How to avoid air lock in the IC line?

[sweetlou1182]

It started last summer where my blower heated up big-time in which I needed to burp the IC lines to get the coolant flowing.

I put a new pump in last summer, tested it the other day to make sure it is getting power and ground. I thought maybe the lines were getting kinked so I ran new ones when I installed my Moroso tanks.

Issue still happening. I’m wondering how I can get rid of this issue once and for all? It is a PITA to have to clear the lines regularly. Just wanna drive it without heat soaking every other trip!

any help would be great! Thanks!

 

[Robert M]

It started last summer where my blower heated up big-time in which I needed to burp the IC lines to get the coolant flowing.

I put a new pump in last summer, tested it the other day to make sure it is getting power and ground. I thought maybe the lines were getting kinked so I ran new ones when I installed my Moroso tanks.

Issue still happening. I’m wondering how I can get rid of this issue once and for all? It is a PITA to have to clear the lines regularly. Just wanna drive it without heat soaking every other trip!

any help would be great! Thanks!

I completely flushed my SC cooling system by first disconnecting the hose on the outlet side of the IC and putting a turndown hose at that point, pointing into a large Ziploc bag wrapped in towels so it does not get torn by anything in the fan blade area. I then capped off the inlet/upper nipple on the SC reservoir. From that point I used a shopvac on the blower side to blow all coolant out of the system, this completely emptied the HE, IC reservoir and lines. I then put some fresh/clean distilled water in the reservoir and blew it into the system being careful to keep an good amount of water in the reservoir, so there were no air pockets. Once I had clean water coming out of the hose into the Ziploc bag, I knew the system was flushed and had no air in it. I flushed the system for a second time and then blew all of the water out and replaced with the proper coolant using this same procedure. During this process the Ziploc bag will also need to be watched, and emptied so that it does not overflow and make a mess.

Once I blew the new coolant into and through the system, there was no air, I have not had any issues and I would use this method anytime I need to fully flush my SC cooling system.

R

 

[Robert M]

^^^^One other tip when using the shopvac and blowing the coolant into and through the IC system.........I did not mention that I used the screw cap hole to insert the shopvac hose (since the upper reservoir nipple was capped off) and I also used a towel around the vac hose to somewhat seal it to that opening so the blower pressure would force the coolant through the system. The coolant does not blow through fast, but it is steady and easy to monitor the reservoir level so no air gets into the system.

R

 

[CobraSam]

I just finished up an engine rebuild. I just simply added coolant and jumped the relays to cycle the pump. I did this maybe 3-4 times until the coolant level was correct. No issues. I also had the car at an incline while I was filling engine coolant as well.
Maybe I got lucky?? I would think this would work the same in a GT 500, but maybe not. Im sure the relay trick is common knowledge amongst members here. I’m new to mod motors so all of this is great learning. Best of luck!

 

[Catmonkey]

Are you running the pump in the stock location? Since air will rise to the highest point, that's where the pump impeller is located. The impeller has a hard time moving air, so squeezing the lower hoses may get it primed, if you jump the relay and the pump is running. Best way to remove that air is to loosen the inlet hose just enough for any air to escape and slip the hose back on when coolant starts coming out. The only time you will encounter that is when you drain and refill the system. You should be able to do that by just removing the radiator support cover.

 

[Robert M]

Are you running the pump in the stock location? Since air will rise to the highest point, that's where the pump impeller is located. The impeller has a hard time moving air, so squeezing the lower hoses may get it primed, if you jump the relay and the pump is running. Best way to remove that air is to loosen the inlet hose just enough for any air to escape and slip the hose back on when coolant starts coming out. The only time you will encounter that is when you drain and refill the system. You should be able to do that by just removing the radiator support cover.

^^^^To add to this, I have read in multiple places that the oem Bosch pump, and the Davies Craig replacement are not self priming, so that is the reason why many times they need a little help to get the fluid flow going if air gets in the system.

R