How much boost on stock Mach motor
- Thread starter Westtt80
- Start date
Motor, clutch, and trans both have different levels of what they can take. Just remember it's not "what they can take" it's "how long can they take it"
You can make 400hp/tq and beat it like it owes you money every time you take it out and itll last X amount of miles.....
You can make 450 and get into boost once in a blue moon and it'll go 5X miles.
My understanding is torque is the real killer of both motor and trans, but from what I have seen browsing multiple forums I want to say 400-450 absolute max. So I wouldn't base it around how much boost , rather on your hp and torque numbers.
I would recommend getting a compression test prior to tuning so you have a base line....then you can check in periodically on your motor health.
How many miles are on the motor / trans / clutch?
Also see what other people have to say , mach1 registry wouldn't be a bad place to check out. Some real knowledgeable folks over there too.
You can make 400hp/tq and beat it like it owes you money every time you take it out and itll last X amount of miles.....
You can make 450 and get into boost once in a blue moon and it'll go 5X miles.
My understanding is torque is the real killer of both motor and trans, but from what I have seen browsing multiple forums I want to say 400-450 absolute max. So I wouldn't base it around how much boost , rather on your hp and torque numbers.
I would recommend getting a compression test prior to tuning so you have a base line....then you can check in periodically on your motor health.
How many miles are on the motor / trans / clutch?
Also see what other people have to say , mach1 registry wouldn't be a bad place to check out. Some real knowledgeable folks over there too.
The motor and trans have just under 40k miles. I’m almost just wondering if I should cut my losses and ditch the Mach one motor. I got ripped off by getting this car. Was told it was a teksid block. Mainly my fault for not doing the research.
If I could find a forged motor I would just buy it and crank the boost up
I made 460hp at almost 12lbs of boost for about 15k miles before it blew my piston in the #8 cylinder.... before it blew my motor, I put drag radials on the car and took out 2nd gear in the transmission though. Hah. So I had a built tko600, then the motor took a crap about 5k miles later...
Instead of getting a new block, I had my aluminum block bored and stroked with forged internals. Motor is built for around 1250hp, going to be pushing a little less than that really soon so I’ll keep you updated on how the Mach block holds up
so the 04 Mach one motor is aluminum? I’m confused. I need to grab some pictures to find out what I really have
Yes aluminum block but not Teksid its a WAP block which isn't as strong. That said I don't remember seeing them fail often. Especially if you're not shooting for crazy numbers. Iron blocks are cheap and Teksids are only like $500 if you plan on building the engine anyway.
Yes the block on all mach1's are aluminum. WAP blocks to be specific which stands for Windsor Automotive Plant. These were the first aluminum blocks cast by Ford starting with the 99 Cobras. Some Cobras got left over Teksid blocks. Teksids were cast in Italy and are regarded as the strongest blocks available. The Teksid blocks were cast from 93-98 and put in cobras and lincoln mark 8s.
The WAP block gets a bad rap by some claiming that it's weak and can't hold power. This is not true. Will it handle as much as a Teksid? No. It is however still plenty strong for most people and there are people pushing them past 600 rear wheel.
Put good rods and pistons in it and have fun.
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The WAP block in stock form will handle anything you can throw at it short of looking for 7s in the qtr mile.
General consensus is that 400-450rwhp is the limit for a stock, non forged dohc 4.6, regardless of year. If you beat the piss out of it, it'll fail sooner. Once you put put heat/pressure in to it, the rings and pistons get mad at you.
General consensus is that 400-450rwhp is the limit for a stock, non forged dohc 4.6, regardless of year. If you beat the piss out of it, it'll fail sooner. Once you put put heat/pressure in to it, the rings and pistons get mad at you.
Ive always seen 450-500 range being where you'd wanna stop on a Mach 1 motor. I ran mine that range but only for a few thousand miles before I came up on a deal for a built motor.
You could build the current block or look either a teksid or 3 valve/aluminator 4.6 block and sell that one off. With any kind of aggressive clutch and tire combo I'd be looking at upgrading the input shaft on the 3650 at a minimum (I went Magnum T56 and don't regret it for a second)
You could build the current block or look either a teksid or 3 valve/aluminator 4.6 block and sell that one off. With any kind of aggressive clutch and tire combo I'd be looking at upgrading the input shaft on the 3650 at a minimum (I went Magnum T56 and don't regret it for a second)
I've been running a Vortech V1 S at 12psi for 4 years. On e85 making over 500rwhp through an auto on the stock motor for the last 2 years. Prior to the e85 I was on 93 for 2 years making 460rwhp. Loaded up my e85 race tune last month, which probably makes around 550rwhp, and headed to the track. Car ran 10.87 @ 128 at 3600lbs. Last year ran 11.00 @ 126mph on my 508rwhp street tune.
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Step back for a minute.
As mentioned.
Teksid - 90's aluminum block made in Italy.
WAP +99 aluminum block made in Windsor
If you are not going for +800whp, it doesn't matter. Even then, it doesn't really matter.
A Mach 1 never had a Teksid so for it to be a Mach 1 engine it would be a WAP which means you didn't get "ripped off"
Also, just for clarity -
Block strength doesn't mean Engine Strength. All the 4.6 Blocks can do +600hp without blinking an eye.
However, their rods and pistons explode starting as low as 350hp.
So let's back up.
I'm assuming you have a 99/01 Cobra with a 2004 Mach 1 engine. Is the engine from a manual or automatic Mach 1?
5spd engines got Kellogg Forged Cranks (like the terminator). Automatics got cast Iron standard 4.6 GT cranks.
All Mach 1's (and 99/01 Cobra) got shit powder steel rods and cast pistons. Guys claim 450hp is the max but I've seen them pop as low as 350whp. It becomes a game of what brand of dyno, WHP vs Crank, how much timing, how lean, altitude, fuel, detonation, etc.
So just plopping a On3 Turbo onto a stock engine is enough to push you to the engines limit. I'm willing to bet you have a Cobra with a Mach engine because the previous owner blew up his Cobras engine, grabbed a Mach to swap and unload the turd ASAP.
So what is your budget? If you're running a 5spd, that turd won't hold much power either. A Magnum swap will set you back $5k with bell-housing, clutch and drive shaft.
Those powder rods are ticking time bombs.
A Coyote Rod is a drop in as I recall and costs $32/each. Those are good to 600hp. A full set used on ebay is $175.
H-beam forged eagles are $500 and Chinnisium Rods are $335 (and arguably unbranded eagles).
JE Pistons are $330.
Block prep will be at least $500
Gaskets, ARP Headstuds, crank... Etc
You'll be $4k into it before you know it.
If you're on a budget but skilled and have time, you could just toss in some used Coyote Rods, new bearings and rings, head gasket and head studs. Do the cooling mod while it's out.
For $1500 you'll have an engine that can get beat on at the 400whp level with a good tune.
If you are not skilled and don't have $9k to build everything, return the car to a safe 350-380whp, turn the boost down and enjoy a car that's making 2x the WHP of any GT out there can run with stock/tuned Terminators at what I guess is the fraction of a Terminator's price these days.
^^^ great post, lots of good info!
I know some people use the Boss302 rods as well
Also WAP block is lighter than Teksid by like 15lb
I know some people use the Boss302 rods as well
Also WAP block is lighter than Teksid by like 15lb
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