So upset. The dealership is like. “Yea we will diagnose it, and make it right” when really it wasn’t filled in the cross member and he drove it for two days with almost no coolant getting to engine. Aluminum heads with overheated engine not good
Yea. He admitted he just drained it and filled in coolant reservoir.the weird thing is that dealerships usually use an expensive vacuum fluid exchange machine to do a coolant flush, which is the preferred method and would not have caused this problem.
the only way this could have happened is if the tech manually drained the fluid but then refilled it only on the reservoir side and not at the crossover bung.
either that, or he didn't use the machine correctly.
edit: @vr4 can you confirm this? why would a dealership tech ever manually drain and fill a cooling system
Yep, those instructions tell you exactly how to do it. Too bad the Ford tech didn't follow them or look them up as he should have....They look at me like “buddy it’s a 20 year old car!” When really this car was never modded and hard to find period in good shape!!!
I do all my own maintenance/repairs short of bodywork/painting. I know my limitations. The only caveat is the wife’s car that is still under warrantyAnother reason why no one but me does any type of wrenching/maintenance work on my car.
Yea. He admitted he just drained it and filled in coolant reservoir.
i'm no lawyer but if they're admitting this i think you have a good case to get a replacement/remanufactured engine installed at their expense.
remamber, even though they may get it back up and running now the damage has probably has already been done.
this blows my mind
It was my neighbors fault. He is the mechanic that works at CLASSIC Ford and he was the one that drove it to and from work on both Monday and Tuesday. It was only Tuesday night that I drove it literally up to the top of my street and realize there was a problem. So it works in my favor legally. Due to He was the one transporting the vehicle and driving it and the mechanic that worked on it. He even stated and showed me that there was more coolant that came out. Then he put in and he didn’t know why? This whole headache is so annoying. It’s like I get my dream car and then all this Flippin drama.eh, they'll probably push back that's hes at least partially at fault for continuing to drive the car after the first incident.
if it passes a compression and leak down tests and theres no glitter in the oil it may well be fine.
It was my neighbors fault. He is the mechanic that works at CLASSIC Ford and he was the one that drove it to and from work on both Monday and Tuesday. It was only Tuesday night that I drove it literally up to the top of my street and realize there was a problem. So it works in my favor legally. Due to He was the one transporting the vehicle and driving it and the mechanic that worked on it. He even stated and showed me that there was more coolant that came out. Then he put in and he didn’t know why? This whole headache is so annoying. It’s like I get my dream car and then all this Flippin drama.
Laziness. Or the machine was brokenthe weird thing is that dealerships usually use an expensive vacuum fluid exchange machine to do a coolant flush, which is the preferred method and would not have caused this problem.
the only way this could have happened is if the tech manually drained the fluid but then refilled it only on the reservoir side and not at the crossover bung.
either that, or he didn't use the machine correctly.
edit: @vr4 can you confirm this? why would a dealership tech ever manually drain and fill a cooling system
Wish I had 1/2 your bodywork/paint skills, or perhaps even your patience. You did a fantastic job on your classic.Yep, those instructions tell you exactly how to do it. Too bad the Ford tech didn't follow them or look them up as he should have....
Getting some of your money back is the only thing that can be done. Getting a new motor is a fantasy. The first thing you should do BEFORE... repeat.. BEFORE u buy a blown/turbocharged car is to do a leakdown/compression test. The reason why should be pretty clear now. I think the motor will check out OK though... its gonna have some leakage, but thats to be expected at 100K.It was my neighbors fault. He is the mechanic that works at CLASSIC Ford and he was the one that drove it to and from work on both Monday and Tuesday. It was only Tuesday night that I drove it literally up to the top of my street and realize there was a problem. So it works in my favor legally. Due to He was the one transporting the vehicle and driving it and the mechanic that worked on it. He even stated and showed me that there was more coolant that came out. Then he put in and he didn’t know why? This whole headache is so annoying. It’s like I get my dream car and then all this Flippin drama.
Wish I had 1/2 your bodywork/paint skills, or perhaps even your patience. You did a fantastic job on your classic.
Have the techs see what temp the fans are supposed to come on. Last year after I had a flush and fill the same thing happened to me. Thought it was a BHG and it turned out the car wasn't burped properly, and the main culprit was the fans set to come on at over 220 degrees. I'm just wondering. Seems eerily similar to the problem I had.
Factory settings are 220 low 240 high
no they come on earlier than that -
this is from the service manual:
c, f, condition
84, 181, normal operating temp - min
93, 200, normal operating temp - max
100, 212, warm - fan comes on
105, 221, very warm
113, 235, hot
120, 248, overheat
125, 257, overheat - coolant is boiling at 16psi
low speed fan turns on at 100/212
low speed fan turns off at 97/206
high speed fan turns on at 107/224
high speed fan turns off at 104/219
no they come on earlier than that -
this is from the service manual:
c, f, condition
84, 181, normal operating temp - min
93, 200, normal operating temp - max
100, 212, warm - fan comes on
105, 221, very warm
113, 235, hot
120, 248, overheat
125, 257, overheat - coolant is boiling at 16psi
low speed fan turns on at 100/212
low speed fan turns off at 97/206
high speed fan turns on at 107/224
high speed fan turns off at 104/219
Ok.. so they had their best mustang mechanic work on it. He has a great reputation around area! (Should’ve had him do it in first place and not neighbor). He bled it and then refilled and with vacuum. He checked oil, spark plugs … no coolant. He checked compression of all 8 cylinders and they were all good and about same. He drove it some. Warmed it up and got on it a little bit. It seems fine. They had me come up and drive it. I did. Sounded ok but seemsed not as umph… maybe in my head. But overall ok. Now it’s still up there. He will check fluids again and they will detail it. Now we will work on some type of guarantee. 3-5k miles. I’m thinking miles over months. I don’t drive maybe a 1k miles a year on my mustangs. What do you guys think??Getting some of your money back is the only thing that can be done. Getting a new motor is a fantasy. The first thing you should do BEFORE... repeat.. BEFORE u buy a blown/turbocharged car is to do a leakdown/compression test. The reason why should be pretty clear now. I think the motor will check out OK though... its gonna have some leakage, but thats to be expected at 100K.