I just got a 04 L and it has a few mods, C&L intake. It looks like it has a crank pulley its silver.. But how do i tell if the blower pulley has been changed? Has a new gatorback belt. I need to figure this out.
How to tell?
- Thread starter M.O.E
- Start date
I am not for sure on the sizes but if you measure the pulley someone on here can tell you what size it is. Good luck
just measure the diameter of the lower pulley....
stock pulley is caged and has three mounting arms that attach to the Timing cover and a solid dampening pulley.
aftermarket are typically two peice design, yet there are some one peice designs, but both have no cage asssembly that hold it in place. They are held to the crank pulley via three bolts in the center.
stock pulley is caged and has three mounting arms that attach to the Timing cover and a solid dampening pulley.
aftermarket are typically two peice design, yet there are some one peice designs, but both have no cage asssembly that hold it in place. They are held to the crank pulley via three bolts in the center.
You deff have a lower pulley if its silver but if you have an Eaton supercharger you prob dont have an upper pulley........most of us have kept them stock
^^ That why i'm asking. I whouldn't need a tune for just a crank pulley and a Intake right?? The pulley on the eaton is black with a screw in the middle looks to be stock. Can some post a pic of the eaton pulley?
Edit: After looking at the link for lower pulley sizes. Is the crank pulley what changes how many pounds of boost you're pushing?
Edit: After looking at the link for lower pulley sizes. Is the crank pulley what changes how many pounds of boost you're pushing?
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if the increase in boost via either the upper or lower pulley is enough you better have a tune for it.....
Getting a tune for any increase in boost will ensure that you get the most out of it and safely
Getting a tune for any increase in boost will ensure that you get the most out of it and safely
This may be the reson why i have a rough idle and a little sputter leaving a stop light normal (not geting on it) I cleaned the MAF and that helped a little.
So i guess now i need to get a dyno tune?
So i guess now i need to get a dyno tune?
so you have no handheld tuning device
is a chip installed...
if not...then you prob been running lean and burnt up some plugs a little
I would not be gettin on it until yuou figure out what you have and if you have all the right things in place to support what you have on it...
You dont want to join the Vented Block Club, and a dealership wont warranty a popped motor from it being modded.
is a chip installed...
if not...then you prob been running lean and burnt up some plugs a little
I would not be gettin on it until yuou figure out what you have and if you have all the right things in place to support what you have on it...
You dont want to join the Vented Block Club, and a dealership wont warranty a popped motor from it being modded.
bgstew6 said:
No tuning device that i know of. I just bought it on the 4th, tomorrow it goes in the dealer for the rough idle.. Man i'm lost to what is done to this truck :??: It runs strong when i get on it. But now i Wont be opening it up till i find out what all is done!
I bought it from the dealer i'm taking it to tomorrow. they know its moded my friend is the one that sold it to me.. Either way sound's like you're telling me to get a dyno tune or a handheld tuner? Before geting on it anymore right?
Until you are able to figure out exactly what you stepped in I would agree that you should take it easy before you find yourself in a bad way. This is the place for answers, just ask. Also, pics may help us help you. Snap some shots of the engine bay and post them so we can look for after market items.
BTW... If I were you I'd kick my buddy in the junk for placing his best interest (and commission) above my own welfare.
BTW... If I were you I'd kick my buddy in the junk for placing his best interest (and commission) above my own welfare.
M.O.E said:
A hand-held is necessary for tuning purposes. When purchased they contain "canned tunes" which are general to Lightnings with specific mods (i.e. 4# pulley, 6# pulley, exhaust, etc.). "Canned tunes" ARE NOT specific to your truck. Due to this they allow your truck to operate more "safe" than without the tune, however, the best way to ensure your truck is running up to its potential SAFELY is to shell-out the money for a dyno tune from a reputable tuner.
Do your research on tuners. Again, this is the place to find out if there are any highly recommended Lightning tuners in your area. If not, it may be in your best interest to drive the distance to someone you can trust. Personally, I never have and never will use a canned tune. Most people who use them have done so with no issues... I prefer to optimize the money I have invested in mods and know exactly what's going on with my tune.
M.O.E said:
Pulley ratio is what dictates boost PSI. For example, stock pulley diameters are 2.93" for the upper and 7.50" for the lower. 7.5"/2.93" = 2.55 ratio (the upper pulley makes 2.55 rotations for every one rotation of the lower pulley).
More boost can be achieved by:
-Retaining the stock upper and using a larger lower pulley (EX. 9.00"/2.93" = 3.07 ratio).
-Reatining the stock lower and using a smaller upper (EX. 7.50"/2.75" = 2.72 ratio).
-Using a smaller upper in conjuction with a larger upper (EX. 8.0"/2.75" = 2.90 ratio).
Basically, the pulley ratio number indicates the number of rotations the upper pulley makes in the time it takes for the lower pulley to make one revolution... the higher that ratio, the faster the supercharger is spinning, and ultimately the more boost.
Now to REALLY mind f*ck you... boost is simply a measure of pressure. Boost is affected by numerous variables and is not a constant. Such factors as air density and mods can result in higher/lower PSI reading. You could take your truck at sea level and see 14 PSI of boost... then with the exact same set-up go to Denver and see 12 PSI of boost (due to thinner air density). The addition of headers or other exhaust components which are less restrictive may cause you to see less boost PSI since they are more free flowing and result in less back-pressure. Also, in cooler temperatures you will most definately see higher boost PSI due to more dense air than in hot weather.
Clear as mud :dw: :??: :dw: ? I know this is a lot of info and your thinking :fm: WTF!!!??? :cuss: :cuss: .
Here's a pic of a an OEM upper pulley... not the best, but may help out. Should be lipped with no holes machined through it and a plastic cap in the center (which may be marked with a grease pen).
Aight i just checked my lower pulley it's 8.50 = 4lb. Now i need to figure out if has a tune already or get a tune :shrug: And i notice it has magnaflow exhaust, bilstin shocks (do these shocks come stock from svt?)
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Front: Short-and long-arm type, coil springs, tubular gas-charged Bilstein shock absorbers, 31mm solid stabilizer bar
Rear: Solid axle, staggered gas-charged Bilstein™ shock absorbers, five-leaf springs, 23mm solid stabilizer bar
2004 Lightning Spec Sheet
Rear: Solid axle, staggered gas-charged Bilstein™ shock absorbers, five-leaf springs, 23mm solid stabilizer bar
2004 Lightning Spec Sheet
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