LOL
That's the plan.
Just remember the belts do stretch a bit under impact.
2 inches......
That's the plan.
Just remember the belts do stretch a bit under impact.
2 inches......
Homemade Seat Mounts
- Thread starter Lumpydogs
- Start date
For a 6 point would I be ok mounting the "crotch straps" to the front seat mount with a unit like this?
This is the UPR bracked for a 5 point
Here is the Wolfe bracket which I am assuming could be used for either 5 or 6 point harnesses
This is the UPR bracked for a 5 point
Here is the Wolfe bracket which I am assuming could be used for either 5 or 6 point harnesses
Last edited:
Here's some quick shots of the seat bracket. I'm still working on the correct position of the seat.
You can only see the rear supports of the seat bracket with the seat installed.
You can only see the rear supports of the seat bracket with the seat installed.
I did some research on this before I mounted my six point when I had my stock seats. CC.com had lots of info, more than I could absorb. As you say, Dave, the overriding idea was to keep the harness from riding up.
What most seemed to suggest when you have no sub belt slot and six point is to have the two sub belts mount to the outside of the seat, somewhat in line with the cam lock, so you're actually sitting on the belts with your thighs. This has the straightest downward pull in that scenario. I don't have any good pics showing this, and have new seats now, but these kinda give you the idea.
Here's where my outside mount was...
And you can kinda see how they were routed here...
In use, they'd be much more under my butt cheeks and pull at more of a downward angle. But they were in extreme close proximity to my T&B.
And I musta been left out. I only came with one twig. :shrug:
What most seemed to suggest when you have no sub belt slot and six point is to have the two sub belts mount to the outside of the seat, somewhat in line with the cam lock, so you're actually sitting on the belts with your thighs. This has the straightest downward pull in that scenario. I don't have any good pics showing this, and have new seats now, but these kinda give you the idea.
Here's where my outside mount was...
And you can kinda see how they were routed here...
In use, they'd be much more under my butt cheeks and pull at more of a downward angle. But they were in extreme close proximity to my T&B.
And I musta been left out. I only came with one twig. :shrug:
I am getting ready to put aftermarket seats in my '98... I need to learn more about the 6-point I guess.
"twigs and berries"
"twigs and berries"
I only came with one twig.
Alrighty, then.
Y'all knew what I meant. :lol1:
Alrighty, then.
Y'all knew what I meant. :lol1:
LOL Dave
So I should go with a 6 ponint? So I will not need a seat that has the slot for the 5-point?
So I should go with a 6 ponint? So I will not need a seat that has the slot for the 5-point?
http://www.simpsonraceproducts.com/safety/safety.aspx?page=restinfo_seating#popUpright
Pay attention to the "mount inline with chest or no more than 20 degrees behind..
Some belts were made to sit on the leg straps and then click into latch. I used these in my formula ford. Note you adjust T&B's prior to final clinching down of belts......These are mostly for formula cars where you are almost supine.
Note they suggest you don't use the small 5 point slot for 6 point, as this compresses the webbing. You want everything pulling is as straight a line as you can. Remember high school physics and pulleys/ lever. Every time you lay a strap around something and make it change directions, you are creating a pulley and putting more strain on the belt.
If I were using a 6 point, I would get longer bolts and mount them where the front mounts of the seat are. You may wrinkle the seat. On old Fox GT, I ran the belts behind the thigh bolster.
Other way, if leg straps are long enough, is attach to rear seat mounts, run between the back and seat cushions, under your butt and then to latch. Just be sure you know where the adjustment hardware is... Not in contact with body parts.
About mounting to the seat its own self.... If mount breaks, belt is going to go slack. If you mount it to the floorboard, you know you aren't going past the belts.
Last edited:
Thanks Dave... If oyu make it up to the March meeting (29th) i will pick your brain about it.
Thanks,
mike
Thanks,
mike
This is the UPR bracked for a 5 point
I can't find this on UPR's web site. Any idea who sells it?
^ that would work, if you didn't want to drill hole in floorboard.
March meeting (29th)
Hope to be road racing at CMP that weekend.
We will be up at Nashville Speedway a couple of times this year.
http://www.rivergate5speed.com/scca/timetrials/nashville.html
http://www.rivergate5speed.com/scca/race/nashville08.html
March meeting (29th)
Hope to be road racing at CMP that weekend.
We will be up at Nashville Speedway a couple of times this year.
http://www.rivergate5speed.com/scca/timetrials/nashville.html
http://www.rivergate5speed.com/scca/race/nashville08.html
Last edited:
Here's how I ended up routing my 6 point harness. The Hunsaker seats have slots in the side. Not useful for a lap belt, but the submarine belts go through just fine.
T&B are just fine.
My problem was a lack of space on the inboard side for a hook for the sub belt like the outside, so both inside belts go to the lap belt bolt. I'm not sure that's a good idea, and plan to try and solve the problem.
Jeff, are using the stock belt mounts?
T&B are just fine.
My problem was a lack of space on the inboard side for a hook for the sub belt like the outside, so both inside belts go to the lap belt bolt. I'm not sure that's a good idea, and plan to try and solve the problem.
Jeff, are using the stock belt mounts?
OK, so Bruce was right. The race seats are not going to be comfy enough for long trips. However, since the new seat bracket mounts to the factory locations I can swap out the factory seat for race seat in three minutes.
The new plan is to bolt the race seat in the passenger seat and drive to the track in the factory seat. At the track I can quickly swap out the factory seat for the racing seat and leave the factory seat in the pits. Best of both worlds
The new plan is to bolt the race seat in the passenger seat and drive to the track in the factory seat. At the track I can quickly swap out the factory seat for the racing seat and leave the factory seat in the pits. Best of both worlds
OK, so Bruce was right. The race seats are not going to be comfy enough for long trips. However, since the new seat bracket mounts to the factory locations I can swap out the factory seat for race seat in three minutes.
The new plan is to bolt the race seat in the passenger seat and drive to the track in the factory seat. At the track I can quickly swap out the factory seat for the racing seat and leave the factory seat in the pits. Best of both worlds
Jeff:
How far is your drive to the track? I would think that could be done? :shrug:
Gingerman 3.5 hours (can be done)
VIR 12 hours (no way, these old bones don't recover like they used too)
VIR 12 hours (no way, these old bones don't recover like they used too)
Are these the seats you that have? http://www.hunsakersports.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=228
Did you order with the sliders and brackets minus the belts?
Thanks,
Mike
Stop by my house on the way and take a beer break to rest up some and it is completely do-able:beer::rockon:
I owe you several beers at this point anyways!:thumbsup:
Tom,
Thanks for the invite. :beer:
p.s. My favorite brand of beer is FREE :coolman:
Thanks for the invite. :beer:
p.s. My favorite brand of beer is FREE :coolman:
Mike, essentially those are the same as mine, except in vinyl, where mine are cloth.
I bought mine used, and they did come with the sliders, but I'm using stock Mustang sliders and brackets.
Last edited:
Users who are viewing this thread
