How To: MMR Billet Oil Pump Gear's Install. **A FEW PICS**
- Thread starter Blazer707@TBR
- Start date
I have a Paxton kit sitting here too. Thinking about doing this now. I have a 2011 M6 but was built late 2010. One of the the first batches so I'm worried mine will blow. My car only has 20,000 miles on it though.
+1 on the Sticky request....
I got my MMR gears directly from MMR when they had a promo for $50 off. Im sure beefcake could get you them for a good price since he sells MMR.
One of the best instructional posts I've seen in years! DEFINITELY NEEDS STICKY.
stickystickysticky
Guys, this is already a sticky in the "How To" section.
Great write up as well.
Great write up as well.
i assume it would be a great time to do cams if we were wanting to? how much more labor intensive would it be? i'm more concerned about properly setting the timing.
To add cams to this repair i would say no more then 3-4 hours.
@Blazer707@TBR I know others have said how great this thread is - and I wanted to add to that!
I pulled all the content and made myself a PDF to go with my supercharger install.
One question I have - I ordered all the seals and the Ford Slimeacone and all the stuff for re-assembly... but the bottom of the timing cover where it sits on the oil pan... what gasket is there? Is that part of the oil pan gasket? If so - is there anything special to do when removing the cover to preserve that section of gasket so it won't develop a leak after reassembly?
Thanks!
I pulled all the content and made myself a PDF to go with my supercharger install.
One question I have - I ordered all the seals and the Ford Slimeacone and all the stuff for re-assembly... but the bottom of the timing cover where it sits on the oil pan... what gasket is there? Is that part of the oil pan gasket? If so - is there anything special to do when removing the cover to preserve that section of gasket so it won't develop a leak after reassembly?
Thanks!
Just remove the silicone on the 2 sides of the oil pan gasket and re apply the silicone. I have not had one leak from the oil pan gasket from re using it.
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Sweet thanks! And no worries about the removal of the cover against that seal? It doesn't try to stick and tear?
No it will just break the silicone, gasket will be fine. If you need to during install just shoot me a message.
Installed the RH Timing chain but it appears to be a lot of slack. A good 1/4-1/2” between the RH timing guide, not the tensioner guide. Is this normal? Any ideas what it could be if not.
If I rotate the crankshaft it will be come tight then same amount of looseness. It almost seems like the chain should be a link down.
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If I rotate the crankshaft it will be come tight then same amount of looseness. It almost seems like the chain should be a link down.
Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app
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It appears the slack is normal when reinstalling the chain and will be taken out when the engine cranks over and the oil pressure is brought to the tensioner.
Team Beefcake Racing and Finish Line Performance helped me to determine if the issue was normal or not. Huge thanks to these guys!
Here is what they said:
"As long as your dark color links are lined up with the timing marks, then the chains are installed correctly. As for the slack, 1st, ALWAYS turn the engine over in clockwise manner. If it is turned backwards it can break the tensioner's,
And it can show slack on the drive side of the chain (per your picture).
2nd, make sure that the tensioner's ratchet mechanisms are not broke, letting the tensioner's to compress to much.
With that being said, if the tensioner's are not damaged, and your links are lined up correctly, You should be fine. The chains will tension properly when the engine is started and the tensioner's get oil pressure."
Once again Thanks to Team Beefcake Racing and Finish Line Performance!
Team Beefcake Racing and Finish Line Performance helped me to determine if the issue was normal or not. Huge thanks to these guys!
Here is what they said:
"As long as your dark color links are lined up with the timing marks, then the chains are installed correctly. As for the slack, 1st, ALWAYS turn the engine over in clockwise manner. If it is turned backwards it can break the tensioner's,
And it can show slack on the drive side of the chain (per your picture).
2nd, make sure that the tensioner's ratchet mechanisms are not broke, letting the tensioner's to compress to much.
With that being said, if the tensioner's are not damaged, and your links are lined up correctly, You should be fine. The chains will tension properly when the engine is started and the tensioner's get oil pressure."
Once again Thanks to Team Beefcake Racing and Finish Line Performance!
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