Help with Swaybar noise

[Jabooh1]

Posted this in the boss forum but this one gets much more traffic and the issue is not boss specific.


So I recently developed a sound, pop or deep low clunk, in the front suspension on both sides, when going over bumpy roads. It is also noticeable on turns that have a high grade (in and out of driveway on an angle makes it sometimes).

Definetly in the front. I am lowered on Steeda boss springs so I retightened everything associated with that install. End link to strut, two strut bolts, 4 small strut tower bolts, large nut on strut holding strut tower plate. Nothing was loose.

End links were done with zero preload on the swaybar.

I then disconnected the passenger side end link completely and removed it. Drove the same patch of road and no noise. No sound on either side.

To me that means end links or sway bar bushings. Car only has 13,000 miles and bushings look good. The end links seemed ok. The bolts articulate but don't seem to have any in or out movement that would make and clanking.

How do I know if a end link is bad? Also when disconnecting the end link would that make the sound go away if it was the strut mount?

Nothing visually seems worn or loose.

Ideas?

 

[Sick_Mustang]

I had the same issue. Mine turned out to be the control arms.


There is a TSB out on it. Ford replaced both of mine along with the heat shields free of charge the same day.

Not sure if that helps but ya. I would take it in and let Ford deal with it.

For what it's worth my car only had 3500 miles.

 

[Jabooh1]

If it was an issue with the A arm (presumably the bushings) would that disappear with the end link is disconnected?

 

[Ron Mexico]

Do you have access to ramps so you can tighten the end links loaded? Sounds like end links to me. Maybe go aftermarket adjustable if the noise persists.

 

[Jabooh1]

Do you have access to ramps so you can tighten the end links loaded? Sounds like end links to me. Maybe go aftermarket adjustable if the noise persists.

Does that make a difference? I thought both just needed to be at the same level (i.e. No torque on the SB). I can put stands under the a arm and torque.

 

[Ron Mexico]

Does that make a difference? I thought both just needed to be at the same level (i.e. No torque on the SB). I can put stands under the a arm and torque.

I've gotten a clunk most times when I tightened them with no load. Wish I could remember who or what told me to do them loaded to avoid noises.

 

[twistedneck]

probably loose brackets they may have either backed off at the frame mounts or somehow the bushings are clunking back and forth inside the brackets. these bushings are bonded to the stabar and they rotate against the inside of the bracket.

just take it to the dealer and ask them to swap the front assembly. its a very high quality part made by a German company here in the US.. I don't think Ford will have an issue.

Driveway events are always the hardest on stabars.

 

[Coyote13]

Control arms. I have the same noise. I have steeda adjustable endlinks and nothing changed. Im not too sure on how exactly to position the endlinks but still didnt notice any change.

 

[Jabooh1]

Control arms. I have the same noise. I have steeda adjustable endlinks and nothing changed. Im not too sure on how exactly to position the endlinks but still didnt notice any change.

Does you sound go away if the end links are off?

 

[Coyote13]

Havent tried. I might do that this weekend

 

[Jabooh1]

Havent tried. I might do that this weekend

If it isn't too much please do. Mine was gone with only disconnecting the passenger side.

I have access to another 2013 boss Laguna Seca so I can (with a case of beer) borrow an A arm to see what happens.

 

[Jabooh1]

Other than visual is there any way to tell if the A arm bushings are bad?

 

[drkmrkiv]

I've resigned myself to the fact I'm going to have to get aftermarket end links. I'll probably go with a Steeda bump-steer kit as well.

 

[Jabooh1]

Im going to put the car back up today and look for contact, tighten the end links without the suspension hanging, look at sway bar brackets and inspect everything for the umpteenth time.

I might get new strut tower mounts to see if they are bad. Don't know how to tell them either. Mine seems to only make noise when the swaybar is under load (twisting) therefore shouldn't be strut mounts.

 

[Jabooh1]

Ok SVTP Braintrust..... Put the car in the air again today. Checked all bolts one would touch to switch springs. All torqued properly.

Springs are seated correctly.

No play in end links, swaybar brackets, or anything else.

With only the passenger end link removed the pop/clank sound goes away. It is a beater sound than what you make when you pop your finger out of your mouth. Also the swaybar has to be under load to do it. Bumps that hit each wheel at the same time don't seem to produce the sound.

How do I check if a strut out is bad? Going to remove struts tomorrow and look for anything there.

If it was something attached to the strut wouldn't it make the sound when the end link is off?

No decline in performance.... just annoying as piss!!!!

 

[Coyote13]

I had the car in the air for an oil change but ran out of time due to being on lunch break so I couldnt remove my endlinks. If the sound goes away with the endlinks off im leaving them off so I might have sime steeda endlinks available. If I were you id have it diagnosed at a good ford dealership. Its cheaper then throwing parts at it. Ive been down that road before.

 

[Jabooh1]

Ok. Car 3 - Paul 0.

I essentially dissasembeled the strut assembly as if changing springs and the same noise is there are reinstalled.

Next up... take end link from another '13 Boss and if that doesn't work swap strut assemblies. Luckily there are two '13 bosses in the family (#669 and #736) so this will take place next weekend.

I have gone too far to give up now!! I will prevail.

But if that doesn't work then I will take it to ford.

 

[Coyote13]

Good luck. Post what the result were

 

[Jabooh1]

So I got the wheels off again today. Placed a 4x4 about 5' long under the driver side rotor and compressed the spring. The strut bolt at the strut tower moves and a slight popping can be heard. Havering someone help me it seems that it is definitely the upper strut mount. I will be ordering replacements and that should cure the noise.

 

[Jabooh1]

So installed the steeda HD strut mounts. They were a PITA to get to seat flat without popping the bearing. I did the passenger side maybe 10 times and the driver 3. Royal PITA. The pass went in with maybe a 1mm gap on the bearing. When the spring is free it just doesn't sit flat. I assume that when some force gets on it (i.e. Weight of the car) it will be fine.

Anyway got done and went down the road where the popping happens and....






Nothing!!!! It's fixed. Camber is totally out of whack but no damn noise.