How To Adjust Clutch Cable

thomas91169

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K shifting is way smoother but i think i have it engaging still too high, it held 4th on a WOT run but banging from 1-2 and 2-3 it took a while for it to fully grab, Ill adjust it a bit more tomorrow.

At least i can bang gears now. Before i was getting locked out of 2nd at WOT, and it got so bad every once in a while id get locked out of 2nd during a cruising shift (and at cruise i shift with the shift light lol)
 

SCT2003

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This works guys...some useful advice tho:

1) Cut the metal plate with a dremal, much easier and cleaner than the "bend" method.

2) Taking 5 minutes to remove the seat is a must. This will save you valuable time (and pain) in the long run.

3) Having your buddy there to help depress the clutch will let you focus on the adjuster and or cutting the plate. Just have him stand outside of the car and push the clutch in to the floor when needed. This is much easier than trying to do everything yourself and or "jerry rigging" some device to depress the clutch pedal while you're all "cramped" up under the dash.

4) Start off with 1 or 2 clicks. I used a handle (hammer) to push up on the adjuster for 2 clicks total.

5) Take it for a ride and row through the gears like never before.

6) BTW...Please read the instructions. Read the instructions again. Read this entire thread. Do not post anything until you have read all the instructions and this entire thread. Do not say, "It doesn't work" when you haven't actually gone through all the steps. The metal plate must be bent or cut so that adjuster does not come into contact with it!!!

I didn't think my car had it in her. I've had this car for over two years now and I was so tired of crappy shifting. I thought it was me but driving my friend's Vette proved otherwise. I thought it was the stock shifter but an aftermarket upgrade didn't make a difference. I thought it was the clutch but that sucker still holds 466 HP to the rollers with no clutch slip. I was begining to think my tranny and car were some kind of "Devil's Child" but that all changed after I performed this mod.

Thanks to JMProductions and ZXMustang for sharing this mod...I can enjoy banging the gears once more!!!

Later...Dave
 
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ZXMustang

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Glad I could help so many of you with this. I first did this a long time ago, and never had an issue with the stock clutch again.

Also, when u bend the metal bracket, bend it toward the firewall. It will be out of the way and u can bend it back if u want. Nice rewriteup man.
 

SCT2003

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Glad I could help so many of you with this. I first did this a long time ago, and never had an issue with the stock clutch again.

Also, when u bend the metal bracket, bend it toward the firewall. It will be out of the way and u can bend it back if u want. Nice rewriteup man.


By far this is the best mod I've made to my Terminator...

What good is all that power if you can't quickly shift your car anyways???

I tried doing this mod a year ago and got too frustrated trying to get to the quadrant under the dash and pushing on the clutch at the same time. This time around I removed the seat for better access and had my buddy Joel(JMProductions) help out.

Quick, easy and the car shifts like butter now!!!

Thanks for sharing this mod with us!!!

:beer:

Later...Dave
 
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thomas91169

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Glad I could help so many of you with this. I first did this a long time ago, and never had an issue with the stock clutch again.

Also, when u bend the metal bracket, bend it toward the firewall. It will be out of the way and u can bend it back if u want. Nice rewriteup man.

if you bend it towards the firewall, itll depress the clutch switch.

unless im backwards. In any case, dont bend it towards the clutch switch. if it permanently depresses the clutch switch, youll probably wonder why your car doesnt start.
 

trmin8ter03

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If I understang this mod right, are you guys tightnign up the cable so the clutch disingages sooner when you press the clutch down. Isnt this keeping the tob pressed up against the pressure plate with the added tension. Dont you guys think this would wear out the tob. I just did this mod today but i put slack in the cable so the tob is riding on the pressure plate all the time. Now there is about an inch of endplay where the clutch pedal moves up and own before it starts moving the cable. I dont really have a problem shifting gears.
 

jm@ReischePerf

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The clutch setup on this car is designed for the TOB to rest lightly on the PP... not ideal, but it is what it is.
 

trmin8ter03

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You are absolutely right Jmproductions. Ill be the first to say, I am an idiot. DO NOT PUT SLACK ON YOUR CLUTCH CABLE!!! I was completely wrong, there isnt a retainer of any kind on the clutch fork that holds the keeps the cable from coming off. It uses tension to keep it on the fork. Today when i went to take off from my driveway I pressed the clutch to start the car. Thats when the cable came off the fork. At first i thought i snaped the cable but after jacking the car up and taking a look, it came off the fork. Learned that the hard way luckily i wasnt in town where i would of been stranded. So F#$K the tob it better hold up, I tightend everything back up.
 

crunkstang1214

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I should have done this a long time ago. It was very easy, i did not take out the seat and i did mine and my dads mach 1 in about 30 min. I used my dremel to cut the metal. I can see the trouble someone would have to try and bend that. car shifts so much better at high rpms. Thanks
 

mu22stang

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1-click and my Terminator can power shift, thank God or (jmproductions). One question: This is the closest I could find to the answer I'm looking for, but I need more info concerning the "auto-adjust"...

Yes that is the problem, the auto-adjuster does not keep enough tension on the cable once the clutch ages and/or the cable stretches over time; that is the whole point of this mod!

Does this still function as before? Before the mod, my "auto-adjust" didn't click, it just provided resistance, jumped up about a 1/2 a centimeter, and then it was reset. How will this function with the mod in place? Will it modify the tension and engagement point?
 

da2k17

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im not sure whats going on with mine. i cut the piece and am trying to adjust it by pushing up and it doesnt want to move. i feel like im pushing pretty hard and no clicks. the two pieces meet towards the end of the curved piece, maybe only 3/4'' left, idn if that makes a difference. should i push harder?
 

jm@ReischePerf

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If you have to apply a lot of pressure then the cable is already pretty tight, you could try to push harder and see if you can get one click.
 

da2k17

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i got one click. ill be taking it out later and will let you know how it works.
 

jm@ReischePerf

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guys either bent or dremmeled off the metal plate that gets in the way, I wanna drill mine out, is that OK if I need to replace a cable or even the stock plastic quadrant for some reason in the future?
I'm not really sure how you could use a drill to take it down, plus you need to be careful of the switch behind the plate. As far as replacing the cable it shouldn't matter. If you do the mod you really won't need to put in an aftermarket quadrant because it will be more or less fully adjustable. However if you install an aftermarket clutch later you may need the LDC freeplay spring.
 

kennys2003

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So the cliff notes are (please verify):

1. Use a dremel or bend the metal bracket to allow the pieces to not contact each other.

2. Don't over tighten "click too many times" the clutch cable/adjuster

3. Make sure the clutch pedal switch still works

4. it should work with a firewall adjuster/quick release quadrant if needed.

I wanted to check before I got under there and took care of business
 

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