I have the cover off but the battery was dead when I got home and by the time I got a hold of a working charger it was late. Its charged now so this afternoon I'll try it sans chip.
So wait a second. Which came first, the chicken or the egg? In other words, before you had no fuel pump prime, etc, so what got you that back? The relay or removing the chip?
If it was the chip, then there is you issue and the reason it won't start is more than likely it's flooding due to the larger injectors..........mat the gas and hold it there to take car of that problem.
If the relay brought the pump back to life, try reinstalling the chip and see if it won't start then.
The relay brought back the pump, I had the chip out and no start and chip back in again no start.
When I went to connect the code reader and run the process the pumps didn't prime and it wouldn't run any test. I disconnected the scanner and turned the key to ignition and no pumps. I then shook the new relays and the pumps came on. Now when I turn the key on it won't run the pumps unless I tap the relay. The couple times I tried to start it before the code reader try came on fine. Is the code reader popping my relays?
I'm really confused I've tested all the ignition stuff swapped distributors.
Did I mention it has a MSD ignition box? Could that be keeping it from running tests? I have spark at the plugs.
Yep, replaced em and now they are out again. I can't imagine what is causing them to trip. The only change was the code reader, before it they worked after it they stopped working unless I turn the key on and tap them.
The relays are nothing more that switches, so they aren't tripping in the sense like a breaker or fuse. They're either open or closed. What I can't figure out is why tapping on them would do anything unless there was a wiring issue where they plug into the harness.
If your EEC relay doesn't click when you turn the key, this is why the computer isn't turning on. I don't have schematics in front of me, but I believe that is a direct feed from the ignition switch to the relay, so maybe you've got an ignition switch problem?
I would recommend getting a voltmeter and start tracking the voltage back from the source to the ignition switch, switch to the EEC relay, and so on...
I'm getting power at the red/green wire leading into the EEC relay, I'm also getting power at the fp relay red wire. The relay is getting power and sending power out.
I followed the red wire to the MAF and found this
That can't be good. Could that be causing my no start/no test condition?
No fuel yet because I can't get a new relay until tomorrow.
The more I think about it I wonder if it is the computer that has gone bad because of the dim cel and the fact that I'm getting power to the ecu. Does that sound crazy? I'm gonna order a new pigtail for obvious reasons (I've noted a reduction in idle quality lately) and I'll pop the new fuel relay in.
Oh an interesting thing to note is that when it popped the relay yesterday it popped both the fuel and wot ac relay, both are new (that is what the identical relay is right?)
It keeps me thinking that it is the ecu going haywire