How well is your alternator performing?

SCGallo2

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One year ago, my original OEM alternator completely failed after nearly 10 years of hard use. I was three hours away from home in Ocean City, MD, and the only alternator I could get my hands on was a remanufactured AC Delco unit from Advance Auto Parts... sacrilegious I know, but better than being towed. A couple of SVTP and MACA brethren and I swapped it out, and it was able to sustain vital engine function while charging my battery. On my drive home, at steady highway speed, I monitored battery voltage on my AeroForce Interceptor, and I noticed the alternator’s voltage regulator doing a crappy job of regulating voltage. Battery voltage would briefly spike up to 15.7 volts and seconds later drop to as low as 13.3 volts, but rarely would it settle around 14.5 volts which is what I would expect from a new alternator. Within one week of being home and uncomfortable with poor voltage regulation, I dropped by my local Ford dealer and ordered a new OEM alternator. I removed the AC Delco unit and installed the new remanufactured OEM alternator. I actively monitored battery voltage, and everything appeared normal again. In the Fall, I decided that it would be a good idea to capture a good datalog to see how well everything was performing. To my surprise, battery voltage dropped under WOT and my fuel system started to lean out early. I never got a battery light or “check charging system” warning. This situation was very repeatable, so I sent a datalog to JDM and they confirmed that low voltage at the fuel pumps was most likely causing the lean situation since my previous Dyno tuning logs showed steady fuel delivery up to 6600 rpm, where my rpm limiter was set. On JDM’s recommendation, I installed a PA Performance 130A alternator with 10% underdrive pulley and premium wiring kit. Alternator voltage regulation was tight once again at about 14.7 volts from idle to redline, but it was unsafe to go WOT due to cold temps and poor traction. Last week, outside air temps were finally high enough to have full traction for a third gear pull to datalog. Both datalog graphics below show battery voltage, rpm, and AFR. With the new remanufactured OEM alternator, you can see the alternator stop charging and AFR starts to lean out at about 5800 rpm, and I lift at 6300rpm. My AFR got uncomfortably high but not critically high at that rpm; I run a slightly rich AFR to keep my OEM cats alive at my power level. Left unchecked, this could have turned out badly. With the new PA Performance alternator, AFR stays constant through 6100 rpm, and I confirmed it with another pull to 6200 rpm. My advice to anyone demanding maximum performance from their vehicle is to datalog critical parameters at least once a year to make sure everything is functioning properly. I usually capture a datalog after my Spring maintenance is complete and I have filled up with a fresh tank of 93 octane. If all looks good, I let her eat!

Battery voltage comparsion.jpg
 

50stangpower

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Good advice. Glad it's working out. Wish I could make it to Oc this spring and cruise. Maybe fall for us. Car has had alot of changes again!
 

devilish64

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Was just going to post about this.... I have had a PA PERFORMANCE 200 amp alternator for about 6-8months and as of recently I have been getting warning lights for "check traction control"and "check charging systrm"..... i have been through several alternators now so i figured it was low voltage but it was actually charging up to 15.7 volts at some points..... never low voltage but it certainly didn't stay in the 14 volt area. I might have to contact PA and see what they say.
 

SCGallo2

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Good advice. Glad it's working out. Wish I could make it to Oc this spring and cruise. Maybe fall for us. Car has had alot of changes again!

Thanks again Brother! Going corn, eh? I'm sure we'll meet up at some point... I'm always willing to travel!

Was just going to post about this.... I have had a PA PERFORMANCE 200 amp alternator for about 6-8months and as of recently I have been getting warning lights for "check traction control"and "check charging systrm"..... i have been through several alternators now so i figured it was low voltage but it was actually charging up to 15.7 volts at some points..... never low voltage but it certainly didn't stay in the 14 volt area. I might have to contact PA and see what they say.

Interesting... though I can confirm that my battery voltage stays constant, in cooler weather (<50*F) I get an intermittent "check traction control" warning but the system checks "OK" when tested. Once my car warms up, it doesn't come back. In warmer weather (>65*F) I never get the warning. Thought I damaged a wheel speed sensor installing suspension mods over the winter, so I changed all four sensors but still get the warning in cooler weather. Until now, I thought it was just a resistance thing in the system, but it did start after I installed my PA Performance alternator. I turn traction control OFF when I drive, so this issue alone doesn't really concern me too much. The "check charging system" warning you are getting would concern me.
 

me32

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Ive been through 3 stock Oem alts. Finally had it with the OEM alt and went with a nations 270XP alt. Did the big 3 wire upgrade like it said too. I get a good 14.7volt now at the Alt and the battery. Ive had it for 4 years years still running strong.
 

fullboogie

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Ive been through 3 stock Oem alts. Finally had it with the OEM alt and went with a nations 270XP alt. Did the big 3 wire upgrade like it said too. I get a good 14.7volt now at the Alt and the battery. Ive had it for 4 years years still running strong.

Just did the Nations about 6 weeks ago myself. It's bad enough changing the alternator on this engine, but unwrapping/removing/replacing those wires took even longer. What a terrible job. But hopefully it's set for life at this point.
 

StangsfeverFOX

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I love my mechman, never any problems , can’t use it anymore as I’m going with the bps single belt setup. So it’s sittin here
 

me32

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Just did the Nations about 6 weeks ago myself. It's bad enough changing the alternator on this engine, but unwrapping/removing/replacing those wires took even longer. What a terrible job. But hopefully it's set for life at this point.

Lol i know what you mean. I actually kept the stock wire and had to slightly drill the ring bigger to resuse on the new alt. Then added the 0 gauge too it. The quality of the new alt was so much better than stock.
 

Wingrider

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Are there any docs or vid's of what needs to be done for the "3 wire upgrade" ? I'm thinking I'll need a BAP (says my tuner) and I'm thinking with 1050's my 7 year old alternator could be a future fail point sooner than expected.
 

GNBRETT

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jus bought new Boss 302 one with a new upgraded wire. figured it would be a good idea since I'm gonna be running some amps and a subwoofer. yea it will be heavier don't give a shit I will still put bus lengths on them modified ZL1's... lol
 

StangsfeverFOX

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Are there any docs or vid's of what needs to be done for the "3 wire upgrade" ? I'm thinking I'll need a BAP (says my tuner) and I'm thinking with 1050's my 7 year old alternator could be a future fail point sooner than expected.
Let me know if your looking for a mechman elite , i have one I’m selling
 

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