HFS! Beyond Pissed...Broken Hood Stud

[THunterW]

I hate to say it and I hope I'm wrong but I seriously doubt that the epoxy is going to have enough structural integrity to hold that bolt in place if there's any sort of pulling pressure put on it.

The original stud couldn't pull through due to the head on it and it being installed in a reinforcing plate, you've got a flush mounted bolt with nothing but epoxy stopping it from pulling out.

I'd be nervous about that repair holding, time will tell I guess.

-Steve

I agree, I am a bit nervous about this working but I think I'm out of options at this point unless I cut that plate out of the inner layer of fiberglass and weld the bolt in.

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[MaximumVelocity]

You can also install a flush mount NutSert (basically and expanding rivet with internal threads and then just use a bolt or stud and nut to fasten the hinge back on.

Your epoxy fix is fine as long as the head of the bolt and / or washer is too large to come through the hole ...or did you just shove the bolt head back through the hole from the outside ( not a good fix)?

 

[04sleeper]

OK, what's the difference between the redline tuning kit and the OP's kit? Because this sounds like something that is about to be stricken from my mod list.:nono::burn:

The Redline Tuning Kit does not hook up to the stock hood brackets. It comes with new brackets and uses rivets to secure the brackets to the hood.

Redline Tuning - Hood Support, gas springs, hood QuickLIFT, hood damper, no prop rod, hood lift

Some people don't want to drill into the hood, so they buy the kits that bolts to the factory hood brackets. But these kits use large brackets and have higher pressure struts because of the lower pivot point on the hood. I personally did not care for the looks of the brackets and chose to use the Redline kit instead. It is what I have on my 2013 as well. Although on the newer cars there is no drilling required because it uses a special insert.

Hope this helps.

 

[Steve@Tasca]

You could have made and still could make a sheet metal plate to go over it, basically like a large fender washer but thinner and there would be any number of ways to attach that to the hood.

Adhesive, rivets, screws.....

-Steve

 

[Steve@Tasca]

Your epoxy fix is fine as long as the head of the bolt and / or washer is too large to come through the hole ...or did you just shove the bolt head back through the hole from the outside ( not a good fix)?

Looks like it's pushed in from the outside to me.

 

[THunterW]

You can also install a flush mount NutSert (basically and expanding rivet with internal threads and then just use a bolt or stud and nut to fasten the hinge back on.

Your epoxy fix is fine as long as the head of the bolt and / or washer is too large to come through the hole ...or did you just shove the bolt head back through the hole from the outside ( not a good fix)?

I had to shove the bolt head through the hole from the outside, there's a hole about 6 inches from where the stud holes are but I didn't see a way to place the bolt through the hole from the inside with the limited clearance. Maybe I could rig something up, and use a washer to keep it from pulling through and re-bond it.

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[THunterW]

I might just bite the bullet and get a Dremel and cut out some of the surrounding fiberglass and put a large washer between the bolt and the mount plate and re-attach everything that way.

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[THunterW]

You can also install a flush mount NutSert (basically and expanding rivet with internal threads and then just use a bolt or stud and nut to fasten the hinge back on.

Your epoxy fix is fine as long as the head of the bolt and / or washer is too large to come through the hole ...or did you just shove the bolt head back through the hole from the outside ( not a good fix)?

Just looked at some NutSerts, I don't think those would work since I bored the hole out to about 3/8".

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[Steve@Tasca]

I might just bite the bullet and get a Dremel and cut out some of the surrounding fiberglass and put a large washer between the bolt and the mount plate and re-attach everything that way.

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I had that thought as well but didn't want to be the one to mention cutting holes in the hood.

Done properly this would likely be your best bet. You would want to figure out a way to prevent the washer/bolt from spinning once installed but that shouldn't be all that difficult really.

-Steve

 

[cj428mach]

Just looked at some NutSerts, I don't think those would work since I bored the hole out to about 3/8".

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A nutsert would probably be perfect for this project depending upon how it handled the fiberglass. The outside bore of a nutsert is usually way way bigger than the actual bolt size.

 

[THunterW]

Just looked at some NutSerts, I don't think those would work since I bored the hole out to about 3/8".
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A nutsert would probably be perfect for this project depending upon how it handled the fiberglass. The outside bore of a nutsert is usually way way bigger than the actual bolt size.

There were some I found that looked fairly thick with a decent size lip, I might look into some of those. It would definitely be a lot cheaper than purchasing a MIG welder for this one job, even though it wouldn't hurt to have for later.

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[THunterW]

I let the epoxy weld cure over 24 hours and when I checked it, it was rock solid. I know there is a lot of skepticism with the way I attempted to repair this stud issue, but I am going to go through with using the hood this way. The worst that could happen is it pulls out or rotates on me when I install the hinge and the MMD hood strut mount, but if that happens I will do a more drastic and solid repair like some of you have advised. Next step is for me to sand down and level the excess epoxy and paint it.

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[cj428mach]

I let the epoxy weld cure over 24 hours and when I checked it, it was rock solid. I know there is a lot of skepticism with the way I attempted to repair this stud issue, but I am going to go through with using the hood this way. The worst that could happen is it pulls out or rotates on me when I install the hinge and the MMD hood strut mount, but if that happens I will do a more drastic and solid repair like some of you have advised. Next step is for me to sand down and level the excess epoxy and paint it.

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I don't think there is much load on the bolt so if it holds when you tighten it down I think you'll be ok.

 

[THunterW]

I let the epoxy weld cure over 24 hours and when I checked it, it was rock solid. I know there is a lot of skepticism with the way I attempted to repair this stud issue, but I am going to go through with using the hood this way. The worst that could happen is it pulls out or rotates on me when I install the hinge and the MMD hood strut mount, but if that happens I will do a more drastic and solid repair like some of you have advised. Next step is for me to sand down and level the excess epoxy and paint it.

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I don't think there is much load on the bolt so if it holds when you tighten it down I think you'll be ok.

Yeah I think it will hold. The hood is really light, and the only thing I'm slightly worried is about someone mentioned with these bolt-on hood strut kits, there is a greater load put on the hinge mount areas compared to the Redline rivet-in kit. Hopefully will have it finished and bolted back on by this weekend.

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[Steve@Tasca]

My only concern is to do with hood lift at the rear edge at higher speeds.

Years ago I ran my '69 Skylark with no hinges and a set of pins holding the front and as the speeds went up the rear of the hood would lift and that was a heavy steel hood.

Your fix may last the life of the car, I'd just suggest keeping a close eye on it.

-Steve

 

[THunterW]

Update:

I finished sanding down the epoxy and tried my best at repainting that area with aerosol touch-up paint (and discovered I suck at it). Installed the hood today and it had trouble latching, so I had to take the hood back off and sanded down the epoxy until it was completely flush with the hood. Reinstalled and it shuts and latches now and is holding up fine so far.

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[Steve@Tasca]

Very cool, hopefully it holds up for you.

 

[THunterW]

Man, I hope so!

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[R.D.P.]

Thumbs up for tackling the problem. I would have been so pissed when the bolt snapped I would have probably left it for at least a few weeks. This also has me second guessing what I want to do about getting rid of that horrible looking rod. I'm honestly leaning towards the redline after this, I'd rather deal with a little drilled hole screw up than an issue with an actual hood attachment point.

 

[THunterW]

If I was smarter and used common sense to clean off the paint from the threads when I started the mod, none of this would have happened. That's all you gotta do to make sure the studs don't break off or strip out. I used a M6 x 1.0 die on the threads of all of the remaining studs and it cleaned them up really well before I reinstalled the hood.

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