Jason
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I need advice from experienced tuners
- Thread starter jscanlon
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- ba5000 maf issues tuning
Jason
Where's the BOV placement in relation to the maf? Also, is there any hose from a pcv or anything placed close to the maf position? Does the car have Cams?
You could try something like this-
HoneyComb MAF Mass Air Meter Airflow Straightener- TREADSTONE PERFORMANCE
You may need to re-work the piping with something that works.
HoneyComb MAF Mass Air Meter Airflow Straightener- TREADSTONE PERFORMANCE
You may need to re-work the piping with something that works.
You have a maf signal revision.
You need a Bypass Valve not a Blow off Valve.
You have to vent in the athmosphere if hou are blow through or recirculate if draw through.
The valve must be far from the maf .
You need a Bypass Valve not a Blow off Valve.
You have to vent in the athmosphere if hou are blow through or recirculate if draw through.
The valve must be far from the maf .
Answers to your questions, still need help !
The BOV is 6" after the discharge of the head unit
There is nothing else between the IC and the TB except the maf and the IAC hose and that is 4" after the maf
Nope, no cams, all is stock except mufflers
You have a maf signal revision. What does this mean??
You need a Bypass Valve not a Blow off Valve. Why would I need a BPV, I am blow thru
You have to vent in the athmosphere if hou are blow through or recirculate if draw through. I am
The valve must be far from the maf . The BOV is as far from the maf as possible.
I appreciate the input everyone. Keep it coming. Does anyone know if I can send the BA5000 to Pro-M (I believe the manufacturer of the 5000 for SCT) and have them check it for proper operation?? I may have to call em and see. You'd think they could definetly do that? My piping is set up just like 90% of the other blow thru set ups I have seen(with similar components).
The BOV is 6" after the discharge of the head unit
There is nothing else between the IC and the TB except the maf and the IAC hose and that is 4" after the maf
Nope, no cams, all is stock except mufflers
You have a maf signal revision. What does this mean??
You need a Bypass Valve not a Blow off Valve. Why would I need a BPV, I am blow thru
You have to vent in the athmosphere if hou are blow through or recirculate if draw through. I am
The valve must be far from the maf . The BOV is as far from the maf as possible.
I appreciate the input everyone. Keep it coming. Does anyone know if I can send the BA5000 to Pro-M (I believe the manufacturer of the 5000 for SCT) and have them check it for proper operation?? I may have to call em and see. You'd think they could definetly do that? My piping is set up just like 90% of the other blow thru set ups I have seen(with similar components).
Also, is 120ish ad counts at idle and 210ish at 2500 rpm too low? There is 100% battery voltage at the power supply wire for the maf, I soldered all the connections, Not sure what to do from here other than sending the maf in to be checked.
120 AD counts at idle is fine. I don't think the MAF is bad.
Why don't you post up some pictures of the piping, MAF and BOV placement ect.
Unstable maf signal, help needed
Ok, It's at the shop so I will get some tomorrow(tues) when I'm at work and post em when I get home. I appreciate your help.
Ok, It's at the shop so I will get some tomorrow(tues) when I'm at work and post em when I get home. I appreciate your help.
Revision is back flow the air into the maf.
You need a by pass valve vented in the air because a blow off valve ( example: Greedy ) does not open under vacuum but the by pass yes . You want the valve open at idle to ot create back pressure on the impeller.
What do you mean by "far" from maf ?
Can you post picture of you piping ?
Todays updates and pics. Keep ideas comin guys,(& girls)
Ok, so here are some pics. In these pics I threw together a tempprary maf tube (had it in VMP's tube originally) to locate the maf closer to the TB allowing more straigt tube before it. Well that didnt help. So after work I replaced the whole IC to TB pipe with a completely straight piece and cut more room to go through the inner fender. That didnt help either. So I disconnected the IC to TB pipe just before the maf just to see what the signal would do, and that did not change much. There's less air so the fluctaution is slower but to the same degree.
I'm thinking of have the tuner send me a new tune for the factory maf just to see what happens. Another thoughtjust had is I dont think I ever disconnected the battery after the maf change. Not sure if that could cause fluctuation though. Let me know what you guys think. Pics below.
LeKiD, are you saying you think I need a bypass and a BOV will not work for my setup?? The BOV is just a few inches from the head unit discharge. Let me kow what you think LeKiD. Thanks everyone.
Ok, so here are some pics. In these pics I threw together a tempprary maf tube (had it in VMP's tube originally) to locate the maf closer to the TB allowing more straigt tube before it. Well that didnt help. So after work I replaced the whole IC to TB pipe with a completely straight piece and cut more room to go through the inner fender. That didnt help either. So I disconnected the IC to TB pipe just before the maf just to see what the signal would do, and that did not change much. There's less air so the fluctaution is slower but to the same degree.
I'm thinking of have the tuner send me a new tune for the factory maf just to see what happens. Another thoughtjust had is I dont think I ever disconnected the battery after the maf change. Not sure if that could cause fluctuation though. Let me know what you guys think. Pics below.
LeKiD, are you saying you think I need a bypass and a BOV will not work for my setup?? The BOV is just a few inches from the head unit discharge. Let me kow what you think LeKiD. Thanks everyone.
Personally, I don't have much experience with blow-through systems. Hopefully somone more knowledgeable will chime in.
The easiest and cheapest thing IMO to do would be to get a piece of screen (like window screen) and put it in the coupler before the MAF you have pictured. Log it again and see if it helps.
The easiest and cheapest thing IMO to do would be to get a piece of screen (like window screen) and put it in the coupler before the MAF you have pictured. Log it again and see if it helps.
Does your BOV blow at idle ? I guess NO . Seems to be a TURBO bov and stay closed at idle .
You will damage your blower . Take a mini-race bypass valve , this will bolt direct on the flange . You will loose the "pcchhh" sound but will clean the maf reading.
Edit: the place you install the flange is the best , close to the blower and far from the maf.
You will damage your blower . Take a mini-race bypass valve , this will bolt direct on the flange . You will loose the "pcchhh" sound but will clean the maf reading.
Edit: the place you install the flange is the best , close to the blower and far from the maf.
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wrong BOV? q?
Okay, that makes sense except that I have tried logging this with out the blower belt even on, so it was just running with out the blower and the maf reading fluctuation is the same.
Okay, that makes sense except that I have tried logging this with out the blower belt even on, so it was just running with out the blower and the maf reading fluctuation is the same.
Look at the rubber hose that plug near the maf . Is it possible to flip the maf tube and flip the sensor ? Thos will give you a few inch between the IAC return hose and the maf.
Yeah I have tried that, Had no effect. I had the tuner send me a tune for the stock maf. I will try that this afternoon and see what the signal looks like
Do you have make some test ?
Your setup looks good similar to the blow through setup i ran with my F1. Did you try clocking the Maf pipe at different angle's? As mentioned earlier with flipping the tube. I dont believe that is possible since this would place the maf backwards as the bolt holes for it are offset and allow only way bolt down direction. The maf isnt bottoming out inside the pipe is it or twisted a little is it? Have you double checked all the wiring, that all the connections are 100% and not maybe loose? Did you soldier the connections? Just for checking purpose, grab some needle nose pliers and slowly crimp closed the hose for the IAC enough to leave the car running, but also watching if the signal concern changes.
My BOV was also placed after the blower as well.
Here's my setup for reference
My BOV was also placed after the blower as well.
Here's my setup for reference
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from what i see from the pictures all looks correct. the only thing that would concern me would be how close your iac in located to the maf. next i would fire it up and at idle see if the bov is pushing air out and it doesnt have a pulsation. it should stay wide open at idle. And also a 3" intercooler pipe is smaller then the vmp 3" houseing. you can give me a call if you need any help 912-547-9384 my name is Randy
Ok so I figured it out. I had a number of things going on. First I didnt realize it but the bov wasnt staying all the way open when idleing or at steady rpm and was causing compressor surging and screwing up the signal. I also had a couple vacuum leaks. Everything is much better now. Currently I have it tuned pretty good up to 5300rpm when the pump hits 99.9% duty cycle. Its a 255lph high flow perf pump. I did a power wiring upgrade for the fpdm and fp. I'm gonna try hole sawing some holes in the pump basket to see if that helps. Any other ideas other than dual cobra setup or bap?
The other issue is the bov, even at full open doesnt seem to allow enough air evacuation and is still causing the blower to surge after letting off at above 3000rpm or so or when slowing down in gear as the engine winds down it also does it. Instead of a steady rush of air, I am getting a fluttering air sound and the bov diaphram is staying full open. Do I just need another or a larger bov to fix this? Also, this compressor surge is pretty bad for the blower correct?
The other issue is the bov, even at full open doesnt seem to allow enough air evacuation and is still causing the blower to surge after letting off at above 3000rpm or so or when slowing down in gear as the engine winds down it also does it. Instead of a steady rush of air, I am getting a fluttering air sound and the bov diaphram is staying full open. Do I just need another or a larger bov to fix this? Also, this compressor surge is pretty bad for the blower correct?
what style blow off is it and size ? but you are correct sounds to me like the blow off isnt big enough.what hp are you shooting for because i 255 depending on which one you have will take you to 500hp or so. Or upgrade the pump to a 340.
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