolts. The trick is to retighten them after it heats up and cools down. And just crank on them.

I know I may make more than my projected #'s. that's why Im being conservative. I don't want to have to swap a motor. I may turn it up on the dyno just crack 700whp for arguments sake but on the street I don't want to push it.
 

StevenStarke

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Wow. I'll be watching this post closely. EPIC. Yes...agreed....you are Brave My Man.

Yea tell me about it. On day one, I rounded off one of the rusted H pipe bolts and had to flat bed the car around the corner to have the H pipe torched off. I had them cut off the bottom portion of the header. No turning back now!!
 

TurbOKerb

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You can most definitely install the headers on your aluminator and then install in the car. I did my mmr block this way and it simplified everything....no need to jack the motor up off the jack stands later. I would also recommend punching the pan and installing the drain fittings outside the car. Do everything you can possibly do with the engine outside of the car to make the twin turbo install easier. Just make sure that when you go to install the engine the battery harness is on the aft side of the passenger motor mount or you will have to jack the motor up again..
 

TurbOKerb

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Bucket and myself have done the install both with engine in and out so if you have any questions or are looking for tips keep this thread going:beer:
 

TurbOKerb

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Steve, I will also be calling you soon for a tune. I believe Chris(BUCKET) talked to you about my setup a few weeks ago
 

D.T.R

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You can most definitely install the headers on your aluminator and then install in the car. I did my mmr block this way and it simplified everything....no need to jack the motor up off the jack stands later. I would also recommend punching the pan and installing the drain fittings outside the car. Do everything you can possibly do with the engine outside of the car to make the twin turbo install easier. Just make sure that when you go to install the engine the battery harness is on the aft side of the passenger motor mount or you will have to jack the motor up again..

Dude you got no idea how glad I am to hear this.
That's exactly what I wanted to do. Install the exhaust manifolds on the motor while it's outside the car, and then drop it in. Like you said, that'll make everything way easier. Now when pulling the stock motor out, does it come out with the stock headers on ?
 

04sleeper

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Good luck with the install. Did it in my garage with jack stands. No biggie. Hardest part is just making everything align up. Studs will always be better than bolts. I used all my factory studs.
How did you use the stud on the drivers side rear? It will stick out and hit the down pipe? :shrug:

I reused all but 2.
 

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