I/C pump relay clicking and car wouldn't start

[Micah]

So yesterday the car would not start. When the key is in the on position, the I/C relay continuously clicks once a second(normal lights on dash). When trying to start it, there is a rapid clicking from somewhere, it doesn't crank, and the theft light flashes quickly. I released the key and only the theft light is flashing, no other lights. Just to rule it out, I checked the battery and it's good. I replaced the I/C relay and the car starts fine but the relay still continuously clicks when the key is in the on position. Pretty sure the relay will go out again.

I was told by a shop recently that the I/C pump seemed to be on it's way out, they had to tap it. I have a VMP pump ready to go in. But I don't know why a bad relay or pump would cause the car not to start.

Thanks!

 

[01yellercobra]

IIRC that relay also does something with the fuel pumps. One time I went to jump the intercooler and touched the wrong pin and a jet of fuel almost hit my buddy in the face. The port in the rail for my gauge was open. We were both surprised at that one.

On a side note, twin 450 pumps make for a really cool fountain effect.

 

[P49Y-CY]

could it be the clicking you're hearing is coming from the ccrm?

the ccrm is right behind that intercooler relay in the fenderwell

 

[Micah]

could it be the clicking you're hearing is coming from the ccrm?

the ccrm is right behind that intercooler relay in the fenderwell

No. I verified that it was the relay by pulling it. Then turned the key again and didn't hear it.

IIRC that relay also does something with the fuel pumps. One time I went to jump the intercooler and touched the wrong pin and a jet of fuel almost hit my buddy in the face. The port in the rail for my gauge was open. We were both surprised at that one.

On a side note, twin 450 pumps make for a really cool fountain effect.

If it also does something with the fuel pumps, could the BAP be causing this? It was recently installed.

 

[DSG2003Mach1]

how did you verify the battery? You can have proper voltage but not enough amps if it's got a failed cell(s)

 

[Micah]

how did you verify the battery? You can have proper voltage but not enough amps if it's got a failed cell(s)

I check it with a multimeter and since it fired right up after replacing the relay, I didn't think it was the battery. I guess that doesn't completely rule it out, haha.

 

[DSG2003Mach1]

I check it with a multimeter and since it fired right up after replacing the relay, I didn't think it was the battery. I guess that doesn't completely rule it out, haha.

i read your post too quickly about it starting right up.

 

[hotcobra03]

Did you ever find problem?


Looking at wiring diagram on that relay.

4 pins.
Pin 30. White wire goes to fuse f1-19 10amp
Pin 87.orange with yellow tracer,goes to ic pump.
Pin 85,white with orange tracer,
Goes to pcm Pin 82.
Here the tmap sends signals to pcm Pin 10/37 to ground Pin 85 to turn pump on,
Pin 86 goes to red wire circuit 361 powered by inside car fuse box f2-2 20amp

Here some engine sensors are on red wire circuit 361

WD_Ford_306876 (1).pdf

Shared with Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

 

[Micah]

I did find the issue. I went ahead and replaced the CCRM and it turns out that's what was causing the I/C pump relay to continuously click. I'm guessing it's something minor since the car ran fine after replacing the relay the first time. But whatever the issue was, the CCRM just kept popping that relay. All other fuses and relays are good.